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Old 01-23-2012, 10:45 AM   #1
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100A to 200A upgrade Photos. Please provide any feedback.


So this weekend I decided to tackle upgrading my panel from 100A to 200A and prepare for the new 200A drop. The existing panel was rusting out and maxed out. This is my first time posting on this forum so please go easy on me.

To summarize... Installed a new HomeLine 200A 40/40 panel next to the existing 100A panel. Removed the existing panel and replaced with a 125A load center to act as a service disconnect for the existing 100A service coming in. Installed temporary 2/2/2/4 Alum service cable from the 125A panel to power the new 200A panel. Ran conduit 2" ENT conduit outside which will connect to new Meter Pan and extend up to connect to the service.

Since it is cold out, I only tackled the inside work for now, once it warms up, I will finish by installing a new Meter pan, running Copper 0/2 cable up to the weather head and tie in the service.

Let me know what you guys think so far.

Existing Panel (Kitchen Sub Panel Temporarily Removed
http://i.imgur.com/fneFj.jpg
Existing Panel (6/3 to Kitchen Sub extended)
http://i.imgur.com/Ohjc7.jpg
New Panel & existing Kitchen Sub
http://i.imgur.com/G3CuO.jpg
New Panel Wired Up & Old Panel replaced with Service Disconnect
http://i.imgur.com/fneFj.jpg
Another Shot of new Panel (Still have some breakers roughed in pending their final install. Mainly Lights and other temporary circuits.
http://i.imgur.com/yLVoX.jpg

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Last edited by mcnutter1; 01-23-2012 at 11:39 AM.
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Old 01-23-2012, 11:18 AM   #2
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100A to 200A upgrade Photos. Please provide any feedback.


Could you resize your pics please? One breaker is filling my entire screen and my 1990's laptop just had a meltdown.

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Old 01-23-2012, 11:29 AM   #3
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100A to 200A upgrade Photos. Please provide any feedback.


You said we should be nice to you so I'm just gona let the others comment.
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Old 01-23-2012, 11:40 AM   #4
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OK, Made them links since that is easier then trying to resize all of them.
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Old 01-23-2012, 12:05 PM   #5
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100A to 200A upgrade Photos. Please provide any feedback.


Okay... First issue is your forth picture is not what you say it is, it's the same picture as the first picture.

Bear in mind I'm a lay person who's done a similar project, so others will be more knowledgeable, but I can relate to what kind of things a lay person might miss.

Some more background would be helpful - tell us about the house, because it sounds like you must be doing this with electric power disconnected and not needing anything running in the mean time since you removed the old panel?

The circuits you've connected to breakers in your new 200A panel.. those cables should be secured, that will be required before you can get a pass on rough inspection. They should pass through knockouts where they are secured with cable clamps. They should be stapled.

You have a service entrance knock-out removed for the back of the panel with a insulating bushing installed... Why is that? If this is where the 200A service entrance will be coming in, you'd have to pull this panel off to drill the hole in the wall anyway... If you aren't going to use this hole, you will be required to put a hole plug into it to close the hole.

Explain more about this shut-off and the goal in general, I don't understand. You have a temporary 125 shut-off? So the service entrance will be moving over a couple feet and then coming in through the back of the panel?

See... one thing about what I did, I didn't depend on anything in my new panel being live until after I passed rough inspection.

I might be understating this, but I think the wires from the kitchen subpanel going up across the window is wrong.

You need to understand what code cycle this will be inspected to, I wanted to do this anyway but my project was done to 2005 NEC (first permit pulled in August '10) and 2008 NEC (second permit pulled in June '11) and both require that you basicly have your wet locations GFCI protected (basement, garage, bathrooms) and pretty much everything else AFCI protected. There are no AFCI breakers in your panel. You may be required to make that upgrade.

The way I handled my setup was that I connected to my old panel by running a cable that went into a double pole breaker on my new panel so the new panel acted as a subpanel, and then my new service entrance went into the new panel's main breaker, which was kept off until the PoCo connected to it.

I don't see any sign that you've made the ground connections to the ground rods outside or the bonding of the ground to your water and gas pipes.
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Old 01-23-2012, 12:23 PM   #6
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Will, I believe that looks like fiberglass insulation stuffed in the back KO.

