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Old 07-22-2012, 12:14 AM   #16
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220v electric range


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Originally Posted by AllanJ View Post
I would suggest putting all the breakers and the wires they feed back in their original positions for starters for now.

Then work on finding out which breakers feed multiwire branch circuits (usually one on each MWBC has a red wire attached) and plan on what needs rearranging.


Overloading the neutral of a MWBC can result in loose connections from overheating developing en route over time (circuits daisy chain from one receptacle to the next). Should the neutral path go bad then you get all the wolfy problems described above.

Some older electric stoves will provide low to medium heat on some of the knob positions on some of the burners when one of the hot feed wires for 240 volts is out.

You may make a 240 (220) volt electric water heater work on 120 volts by unhooking the white wire of its feed from the respective breaker and connecting that white wire to the neutral bus. (Move the black wire to the other half of the breaker if it was originally on the dead half) Expect the recovery time (heating of the next tankful of water) to be more than twice the normal time).

I am guessing that a 120/240 volt electric stove can work on 120 volts by doing this: Find its 3 wire cable and breaker. Turn off the breaker. Unhook that cable white wire from the neutral bus and tape over the end and label it. Unhook the (red or black) wire from the dead half of the breaker and connect that wire to the neutral bus. Caution: I cannot rule out undesirable side effects to the clock and timer and other 120 volt components in the stove which are now getting roughly 60 volts, the exact amount depends on how the burners are switched into the circuit at that moment.
Now here's a guy who knows his way around electrical problems - Hats off! (Andrew 79 needs to button the cake hold, and start listening. Horses and water...you can lead a horse to water, but...)

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Old 07-22-2012, 12:53 AM   #17
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220v electric range


You guys are missing the bigger problem here...HE REARRANGED HIS PANEL. That is why the MWBC issue came up. NOT because of the OP and range question.
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Old 07-22-2012, 03:08 AM   #18
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220v electric range


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Originally Posted by k_buz
You guys are missing the bigger problem here...HE REARRANGED HIS PANEL. That is why the MWBC issue came up. NOT because of the OP and range question.
The range should still work at a reduced power. Maybe only a burner or two depending how its wired internally. Might be enough to heat stuff up though. You can't really hurt it by having it on. An element isn't like a motor in the sense that undervoltage can kill it. The only thing I would worry about is backfeeding your panel through the dead leg of the 240 and basically putting your stove in series with that half of the panel.
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Old 07-22-2012, 03:26 AM   #19
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220v electric range


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What about your attitude here on the site though...?
*sigh* I'm glad I got a wake up call from another poster that brought me back to earth and made me realize that your opinion really doesn't matter to me. So feel free to run around the forum telling people they need to go back to school, or insinuating they're stupid. I pride myself on controlling my temper and this will be the last response you illicit out of me.

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