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Old 12-06-2007, 03:05 PM   #16
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2 switches - 14/3 cable


Scott

Go up to HD or Lowes and get one of these below it reads both 120 and 220 only use the non-contact tester in the hot slots of outlets or if your wanting to see if a power cord is live. You do not want to trust these testers for much more than that. The worst mistake you can make is to "think" your reading phantom voltage when your not.



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Old 12-06-2007, 03:19 PM   #17
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2 switches - 14/3 cable


Yep, thats the one I use a lot I actually have 3 or 4 of them from different manufacturers. If you want a good tester that does it all but measuring ampacity get one of these...

http://www.idealindustries.com/produ...age_tester.jsp

Caution though.... the non-contact is no different with these any of the others but phantom or ghost voltages will not show with the other test functions.

Last edited by Stubbie; 12-06-2007 at 03:28 PM.
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Old 12-06-2007, 03:31 PM   #18
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2 switches - 14/3 cable


So, going back to my original (GULP) problem.....

If I have that branch cct moved to a 15AMP breaker, I will be OK mixing the 12/2 and 14/3 wires?

I think what I will have done is have a contractor come in and tell me what is best for my panel. Hopefully, he can then give me input on the other 7 branch circuits to tell me if I've done something incorrectly. This makes me made, because it's the last room that I had to do....everything else has the fixtures, recepticals, and switches connected and seem to be working correctly.
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Old 12-06-2007, 03:39 PM   #19
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2 switches - 14/3 cable


Quote:
If I have that branch cct moved to a 15AMP breaker, I will be OK mixing the 12/2 and 14/3 wires
Yes as long as you do not have more than 15 amps operating at one time consistantly. Most likely you will be fine just depends on what you have for load on that branch circuit.

Quote:
I think what I will have done is have a contractor come in and tell me what is best for my panel. Hopefully, he can then give me input on the other 7 branch circuits to tell me if I've done something incorrectly. This makes me made, because it's the last room that I had to do....everything else has the fixtures, recepticals, and switches connected and seem to be working correctly.
What exactly is the problem with the 7 other circuits? I didn't catch that in your posts.
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Old 12-06-2007, 03:52 PM   #20
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2 switches - 14/3 cable


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Yes as long as you do not have more than 15 amps operating at one time consistantly. Most likely you will be fine just depends on what you have for load on that branch circuit.

What exactly is the problem with the 7 other circuits? I didn't catch that in your posts.
No problems with the other 7....all are working fine. This was the last branch circuit I got to (installing switches, recpt, etc) and then noticed this discrepency.

Just makes me "made" (sorry about the previous typo) that I didn't catch this before the sheetrock and paint was completed. I cabled this about 9 months ago, needed to save to paint and sheetrock and now just getting to setting everything back up. I guess I didn't realize there was 12/3 cable.
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Old 12-06-2007, 04:00 PM   #21
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2 switches - 14/3 cable


Well I guess congratulations are in order...you are now a member of the screwed something up electrical club.....
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Old 12-06-2007, 04:18 PM   #22
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2 switches - 14/3 cable


Well, I guess it "serves me right" this 3 way and one more bedroom (fortunately it's already on a 14/2 - 15 AMP branch cct) was the only two fixtures I didn't test before sheetrock......you live and learn, I guess.

MORE IMPORTANTLY, I want to say THANK YOU GUYS for helping me through your experience and knowledge. I really do appreciate your time!!!
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Old 12-07-2007, 06:26 PM   #23
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2 switches - 14/3 cable


