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Old 06-18-2011, 02:47 PM   #1
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120V outlet not working


My GFCI outlet in my kitchen (next to the dishwasher, garbage disposal switch and sing) is not working.

What I did:
  1. Pushed the reset button on the GFCI. NOTHING.
  2. Flipped the switch at the main panel. NOTHING.
  3. Installed a new GFCI outlet. Old GFCI had a burn mark on it so I was optimistic. NOTHING.
  4. Tested wiring connecting to the GFCI outlet with a multimeter. Only read 12Volts.
  5. Checked breaker with multimeter. Registered 120V.
I don't know what to check next, but 120 volts is not making it to the end of the wire at the GFCI outlet connection.

I have a detached garage where my breaker box is located.

I moved into this 2006 house last year and this outlet didn't work at that time either.

Please Help!!


Last edited by wsdivall; 06-18-2011 at 03:30 PM.
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Old 06-18-2011, 03:24 PM   #2
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120V outlet not working


Have you considered that it might be fed through another GFI unit somewhere?

Do you have continuity from the neutral conductor to the ground wire?


I've seen stranger things ....

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Old 06-18-2011, 03:33 PM   #3
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120V outlet not working


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Originally Posted by kbsparky View Post
Have you considered that it might be fed through another GFI unit somewhere?

Do you have continuity from the neutral conductor to the ground wire?


I've seen stranger things ....
What does it mean if it's fed through another GFI unit? Would it cause the wires not to read hot? FWIW, all my other GFI's are working appropriately.

How would I check to see if I have continuity from the neutral conductor to the ground wire? Sorry, I'm a newby.
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Old 06-18-2011, 07:45 PM   #4
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120V outlet not working


You could have a redundantly fed circuit there. To test for neutral to ground continuity, you will need an ohm meter, or a Vol-Con type tester.
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Old 06-18-2011, 07:45 PM   #5
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120V outlet not working


Gfci's won't reset unless there is power to them. Are you using a digital or analog meter to test the gfci? I suspect that either the gfci isn't connected properly to power, or that the neutral is open somewhere on the circuit. If all the other outlets work and all the breakers are on, you have a faulty or loose connection somewhere. If you have a way to shut off the circuit that you think operates the gfci, you can trace the wiring with a signal generator and probe.
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Old 06-18-2011, 09:08 PM   #6
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120V outlet not working


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Originally Posted by kbsparky View Post
You could have a redundantly fed circuit there. To test for neutral to ground continuity, you will need an ohm meter, or a Vol-Con type tester.
I see. I do have an ohm meter.
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Old 06-18-2011, 09:17 PM   #7
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120V outlet not working


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Gfci's won't reset unless there is power to them. Are you using a digital or analog meter to test the gfci? I suspect that either the gfci isn't connected properly to power, or that the neutral is open somewhere on the circuit. If all the other outlets work and all the breakers are on, you have a faulty or loose connection somewhere. If you have a way to shut off the circuit that you think operates the gfci, you can trace the wiring with a signal generator and probe.
There is definitely no power to this one as it's not resetting.

I purchased the Equus 3320 Auto-Ranging Digital Multimeter two weeks ago to test this mess.

I'm pretty sure it's not the GFCI connection. With the GFCI off and just the wires exposed, I use the multimeter to test them and get a 12V reading on bare wire. Based on your comment it may mean the neutral is open somewhere on the circuit.

All outlets don't work. I'm assuming GFCI is the first outlet connection from the breaker. It is in my kitchen and there are 3 outlets after the GFCI outlet that do not work either.
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Old 06-18-2011, 09:29 PM   #8
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120V outlet not working


Are there other wires in the box not connected to the gfci? The reason I asked about your meter is that digital meters can often pick up voltages (phantom) which aren't there. Analog meters won't. I'm thinking that 12 volts may not really be there, and if that is the case start looking around upstream of the problem for an open connection. But then again a low reading can often indicatet an open neutral. What do you have from the hot side to ground, if anything
?

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