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Local Dimwit 01-17-2010 05:55 PM

3-way switch installation - TI070-3W Aube
I was previously helped in this thread a couple months ago and I'm here for similar advice. I was hoping someone could tell me how to hook up the wires on an Aube TI070-3W light switch I just bought. This is for my front porch lights and there are two switches controlling them, so I'm assuming this means it's a 3-way installation.

There are four wires that come out of the Aube switch; line (black), load (black), 3 way (yellow), and ground (green). The package also came with a small red jumper wire, not in the pictures below.

There are tons of wires coming out of the wall. The previous switch used two black wires (no labels for line or load on the wires nor the switch), a red wire, and a copper wire.

Can anyone tell me which wires should connect to which?

TI034-3W manual:

Picture 1:

Picture 2:

Picture 3:

codeone 01-17-2010 06:15 PM

You need to know which wire is your power wire. You also need to know where your power originates, so you will know how to wire the new timer. your other three way is going to be essentially a single pole switch when your done. Without knowing where your power comes from there is no way to know exactly. Your green wire goes to the bare copper for sure.

Local Dimwit 01-17-2010 06:23 PM

I'll break out the volt meter soon. I know that one black from the wall is line and the other is load, and that last time I did this the line was on the bottom (which I believe is not the standard), so I'll definitely test for which is which.

Line --> Line
Load --> Load
Green --> Copper's not as simple as the switch's yellow 3-way going to the red wire, is it? That'd be great if it was, but I've been told before that you can f up the switch by incorrectly hooking up to a red wire. To be 100% honest, I have no idea what a red wire even means.

codeone 01-17-2010 06:29 PM

1 Attachment(s)
On a normal 3-way you have a common that comes from the power, and a common that goes to the light. then you have what is called 2 travelers. This is so you can have 2 paths to make your circle (circuit) with. Then you have a neutral connection.:yes:

codeone 01-17-2010 06:34 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Heres another configuration you could have.

joed 01-17-2010 07:14 PM

You need to identify which wire was on the common before you removed the switch.
The link you provided has some very good drawings of how to connect the unit. You need to put a jumper on the other switch or replace it with a normal single pole switch

Local Dimwit 01-17-2010 10:25 PM

Whoa. :huh: There's a lot more to this than I was expecting. Thanks for the info.

How can I identify which was on the common? The instructions say to "identify and label the wire connected to the 'common' screw," but I don't know what a common screw is. None of the four wires from the wall appear to be coming from or going to anything special.

codeone 01-17-2010 10:30 PM

The one on the common was the one on the black screw.

Your picture is not that clear, however the cable that has the black and red together are the travelers, the black that was by itself is your common.

codeone 01-17-2010 10:38 PM

The common looks like it would be the one you have marked #1 if you havent moved them from their positions they were in when you took them off the switch.

Local Dimwit 01-18-2010 07:00 PM

Thank you codeone. The common is the 2nd black wire, that's the one that went to the black screw.

So, just to be sure:

Load --> Common (Black wire #2)
Ground --> Copper wire
Line --> Black wire #1
3-way --> Red wire

Does that look correct? Also, is the jumper wire necessary for the other switch? I'd be perfectly happy to never touch that switch again.

codeone 01-18-2010 08:48 PM

If that is the one you took off the common yes that looks correct. Yes you will need the jumper on the other switch or you could bypass it using one of the single diagrams on your cut sheet.

Local Dimwit 01-18-2010 08:58 PM


Originally Posted by codeone (Post 385365)
If that is the one you took off the common yes that looks correct. Yes you will need the jumper on the other switch or you could bypass it using one of the single diagrams on your cut sheet.

Sorry to keep harping away, but seriously, you're a lifesaver. I can't thank you enough.

I'm looking at the single diagram in the manual, and it doesn't say anything about a red wire. If I were to hook the following together:

Load --> Common (Black wire #2)
Ground --> Copper wire
Line --> Black wire #1
3-way --> Black wire #1 (Line, 3-way, Black wire #1 all in one nut)

... does that mean I can just tape up and tuck the red wire away and not worry about the other switch?

codeone 01-18-2010 09:11 PM

If you look at the 2 single switch diagrams you will notice the purple and black line on your timer are tied together. Then your black traveler and line on your other three way are jumpered together. If you do that you can insulate the red and on both ends and ignore it. your other switch will not work at all then, and if you ever wanted to put it back you could. Just mark your wires for where they are now for future restoration.

Local Dimwit 01-19-2010 08:26 PM

codeone, I can't thank you enough. It's in, it's working, and it looks fantastic. There is absolutely no way I could have done this without you. Thank you so much!!

:thumbup: :yes: :party: :biggrin: :scooter: :cowboy: :batman: :walkman:

For thread completeness purposes, I ended up using the jumper on the second switch, which was much easier than I expected. So if anyone comes across this in future Google searches, I used:

Switch #1:
Load --> Common (Black wire #2) (common wire can be identified by black screw on existing switch)
Ground --> Copper wire
Line --> Black wire #1
3-way --> Red wire

Switch #2:
No change, other than attaching red jumper wire to load and line (the two black wires).

codeone 01-19-2010 08:37 PM

COOL!GOOD JOB! :thumbsup:

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