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Old 07-19-2012, 08:50 PM   #1
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220v electric range


I live in an area that has recently been plagued with power outages although I am lucky enough to say that I have only lost half my power. Thus giving me only one 110v power source down one side of my box. Is there a way that I can rewire my range connection to operate off one side of my box until service is restored?

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Old 07-19-2012, 09:48 PM   #2
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220v electric range


No....i'm pretty sure you can't....how long does your power look to be out for?

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Old 07-19-2012, 10:00 PM   #3
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They are telling me several days. I have already reconfigured my box to supply as much power throughout the house as possible, but am trying to figure ways to cook and get hot water. Since that's electric also.
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Old 07-19-2012, 10:09 PM   #4
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Not going to happen. And you've probably seriouly unbalanced your panel by shifting stuff around. When powers restored move it all back.

How do you only lose one leg in an outage?
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Old 07-19-2012, 10:58 PM   #5
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You know, moving the breakers around MAY have created a fire hazard. If you have both legs of a multi wire branch circuit on the same phase, the neutral could become overloaded thus creating a fire hazard.
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Old 07-19-2012, 11:25 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by k_buz View Post
You know, moving the breakers around MAY have created a fire hazard. If you have both legs of a multi wire branch circuit on the same phase, the neutral could become overloaded thus creating a fire hazard.
No Bro...!
Don't do that... You can easily double-phase neutral on three wire circuits, causing open circuit neutrals and equipment/appliance damage, let alone a code and safety violation that could cause a fire.
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Old 07-20-2012, 05:47 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by kontoose View Post
Don't do that... You can easily double-phase neutral on three wire circuits, causing open circuit neutrals and equipment/appliance damage,
Can you explain how moving a breaker can cause an open neutral ?
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Old 07-20-2012, 10:23 AM   #8
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220v electric range


Thanks for althe feedback with my problem, but the electric company has informed me that there is damage to the transformer which has cause my bazaar half outage. So I have decided to leave it alone and wait.
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Old 07-20-2012, 02:51 PM   #9
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220v electric range


Running a 220 appliance on 110 will give you 1/4th of the power and maybe >4x the cooking time.
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Old 07-20-2012, 05:56 PM   #10
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220v electric range


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Originally Posted by js77 View Post
I live in an area that has recently been plagued with power outages although I am lucky enough to say that I have only lost half my power. Thus giving me only one 110v power source down one side of my box. Is there a way that I can rewire my range connection to operate off one side of my box until service is restored?

In short ! It cannot be easily and safely done !
It is technically possible,
but many problems would come with it !
safety and code wise.
Best not to do it !
Easier to just get an 220v genny !
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Old 07-21-2012, 12:36 AM   #11
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220v electric range


The electrical arc, (or initially - spark), under a loose or bad connection is -- although minute at first -- is around 3,000 degrees C. Each time the arc strikes, it erodes and bites into the copper (or aluminum) at the node. This deposits either copper oxide, or alluminum oxide at the node, and the heating further loosens the alkready bad connection.
Here is born the vicious cycle.
The more the arcing the more the deposit the less the copper surface area...the resistance goes up at the node, and the cycle intensifies...until the connection is broken...and yes - a by product of this cycle is burnt insulation - which may cause a short...but matter not, the end result is...an open.
(Homework is advise for you my boy...but, in the form of...[many years] of experience.
Whooo ah, ahh, hahahaha (Daemonic laugh).
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Old 07-21-2012, 01:09 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by kontoose View Post
The electrical arc, (or initially - spark), under a loose or bad connection is -- although minute at first -- is around 3,000 degrees C. Each time the arc strikes, it erodes and bites into the copper (or aluminum) at the node. This deposits either copper oxide, or alluminum oxide at the node, and the heating further loosens the alkready bad connection.
Here is born the vicious cycle.
The more the arcing the more the deposit the less the copper surface area...the resistance goes up at the node, and the cycle intensifies...until the connection is broken...and yes - a by product of this cycle is burnt insulation - which may cause a short...but matter not, the end result is...an open.
(Homework is advise for you my boy...but, in the form of...[many years] of experience.
Whooo ah, ahh, hahahaha (Daemonic laugh).
(Thank you for your participation).
if being at trade for 40 years leaves me like that i'm going back to school monday and i'm going to be an accountant.
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Old 07-21-2012, 06:32 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by js77 View Post
They are telling me several days. I have already reconfigured my box to supply as much power throughout the house as possible, but am trying to figure ways to cook and get hot water. Since that's electric also.

I brought that part up because of the above quote.
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Old 07-21-2012, 08:01 AM   #14
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220v electric range


I would suggest putting all the breakers and the wires they feed back in their original positions for starters for now.

Then work on finding out which breakers feed multiwire branch circuits (usually one on each MWBC has a red wire attached) and plan on what needs rearranging.

Quote:
... how moving a breaker can cause an open neutral ...
Overloading the neutral of a MWBC can result in loose connections from overheating developing en route over time (circuits daisy chain from one receptacle to the next). Should the neutral path go bad then you get all the wolfy problems described above.

Some older electric stoves will provide low to medium heat on some of the knob positions on some of the burners when one of the hot feed wires for 240 volts is out.

You may make a 240 (220) volt electric water heater work on 120 volts by unhooking the white wire of its feed from the respective breaker and connecting that white wire to the neutral bus. (Move the black wire to the other half of the breaker if it was originally on the dead half) Expect the recovery time (heating of the next tankful of water) to be more than twice the normal time).

I am guessing that a 120/240 volt electric stove can work on 120 volts by doing this: Find its 3 wire cable and breaker. Turn off the breaker. Unhook that cable white wire from the neutral bus and tape over the end and label it. Unhook the (red or black) wire from the dead half of the breaker and connect that wire to the neutral bus. Caution: I cannot rule out undesirable side effects to the clock and timer and other 120 volt components in the stove which are now getting roughly 60 volts, the exact amount depends on how the burners are switched into the circuit at that moment.
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Last edited by AllanJ; 07-21-2012 at 02:48 PM.
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Old 07-21-2012, 12:25 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Silk View Post
If you put both breakers on the same side of the phase (because the home only has 1 phase with the neutral bonded to the middle of that phase, so stop talking about "phases") an open neutral will cause an open circuit with zero current flow, thus resulting in zero voltage drop across the appliance, thus the appliance is safe.

Your open neutral scenario burning out the loads only applies on a true MWBC.

So, if you have seen this literally hundreds if not thousands of times..... You have been mistaken literally hundreds if not thousands of times....

Shine on
Somehow i just don't think my wording would have been this good if i had said this. Nicely put

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Last edited by andrew79; 07-21-2012 at 12:30 PM.
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