Why install a subpanel for the kitchen? Will you be out of spaces in the 40 ckt panel?
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Old 01-23-2012, 12:33 PM   #7
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Quote:
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Will, I believe that looks like fiberglass insulation stuffed in the back KO.

Why install a subpanel for the kitchen? Will you be out of spaces in the 40 ckt panel?
I see. So I'll ask the question - is that allowed once the service entrance cable is in there? I've assumed it isn't, but if it's allowed I'd be glad to shut off or slow down the cold air coming through.
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Old 01-23-2012, 12:36 PM   #8
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Areas exposed to temperature differentials are required to be sealed to prevent condensation.
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Old 01-23-2012, 12:37 PM   #9
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Willk,

Sorry about the bad link, they are essentially the same picture anyway, just from a different angle.

More Background:
The power was live, essentially replaced the old panel with a new one which could accommodate the connection from the service over to the new panel temporarily.

The circuits in the new panel are mostly clamped, stapled and through knockouts in the top. There were a couple just roughed in to provide temporary power while everything else was being wired up.

The entrance knockout in the top right goes outside through 2 inch ENT for the new drop. It is plugged outside and on the inside to keep the elements out.

The shut off to the right's purpose is to bridge the existing service (100A) rated to the new panel while still maintaining the 100A limitation. This is a temporary feed to the new panel until the new service is dropped. The new service will enter through the back of the panel.

Before final inspection, I plan on having everything disconnected and the new service not yet connected. The old service will also be disconnected so the house will have no power. (Cleared this procedure with the town already and they said it is common)

The kitchen sub panel used to be where the new panel is, I moved it temporarily while installing the new panel, it was only moved for about 3-5 hours while we were working. Had to keep the wife happy and not shut the entire kitchen down on a weekend. That panel is now out of commission and all circuits are wired into the new panel.

All circuits, wire size, breaker rating, # of Receptacles, GFCI/AFCI... are according to NEC & local code. I just haven't installed those breakers yet as the circuits requiring those (Jacuzzi, Yard Outlets, Bedrooms) aren't connected yet. I will be installing AFCI breakers for each bedroom and GFCI breakers for Jacuzzi & yard outlets. AFCI are only required in bedrooms (unless I am mistaken but the code states as of 2005NEC that only Dwelling bedroom circuits require AFCI protection). All other circuits in wet locations have GFCI outlets.

All grounding comes in through that service disconnect panel. My house uses non-metalic water lines so cant ground to them. Ground Rods and Ground from Pole are the only grounds. Ground rods are sunk 10 feet and 6 feet apart. I would take pictures but they are covered by snow right now.

Also, I was told by my town official that grounding to the gas lines is not allowed by town code.
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Old 01-23-2012, 12:40 PM   #10
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Jim,

It is now the brick of clay like material, the last picture doesn't reference it as it is from the outside. What you saw was a towel which was now removed.
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Old 01-23-2012, 12:41 PM   #11
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Review the NEC difference between outlets and receptacles as far as AFCI protection.
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Old 01-23-2012, 12:42 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Port View Post
Review the NEC difference between outlets and receptacles as far as AFCI protection.
Each bedroom is a single circuit. Lights, Wall outlets... all one circuit. Does that make sense?
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Old 01-23-2012, 12:49 PM   #13
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Some just confuse the word outlets with what are tecnically receptacles. In doing so they would leave out lighting and the smoke alarms from the AFCI protection.

Since you only have one circuit to cover the lighting and receptacles you should be fine.
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Old 01-23-2012, 02:11 PM   #14
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So you're still on 2005 NEC?

How about the interconnected smoke detectors? Do you have them or if not do you know if that's going to be required? In my case I didn't have them, and I didn't care if they were required - I put them in because I wanted them to be there.
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Old 01-23-2012, 02:18 PM   #15
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The smokes I am using are 4-wire DC connected directly to the alarm panel. No AC connections for them. The alarm has a 12 hour battery backup also.

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So you're still on 2005 NEC?

How about the interconnected smoke detectors? Do you have them or if not do you know if that's going to be required? In my case I didn't have them, and I didn't care if they were required - I put them in because I wanted them to be there.

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