find your hot. 2 pigtail from that to each switch. all nuetrals together and graounds the same. 14/3 going up black to one switch red to the other. you will find is is easier if the light is wired with the red from the 14/3 is if you plan to put up a fan because fan wiring goes as such white=nuetral,black=fan motor, and color(usually blue)=light. this is a very simple thing that seems to have gotten complicated. i am an electrician and i have never needed or seen a wiring schematic so complicated. no oofense to the poster that that has confusion written all over it for a diyer. at not that a diyer can't figure it out it just is too complicated especially for new work. to the original poster there is no sub-panel needed go to your nearest home dopot,lowes,ace ect. and and change the 2 pole breaker to two "twin" 15a breakers as long as the origal circuit does not feed a 240v outlet which it dosesn't sound like it does. sorry for rambling as a profesional in the electrical trade i understand how hard it is for d.y.i.ers/h.o.ers to figure out electric. it is not some i recomend doing unless it is something simple like a decive change. if you get mixed up and confused my advice would be to call a liscenced electrician. sorry for rambling just my thoughts.
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Old 12-09-2007, 02:14 PM   #24
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2 switches - 14/3 cable


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find your hot. 2 pigtail from that to each switch. all nuetrals together and graounds the same. 14/3 going up black to one switch red to the other. you will find is is easier if the light is wired with the red from the 14/3 is if you plan to put up a fan because fan wiring goes as such white=nuetral,black=fan motor, and color(usually blue)=light. this is a very simple thing that seems to have gotten complicated. i am an electrician and i have never needed or seen a wiring schematic so complicated. no oofense to the poster that that has confusion written all over it for a diyer. at not that a diyer can't figure it out it just is too complicated especially for new work. to the original poster there is no sub-panel needed go to your nearest home dopot,lowes,ace ect. and and change the 2 pole breaker to two "twin" 15a breakers as long as the origal circuit does not feed a 240v outlet which it dosesn't sound like it does. sorry for rambling as a profesional in the electrical trade i understand how hard it is for d.y.i.ers/h.o.ers to figure out electric. it is not some i recomend doing unless it is something simple like a decive change. if you get mixed up and confused my advice would be to call a liscenced electrician. sorry for rambling just my thoughts.
"WireDog"

Thanks for your reply....

The problem with replacing the existing tandem 20A breaker is that there are (2) 12G (20 AMP) branch cct. currently on it. I did hire a Residential "dial-an-electrician" to come out and tell me if the other 20A branch cct. can be loaded up on a tandem 15 breaker, with it's current load. Also, being a DIY'er he has agreed to do a inspection on my work...which is added self-assurance.

Thanks for your help everyone!
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Old 12-11-2007, 07:03 AM   #25
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2 switches - 14/3 cable


So, as I alluded to before, I called a licensed electrician who came out an assessed the scenario. In addition to the 14/3 being ran on a 20AMP circuit he pointed out a couple of other things that I should be concerned with. First, there were tandem breakers that had been notched to allow for install higher than the bottom 5 rows on the panel bus. Also, the two bedrooms (newly added, one of which this 14/3 - 12/2 cable is installed in) were not on AFCI breakers. So the panel is now full, and there are two noticeable code violations.

I asked him what it would cost to fix it, and make everything up to code. He whipped out a menu that look not too dissimilar to that of a Chili's menu and told me roughly $2,000.00. I begrudged the fact of paying $2,000.00 but safety is foremost. I told him that was a lot of money and we began looking at the receptacle and fixture installs, as the Company agreed to do a "site inspection". I was basically at the "I will think about it" stage and he was going to leave, when I asked him about the possibility of a sub-panel. He agreed that would be a good option and quoted me a more affordable price of $800.00, which I agreed to pay, and felt really good about. The electrician was very knowledgeable and didnít once act annoyed at my questions.

So, now all tandem breakers are within code on the bus, the two rooms are now on AFCI breakers, and the original problem has been placed on a 15AMP circuit. Moral of the story, not that I had room on the initial panel to perform all of these requirements, it's still better to consult an electrician who knows the NEC. I really feel good about the outcome, and know that my family is safer. Being that this home is less than 2 yrs old. I do wonder why in the hell the builder couldn't supply a panel that would cover the requirements of both the finished and unfinished areas.....but the cost savings of a builder is another topic/thread.

Again, thanks for your time.
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Old 12-11-2007, 09:24 AM   #26
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2 switches - 14/3 cable


glad that you got everything worked out. im sure the safety of your family is waaaay move valuable than $800.

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