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Old 01-23-2012, 05:35 PM   #46
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220V 15A outlet in Garage


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Originally Posted by Julius793 View Post
Your the one who doesn't work in the field and therefore have no clue what your talking about. Anything that is made in the states to be installed single phase will be rated for 120v or more.
Their rated for 125 not 120. And NOT all receptacles are rated for that. You are mistaken in that.

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Old 01-23-2012, 05:36 PM   #47
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220V 15A outlet in Garage


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Originally Posted by jasin

Their rated for 125 not 120.
What do you work as?
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Old 01-23-2012, 05:40 PM   #48
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220V 15A outlet in Garage


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You work in the electric field and yet, do not understand the dangers of overvolting and/or going beyond maximum ratings?
Im no expert like you jasin,but it seems like ive heard somewhere that certain motors like to run at voltages up to around 10-12% higher than normal.
But again ill wait for you to make that call for us!
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Old 01-23-2012, 05:43 PM   #49
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220V 15A outlet in Garage


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What do you work as?
Hes working his way through maintenance college ,remember?
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Old 01-23-2012, 05:45 PM   #50
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220V 15A outlet in Garage


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Hes working his way through maintenance college ,remember?
that was my first guess my second will be a home inspector and third will be an EE that know **** . Well anyway got to go now have to find my troll spray
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Old 01-23-2012, 05:48 PM   #51
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220V 15A outlet in Garage


They must have booted him off military.com again!
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Old 01-23-2012, 06:48 PM   #52
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220V 15A outlet in Garage


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Originally Posted by jasin View Post
I notice a lot of people on here still say 110 and 220 but that's incorrect. The nominal voltage in the USA is 125 and 250.
The nominal voltages are 120 and 240.

Devices have the 125 and 250 volt ratings.
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Old 01-23-2012, 06:51 PM   #53
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220V 15A outlet in Garage


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Originally Posted by jasin View Post
Sub-panel is a very good idea/suggestion. He probably would only need too, a 60 amp panel at most. That may, however, overload the main panel. If the main panel has a dryer, furnace, AC, etc. on it, then having a 60amp sub-panel will most likely overload the main. Also, if he has a sub-panel he will need a sub-panel with a built in cut off / interrupt switch; I believe that is require by code.
A disconnect means would only be required if the sub was in a detached building and had 6 or more breakers. It would not be needed in an attached structure.

A single circuit to a detached structure could have a toggle switch as a disconnect.
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Old 01-23-2012, 07:00 PM   #54
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A disconnect means would only be required if the sub was in a detached building and had 6 or more breakers. It would not be needed in an attached structure.

A single circuit to a detached structure could have a toggle switch as a disconnect.
If he does not have 6 or more and there is no possibility of future upgrades or additions being added then a sub-panel is really pointless.

http://www.ci.bloomington.mn.us/hand...3fffdetach.pdf

He really has not given us to many specifics though so its all speculation as to what would work best in his particular situation.

Last edited by jasin; 01-23-2012 at 07:10 PM.
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Old 01-23-2012, 07:12 PM   #55
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220V 15A outlet in Garage


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The nominal voltages are 120 and 240.

Devices have the 125 and 250 volt ratings.
I meant 120 / 240. You are correct though.
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Old 01-23-2012, 07:28 PM   #56
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220V 15A outlet in Garage


We seem to have lost the point that the OP has a welder or compressor with a 20 amp plug. It should be wired to a 20 amp circuit (20 amp receptacle, #12 wire and a 20 amp breaker). He should not install a 20 amp receptacle on his existing 15 amp circuit.
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Old 01-23-2012, 07:33 PM   #57
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220V 15A outlet in Garage


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If he does not have 6 or more and there is no possibility of future upgrades or additions being added then a sub-panel is really pointless.

http://www.ci.bloomington.mn.us/hand...3fffdetach.pdf

He really has not given us to many specifics though so its all speculation as to what would work best in his particular situation.
What are you talking about? If a single circuit does not meet the needs a subpanel is the only option.
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Old 01-23-2012, 07:34 PM   #58
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What are you talking about? If a single circuit does not meet the needs a subpanel is the only option.
That's exactly what I was saying.
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Old 01-23-2012, 07:36 PM   #59
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He should not install a 20 amp receptacle on his existing 15 amp circuit.
If he has 12 gauge wiring he can upgrade to a 20 amp braker NO problem. That was not his question though. He was asking about using a 20 amp outlet, I think he means ... "receptacle", on a 15amp circuit. And that is perfectly fine, he can do that. No code violations there.

Only problem is in upgrading the breaker to 20amp when only having 14 gauge wiring. He did not say he is doing that. At least, not from what I read.

You know, it really helps if we all use the correct terms. Receptacles and outlets are two different things. We should not use the term "outlet" in reference to a receptacle.

Last edited by jasin; 01-23-2012 at 07:47 PM.
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Old 01-23-2012, 07:45 PM   #60
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That's exactly what I was saying.
Oh really?

Quote:
Originally Posted by jasin View Post
If he does not have 6 or more and there is no possibility of future upgrades or additions being added then a sub-panel is really pointless.

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