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Old 04-17-2012, 06:23 PM   #16
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220v plug differences


Thank you a7ecorsair. That makes it clearer.
It IS a 120/240v. I absolutely HATE instructions from idiots like this. EVERYWHERE it says 240v, then in one little spot, on one page, it says 120/240v.

So where in the specs do they mention the 6.5kW draw (other than that little box)???

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Old 04-17-2012, 06:28 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Speedy Petey View Post
Thank you a7ecorsair. That makes it clearer.
It IS a 120/240v. I absolutely HATE instructions from idiots like this. EVERYWHERE it says 240v, then in one little spot, on one page, it says 120/240v.

So where in the specs do they mention the 6.5kW draw (other than that little box)???
I feel your pain.
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Old 04-17-2012, 06:29 PM   #18
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If you can not install a new circuit for the MW, you had best return it and get a 120 volt model. Even then it will require a dedicated 120 volt circuit in the cabinet above the MW.
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Old 04-17-2012, 06:31 PM   #19
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The first link provided was to some sales site. I downloaded the installation PDF from GE.
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Old 04-17-2012, 07:10 PM   #20
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ktkelly, any further input?

If there is not a 30A-120/240V line for it, and as you say "there is absolutely no way to run new wiring" then your ONLY recourse is to return the micro and get the 120v model.

The dryer can use an older non-grounding circuit as described in a an earlier post.
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Old 04-17-2012, 07:45 PM   #21
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220v plug differences


There is currently a three prong 240v outlet in the location, as there was previously an earlier model of this same microwave in the same location.


I gather that it was a DIY install, and had the standard "dryer" cord in place of the newer four prong cord.

Don't know that for sure, but I do know that it was working before...


Since I do want this to be to code (so much in this pace was not), if I were able to pull an additional wire, would pulling a single 10ga for use as the neutral work?



The old unit (from 1999) went bad, shortly after I bought the place this past July, and I figured I'd rather have a new unit that has a warranty rather than have the old one repaired.


Repair comes with 90 day parts warranty. New comes with 10 year parts warranty (from supplier).


By the way. I am not a part of the 1%. Wish it were so. If it were, I'd have "my guy" do the work....

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Old 04-17-2012, 08:56 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ktkelly View Post
There is currently a three prong 240v outlet in the location, as there was previously an earlier model of this same microwave in the same location.


I gather that it was a DIY install, and had the standard "dryer" cord in place of the newer four prong cord.

Don't know that for sure, but I do know that it was working before...


Since I do want this to be to code (so much in this pace was not), if I were able to pull an additional wire, would pulling a single 10ga for use as the neutral work?



The old unit (from 1999) went bad, shortly after I bought the place this past July, and I figured I'd rather have a new unit that has a warranty rather than have the old one repaired.


Repair comes with 90 day parts warranty. New comes with 10 year parts warranty (from supplier).


By the way. I am not a part of the 1%. Wish it were so. If it were, I'd have "my guy" do the work....
Just a lame attempt at humor, no offense meant.
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Old 04-17-2012, 09:14 PM   #23
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Wasn't offended. Just hopeful...



Can't seem to win the stinkin' lottery, so I'll remain a part of the 99% (or less)....





As to the neutral and ground wire on these things, I think it's sort of funny, since both the neutral and the ground wire connect to the same buss bar in the panel.

One more of those deals where th code is ever changing....
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Old 04-17-2012, 09:37 PM   #24
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Quote:
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As to the neutral and ground wire on these things, I think it's sort of funny, since both the neutral and the ground wire connect to the same buss bar in the panel.

One more of those deals where th code is ever changing....
This is a very common misconception. The fact that they are connected to the same place in a main panel has nothing to do with that their purpose is outside the panel.
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Old 04-17-2012, 10:04 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by ktkelly View Post
There is currently a three prong 240v outlet in the location, as there was previously an earlier model of this same microwave in the same location.
I think you should turn off the breaker for this receptacle and then open up the box and see what is inside for wiring. You will need three insulated #10 conductors and one ground. There is a slim chance that there may be an unused conductor hiding in the box.
The old unit may have been straight 240 v but according to what we see in the installation guide, this unit requires a neutral for some 120 volt parts. Things like the blower, light, and touch panel power may use 120 volts and most likely the magnetron too. The only 240 could be the convection element.
What size breaker currently protects this circuit? It should be a two pole breaker.
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Old 04-18-2012, 12:04 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by a7ecorsair View Post
What size breaker currently protects this circuit? It should be a two pole breaker.
Currently on a 30amp double pole breaker.


I'll be back there next week, and will check pull the outlet just to be sure there's no other wire hiding out in the box unused....


Ya never know....
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Old 04-18-2012, 03:20 AM   #27
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220v plug differences


Ya know the funny thing when I was reading the 240 volt mircowave oven and I say Quoi ?? 30 amp circuit IMO that really don't make 100% sense due the wattage rating is simair over our European side and we only used legit 240 volt 16 amp circuit but our French code will say need 20 amp circuit anyway.

Now for that Mircowave useage that is something I don't see very often in state side espcally if wired up for 240 volts IIRC it was just standard 20 amp circuit sans netural in there. that was many years ago I think it was JennAir if I did remember the manufacter correct.

Merci,
Marc

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