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Old 09-16-2013, 08:15 AM   #1
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3 way switch


yeah, i know its been asked a million times. but i get nervous doing things i am not sure about.

so

is this a correct way to do it ?
http://www.wikihow.com/Wire-a-3-Way-Light-Switch

also. are 3 way dimmers good ? as in reliable.

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Old 09-16-2013, 08:55 AM   #2
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[QUOTE=Fix'n it;1242234
so... is this a correct way to do it ?[/QUOTE]
There are about 10 correct ways

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Old 09-16-2013, 09:23 AM   #3
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I usually run power to the first switch box, 2 wire cable from the second switch box to the light and a 3 wire cable between the switches. Run 4 wire cable if your code cycle requires a neutral at all switches.
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Old 09-16-2013, 09:24 AM   #4
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wow, no kidding, well then. how does a guy decide which one to use ?
i need something "bonehead proof".
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Old 09-16-2013, 09:25 AM   #5
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i don't have any 14/4. only 14/2 and 14/3
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Old 09-16-2013, 09:27 AM   #6
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oh. i am 2002 code.
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Old 09-16-2013, 09:41 AM   #7
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learning more.

i am going to be using "switch-fixture-switch''.
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Old 09-16-2013, 10:12 AM   #8
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learning even more. and i have an issue.

layout :
left switch. right switch with incoming power. light 14/2 comes down to the right switch.
i can't find a diagram for this. all i find is the power coming in the left switch. it can not come into the light in this app.
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Old 09-16-2013, 12:22 PM   #9
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Quote:
wow, no kidding, well then. how does a guy decide which one to use ?
I suspect most folks choose the correct method based upon minimization of electrical cable, or ease of access. If that is not a concern of yours, then use the one shown in the wiki.

Personally, I am a fan of having a neutral at each switch box as suggested by rjniles. If you want or need (may be code in your area) this, then the wiki would need updated to have a four-conductor cable between fixture and second switch.
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Old 09-16-2013, 04:33 PM   #10
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Quote:
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wow, no kidding, well then. how does a guy decide which one to use ?
i need something "bonehead proof".
How does one decide: a consideration is "box fill". Look at the boxes that you are using for capacity and see how many cables you plan on each box. Is the capacity large enough to meet code?

The reason I like my method is that it minimizes the number of wires in each box.

I really dislike bringing the travelers through the fixture box as it makes trouble shooting difficult.
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Old 09-18-2013, 08:57 PM   #11
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i found what i was looking for. if you guys see a problem, PLEASE speak up.
http://hometoys.com/htinews/feb98/ar...ngery/fig2.gif


box fill. doesn't matter. as i can easily put any box needed.
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Old 09-19-2013, 04:49 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fix'n it View Post
i found what i was looking for. if you guys see a problem, PLEASE speak up.
http://hometoys.com/htinews/feb98/ar...ngery/fig2.gif


box fill. doesn't matter. as i can easily put any box needed.
Electrically that diagram is fine but it shows a 3 wirecable with a red and 2 blacks. That cable does not exist: a 3 wire cable has a red, black and white.

Also it does not meet the 2011 NEC requirement to have a neutral in each switch box.
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Old 09-19-2013, 06:13 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rjniles View Post
I usually run power to the first switch box, 2 wire cable from the second switch box to the light and a 3 wire cable between the switches. Run 4 wire cable if your code cycle requires a neutral at all switches.
It's simpler if you just feed one 3-way, and take the load out of the other 3-way, this way you have a neutral at every switch box....
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Old 09-19-2013, 07:28 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rjniles View Post
Electrically that diagram is fine but it shows a 3 wirecable with a red and 2 blacks. That cable does not exist: a 3 wire cable has a red, black and white.

Also it does not meet the 2011 NEC requirement to have a neutral in each switch box.
thanx. that is probably just a typo. i can mark the white black if needed.

i am under nec 2002.

how would a neutral be wired in ?

basicly i need that configuration. or else i am running extra wires.

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