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Old 06-13-2012, 08:36 AM   #16
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3-way switch - powered switch in middle?


FYI people, if OP is on 2011 NEC:

404.2(C) Switches Controlling Lighting Loads. Where switches
control lighting loads supplied by a grounded general purpose
branch circuit, the grounded circuit conductor for the controlled
lighting circuit shall be provided at the switch location.

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Old 06-13-2012, 08:41 AM   #17
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3-way switch - powered switch in middle?


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I thought something looked funny, but the coffee hadn't kicked in yet.
yeah, it took me a few minutes to really look at what goose drew and realize what it was.
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Old 06-13-2012, 08:49 AM   #18
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3-way switch - powered switch in middle?


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yeah, it took me a few minutes to really look at what goose drew and realize what it was.
I saw it too but kind if figured out what was implied.
Shouldn't the white and red wired land on the same respective traveler screws though?
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Old 06-13-2012, 09:55 AM   #19
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3-way switch - powered switch in middle?


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yeah, it took me a few minutes to really look at what goose drew and realize what it was.
Hey Derrik I just tryed to PM you but it's not sending. I don't know what's the problem with my iphone, but please PM me when you get a chance, thank you
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Old 06-13-2012, 10:03 AM   #20
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3-way switch - powered switch in middle?


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Originally Posted by danpik View Post
I saw it too but kind if figured out what was implied.
Shouldn't the white and red wired land on the same respective traveler screws though?
Assuming you are referring to a dead end 3 way this is how you would wire it.



It makes no difference how you land the black or red wires on the non common terminals. White has to be re-identified. 2011 now requires a neutral at the remote switch, you could use 14/4 or 14-2-2 or #12 if it is a 20A circuit
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Old 06-13-2012, 10:05 AM   #21
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3-way switch - powered switch in middle?


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Hey Derrik I just tryed to PM you but it's not sending. I don't know what's the problem with my iphone, but please PM me when you get a chance, thank you
Is this Sunny B? You have PM options disabled in user options.
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Old 06-13-2012, 11:00 AM   #22
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3-way switch - powered switch in middle?


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Is this Sunny B? You have PM options disabled in user options.
Yes this is Sunny B. I can't login to my old account so I had to create a new profile.
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Old 06-13-2012, 11:04 AM   #23
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3-way switch - powered switch in middle?


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Originally Posted by Code05 View Post
FYI people, if OP is on 2011 NEC:

404.2(C) Switches Controlling Lighting Loads. Where switches
control lighting loads supplied by a grounded general purpose
branch circuit, the grounded circuit conductor for the controlled
lighting circuit shall be provided at the switch location.

Does this code mean neutral at "the" one (any) switch location, or at ALL switch locations, within the multi-switch circuit?

If neutral is required at ALL switch locations, then, in this case, an additional insulated conductor is required at the far-end 3-way, right? Which leads to the question of proper cabling method (14/4 or 14/2/2) for that run, unless [14/2 + 14/2] is ok?
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Old 06-13-2012, 11:25 AM   #24
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3-way switch - powered switch in middle?


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Yes this is Sunny B. I can't login to my old account so I had to create a new profile.
Sunny, just go to USER CP at top left, click on it.

Then go to EDIT OPTIONS in the list on the left.

Third section down will have a box that says Enable PM.

Do this and then PM a mod and explain, he/she will give you access to your old account. Here is your old profile.

http://www.diychatroom.com/members/sunny-b--125877/
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Old 06-13-2012, 11:34 AM   #25
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3-way switch - powered switch in middle?


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Originally Posted by sixspeed View Post
Does this code mean neutral at "the" one (any) switch location, or at ALL switch locations, within the multi-switch circuit?
I believe it means all. It was added so people could not use the ground as a neutral for electronic switches. Blame UL for listing the devices in the first place.

Informational Note: The provision for a (future) grounded
conductor is to complete a circuit path for electronic lighting
control devices.

Quote:
If neutral is required at ALL switch locations, then, in this case, an additional insulated conductor is required at the far-end 3-way, right?
Insulated and identified/marked per 200.6

Quote:
Which leads to the question of proper cabling method (14/4 or 14/2/2) for that run, unless [14/2 + 14/2] is ok?
I have heard of people doing this and to be honest, I am not sure if it is legal or not. Seems to conflict with 300.3(B).
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Old 06-13-2012, 11:39 AM   #26
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3-way switch - powered switch in middle?


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Originally Posted by Code05

Sunny, just go to USER CP at top left, click on it.

Then go to EDIT OPTIONS in the list on the left.

Third section down will have a box that says Enable PM.

Do this and then PM a mod and explain, he/she will give you access to your old account. Here is your old profile.

http://www.diychatroom.com/members/sunny-b--125877/
I don't see the User PC option. Where is it located? Which top left corner?
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Old 06-13-2012, 11:42 AM   #27
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3-way switch - powered switch in middle?


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I don't see the User PC option. Where is it located? Which top left corner?
Just email me Tmattry@yahoo
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Old 06-13-2012, 12:23 PM   #28
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3-way switch - powered switch in middle?


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I don't see the User PC option. Where is it located? Which top left corner?
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Old 06-13-2012, 12:29 PM   #29
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3-way switch - powered switch in middle?


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Just email me Tmattry@yahoo
Email sent.
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Old 06-13-2012, 02:20 PM   #30
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3-way switch - powered switch in middle?


I accept my morning flogging.
I will never attempt to draw at 2:00 AM. I grabbed the wrong switch from the library (yep it was a normal switch).

How about this (including properly marking the white wire)
3-way switch - powered switch in middle?-3way.jpg

[quote=joed;942397]How do you figure this is not what he has. this is what he said in the original post.quote]
The OP said " SW->SW->Light and power going into the middle switch." your diagram had power going to the light. At least you didn't electricute him like I did.

We need a good set of 3 way and 4 way switch drawings that DIY laymen can understand cause we get this question all the time. I like them with real switches and plugs so I can visualize what is in front of me. I'm willing to pitch in a $50 Amazon certificate, if they are good. (I know that is about $3 and hour)

P.S. I know there is another site with similar drawings, which are now watermarked because too many people, including some on this forum, were using them without permission.

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