Hey guys, so I am helping a friend install some recessed lighting in a location where two ceiling lights were before in a hallway.
I will post a quick link here and could someone please tell me if this is the proper way to do it for the wires in place.
I keep getting a master/slave situation between the two switches. Or I get power to one light and not the other.
I tested to confirm that the 14/2 coming into the first junction box is the power feed. From this junction box I have two runs of 14/2 running through the ceiling to the other light/junction box. at both junction box locations there is 14/3 running to the respective switch at each end of the hallway. I have tested and marked each run of 14/2 between lights as not to cross wires.
Please please help me end this 3 way nightmare. here's the link to the diagram it's #7.
Trace your constant hot to the first 3 way .... is it connected to the dark colored common screw? Yes ... then is the switched hot at the other 3 way connected to the common screw? Your description sounds like you have the wrong wire (traveler) on the common screw.
BTW opt#7 is very unorthodox ... most electricians will not even consider wiring a 3 way like that.
Trace your constant hot to the first 3 way .... is it connected to the dark colored common screw? Yes ... then is the switched hot at the other 3 way connected to the common screw?
I did eliminate the master/slave scenario. My problem now is that only one light is working. If you look at the picture for option #7. I have everything hooked up exactly as shown I have checked and triple checked everything is as shown. All my connections have been checked, wires are twisted with pliers before marettes are twisted on. The black wires are connected to the common screws on each switch just like the diagram. Any other ideas?
** oh and I have tested that the light is working.
hey Stubbie thanks for the reply I will try tracing the constant hot to the 3 ways. The switches are old school ones and I have them connected just like in the diagram. I picked up some newer 3 way switches to try. And It's an older house so I had a hell of a time trying to figure out how they had it wired. I have everything done as show in option 7. Including the position of the wires on the switches.
Will keep you posted when I try in an hour or two.
Then check voltage at the non working fixture. If you have voltage by testing the hot wire to ground but not to neutral then you have an issue with the neutral (white wire). Basically determine where the voltage is not present. If it is present at the fixture then the fixture still will not work if the neutral is opened or broken. If you test hot to neutral at the fixture and get voltage then problem is with the fixture. If no voltage then problem with the neutral wire. If no voltage at the fixture then problem with a connection on the hot switched wire someplace or a break in the switched hot wire. So you just have to test things. Follow the logic of the circuit. If the light that is working is the farthest away from the 3 way that switches the switch leg to the lights then for some reason the circuit is not getting completed at the closest light to that 3 way switch. Check where voltage is and isn't this will lead to your solution of the problem.
I will try some testing like you said and let you know how it goes. If there is a problem with a neutral or one of the wires will i need to snake a new wire through or is it possible to wire it up differently with the amount of wire there.
Stubbie, Can't thank you enough. I should have pulled the tester out much sooner. It turned out there was a break in the hot switched wire where it was stapled to the joist. I was lucky that there was just enough wire to relocate the junction box and make things work. :thumbsup:
Always glad to hear when your able to solve the problem.... good job.
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