220v in garage help.
 

Just got a compressor so i need about a 25amp 220v circuit in my garage.

My garage is detached by about 8 feet, but i dont see a panel anywhere.

The main house panel is close by, and if needed i would be okay just having the 220v there and moving the compressor the times i used it.

I am attaching a picture of my circuit box, any help please?

i dont see any room left, maybe im looking at it wrong?

Thanks in advance
-Victor


http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h2...3_233308-1.jpg
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h2...3_233319-1.jpg
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h2...523_233300.jpg

It doesn't look like you have any room left. But there are a few breakers that aren't marked....do you know what they are for? You also have a few 1/2 breakers, two circuits sharing the same breaker space. You may be able to do that in a couple of instances and free up a space for a double pole breaker. And is there any power in the garage now? Perhaps they just buried a wire for lighting. You can always bury a line to the garage for a sub-panel. If you can free up some space in the main you should be alright. :thumbsup:

It appears you have room for only 4 breakers at the top of the panel. What electric do you currently have in the detached garage? Besides the compressor, any other future plans for electric in the garage?

It looks like there could be some slots at the top available.
Since a detached building can only have one circuit running to it you will need to install a sub panel in the garage and then run circuits for your compressor and any lights and receptacles you want. How large of a compressor is it? Normally a 60 amp panel will be enough for what you need in a garage.

:eek:I can't believe I didn't see that!

currently in the garage there is not much at all, one light, two outlets (one for the garage door, the other empty) and that is about it. It has a feed cable running underground, but no circuit box that i have seen.


I would be happy with just being able to wire the compressor (3hp) since i plan to move within the next year or so. If its easier i am okay with just having the 220v outlet next to the main circuit box and moving my compressor the times i need it.

I have no idea on the non-marked circuit breakers, its only a 3 bedroom home with a single living room, small dining room.

Post your compressor specs.

Welders and probably compressors depend on a short duty cycle to not trip whatever breaker (with whatever trip curve) you install.

There seems to be a pressure on manufacturers to advertise that low amperage breakers are suitable for their products. This goes for table saws, welders, compressors - things that occasionally draw high current but reasonably low average current.

Harbor Freight Special

4 HP, 120 psi, 29 gallon, 2-cylinder
220 volt, 60 Hz, 23.5 amps (start up), 12.5 amps (no load)
Air delivery 16.4 CFM @ 40 PSI, 15.7 CFM @ 70 PSI, 14.5 CFM @ 90 PSI, 13 CFM @ 110 PSI

i plan to use this to prime my car, so it will be running an air gun mainly.

So @ 85% efficiency and a Power Factor assumed to be 1.0, 4 x 746/(220 x 0.85) = 16A, more or less, while the motor is running under load.

You could put a 240v receptacle at the panel and the make up an extension cord with 240v 20A configuration plugs on either end. That might be quick and easy for what you need.

thanks, i think this sounds like the "easy" and best solution for my temporary location and limited use.

Now the "problem" is how to install the 240v receptacle, i will do some googling but if anyone can point me in the right direction i would appreciate it.

EDIT:

I am just in the planning stages here, and not about to touch a thing;

But i have a few questions.

1. Would a 30amp breaker be a better idea than a 20amp? since the compressor might draw 23.5 at start-up? I am in southern California so cold weather wont be a problem
2. Can i still get away with 12-2 gauge cable?
3. IF i decide to tackle this on myself, any problem with turning off the main feed before touching anything? i know this wont guarantee anything, but hey at least a tad safer.
4. Should most detach garages have a sub-panel to be code compliment? i shall look closer tonight but i am pretty sure i have none.

This house was built in the 60's but everything is suppose to be updated about 8 years ago.

Oddly enough, you can maintain the 12 ga. with a 30 amp breaker in this instance. The NEC has allowances / specifications for this type of situation....and this type only.

Why is breaker #24 tripped?

Definitely turn off the main when working in that panel... your particular panel has very little wiring room. so you will be working in cramped quarters and you don't want to inadvertently touch anything "hot".

Please forgive my ignorance if i am referring to something incorrectly.

I have no idea why #24 is tripped, everything works but i will have to check on it.

I think i am understand things a bit better, and the route i will be taking is what CuriousB suggested "240v receptacle at the panel and the make up an extension cord with 240v 20A configuration plugs on either end". Since this is a short term solution i think it would be best, since everything else would be more involved and costly (sub-panel).



My question is, since this panel sits flush, do i have to tear into the wall a bit? or what would be the best way?




I checked the garage a bit better last night, it only has a 12-2 cable running via a 3/4 conduit that goes from the house to about 6 feet away where the corner of the garage is. This feeds two outlets and one light.



Home, outside outlet where the sprinkler system is hooked up, this is the conduit that runs to the garage as well.

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h2...524_214643.jpg


-Garage
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h2...524_214649.jpg
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-Cable from inside the garage

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h2...524_215415.jpg