You could cook an egg, even with the heat off!
Just to preface my entry, my 32-year-old husband passed away and left me to struggle living in the "Fixer-Upper" we had purchased. It's been difficult enough with him gone, and this whopper of a furnace problem doesn't help!!
I have an oil furnace with HWBB. It's a 2-zone system, with new thermostats both upstairs and downstairs. The downstairs temp stays stable, but the upstairs absolutely roasts! I have physically disconnected the upstairs thermostat from the wall, hung a very heavy curtain over the stairwell to keep the heat from rising to the second floor, and the temperature still stays at about 75 degrees, sometimes more. The furnace seems to run to continue heating the upstairs, while it only kicks on every so often to maintain the downstairs.
As you can imagine, it's causing some serious money problems because this situation is using exhorbitant amounts of oil. (I have an emergency delivery scheduled today because the tank ran dry last night. AGAIN!):cursing:
And on top of that, my hot water (which comes off the boiler,) won't maintain temperature when I take a shower. When I open the hot tap fully, the water is cold. But, when I fill the tub by only letting the hot tap open a little, the water is extremely hot. What the hell is happening?
Any advice would be appreciated more than you know.
your thermostats work the zone valves only,when a stat calls for heat the actuator opens and a switch inside makes the cirulator to cycle the water out of the boiler.the boiler runs on a temperature limit within itself that as the cool water comes back from the zoned baseboard the temp limit picks it up and runs the oil burner to reach the original setting.if the other stat is satisfied the circulator will not....can not cycle heated water into that floor because the zone valve it closed.tricks to try.. if the stats are the same flip them (mark the backs 2nd floor /1st floor)see if the 2nd floor stat acts the same downstairs in the overheating.what brand stat and the model number on back of part you pull off the subbase.if the stat has wake/leave/return/sleep settings.....set them for all the same temp both(don't worry about the times right now) on the 1st and 2nd floors 65F-68F.see if you get reactions with this stuff.....FIRST THING to check pull both stats off the subbases put aside and see if the boiler runs....OK!then at the zone vaves still with the stats removed,there should be a metal slide bar to maunully open them as you push them over do one first wait a minute or 2 and the boiler/circulator should come on..move it back the boiler/circulator should shut off ...then try the other one "Question to you" after the zone valve test did the bar move over easy to manual or was there resistance to put it to manual.i will check back:thumbsup:
It depends on how your system is installed. Some systems have one circulator, and zone valves. Other systems will have a circulator for each zone. If your boiler has two circulators, and you do not hear one of them humming, then chances are you have a bad check valve, and the heat is just rising up naturally. Sometimes you can get them to stop but usually they have to be replaced. If the circ. is running all the time then it could be a short in the thermostat, the wires or the circulator control. If the unit is run by one circulator and zone valves, then it could be a bad zone valve stuck open, a bad t-stat, or t-stst wires.
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