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Zone Valve not working

2K views 6 replies 2 participants last post by  beenthere 
#1 ·
Hi,
I am new here and I did peruse the site to find an answer to my problem..but struck out.

I have radiant in-floor heat with an indirect water heater. Last year Zone 4 quit working and I finally got around to looking at it. I finally figured out the front / removeable ahlf of the thermostat on the wall was not making good contact with the permanently (screwed to the wall) half of the thermostat. I fixed that by spreading the front half pins a little bit further aprat and now the thermostat is calling for heat. the green light is on. However, the red light will not come on. I took a meter downstairs to the Argo AZ-6P zone valve control box and found the following:
@ the switch behind the Honeywell zone valve: 2 red wires: meter on ACV 200 either 0 or 17.5v, depending on which lead is touchign which red wire..
@ the actuator: 2 yellow wires 19.1v or 26.4v depending on which lead touches which yellow wire

just the actuator removed: orange & yellow wires: Ohm 200 on meter: 23.6 or 23.6..no matter which kead touches which wire

with actuator connected to zone valve: orange & yellow wire: 6.7v, again no matter which lead touches the wires

Any thoughts as to why the red light will not come on? I actually had a 2nd Honeywell zone valve and swapped them out: i get the same above readings.

Even putting the switch in the manual position does not allow water to flow thru the pipes in the floor..

Thanks for the help.
 
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#2 · (Edited)
Hi, I pulled the power head off completely and moved the valve spindle back & forth. It moves very easily about 45 degrees. But, which direction is open when looking straight at the valve spindle..the zone valve is mounted horizontally, facing into the room. I currently have it turned all the way to the left. I am guessing it is in the open position as the radiant pipes in the bedroom wall are now very hot to the touch....ouch. I will know int he morning if the floors have heated up. If they have, would that mean the powerhead, which is the actuator, is bad?
 
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