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items 12-17-2011 02:14 PM

York Diamond 90 furnace not starting
 
I have a York Diamond 90 updraft furnace in the basement and it stopped working this morning.
I tried to troubleshoot the problem:
1. The DRAFT INDUCER MOTOR starts running but the furnace will not come on.
2. I see 3 flashes of the led on the control board which means that the pressure switch is open.
3. I saw that the pressure switch has two tubes connected, one to the DRAFT INDUCER MOTOR and one to the burner box, I checked both tubes connections, the one connected to the DRAFT INDUCER MOTOR is blocked by default (the motor side has the connection but when inserting a screw driver there I felt itís blocked) I looked at the other size connected to the burner box and cleaned it.
4. I briefly pulled the tube from the burned box and pushed air inside and the pressure switch closed.
5. The DRAFT INDUCER MOTOR is running as I can see.
6. I have two pipes from the furnace going outside, one connected to the DRAFT INDUCER MOTOR and the other to the burner box, from what I can understand the DRAFT INDUCER MOTOR pulls air from the outside through the burner box and relief the pressure from the from the other pipe ( am I correct), I cleaned both with vacuum cleaner, I felt strong suction from each side when connected the vacuum to the other pipe.

Where do I go from here?
Can it be that the DRAFT INDUCER MOTOR is bad and not sucking enough air from the outside?

The DRAFT INDUCER MOTOR is A165 Fasco

how 12-17-2011 04:31 PM

I don't think there would be a reason to have a hose connected to your Inducer assy (I'm assuming you are talking about the fan compartment of the inducer motor) without it being functional. Even if a screwwdriver stops when inserted, the hole through to the inducer fan comp may be offset. Try exploring with a straightened paper clip to see if it can be cleared. Try using one of those hoses to blow into that inducer fan hose connection.
Make sure the hose doesn't have a connected t fitting going to your pressure switch when you blow through the hose or that air pressure may damage your pressure switch.

items 12-17-2011 04:44 PM

I tried what you suggested.
I connected a small pipe to the motor and tried to blow air inside, it's completely blocked, I tried with paper clip no luck.
The pressure switch has two connections, one to the motor and the other to the burner box

biggles 12-17-2011 04:48 PM

when the stat CALLS... the ID comes ON... then the PSI switch CLOSES.the control board is looking for that sequence any interuption you get the flash fault the pressure switch proofs that the ID is running and supplying air into the burner are the tubes connected to where you removed them might be backwards...onto the switch

items 12-17-2011 04:51 PM

Yes, the tubes are connected to the right place, there are labels on the pressure switch that specify where to connect to.
One motor, the other burner box.

Marty S. 12-17-2011 05:25 PM

Might take a small drill bit to clear the port on the inducer. Those deposits are very hard.

items 12-17-2011 05:56 PM

You where right, I took a screwdriver and pushed it hard inside, now it starts fine, thanks to you all for your help.
Just a quick question, the inducer fan is making a noise now, I assume because the deposits I pushed in are stuck inside.
I'm planning to take it apart tomorrow morning, see if I can remove the blades and clear this hole.
Any tips on how to remove the blades, when I opened it earlier I saw there is a spring on the shaft

how 12-17-2011 07:14 PM

Usually the access is through the removal of the whole motor/fan & assy from the furnace but you'll probably need a new gasket to replace the old gasket that will come apart when you do this.
I don't know about the spring on the shaft that you describe. Usually there is just a set screw that binds the squirrel cage to the motor shaft.

Is there a drain line at the bottom of the inducer fan assy which might allow the debris to fall out?

items 12-17-2011 07:59 PM

Yes there is a drain line.
I think I will buy a new motor and install it, it is safer than if it will break in the middle of the winter.

how 12-17-2011 08:50 PM

I think you'll find buying the whole inducer assy a better idea if you decide to go ahead with having a spare on hand or changing the motor. Those fan cages can really bind onto the motor shafts and it doesn't take much to warp them out of shape when trying to remove them.
Personally I'd be waiting a few days to see if that little piece of debris might find a quieter place to settle. If the debris is caught in the fan fin or the screwdriver damaged a fin then it will unbalance the wheel and vibration/noice and wear will result.

items 12-18-2011 07:40 AM

When replacing the inducer motor I need to seal between the motor and the vent.
What do I use, I understand it needs to be gas rated, can someone point me to what to purchase in homedepot?

yuri 12-18-2011 08:14 AM

red high temp rtv silicone. not sure if HD has it but some auto parts stores may as it may be useful for engines. otherwise U get it at HVAC supplier.

items 12-22-2011 02:18 PM

Just another quick question, I would like to take the opportunity to replace the igniter, in the furnace, it's 11 years and was never replaced.
I was reading the Silicon Nitride are very good replacement:
Do I need to plug them in as they are?
Which one should I buy, Honeywel Glowfly Universal Ignition or White Rodgers 21D64-2 120v Silicon Nitride Upgrade Kit?

Tator1076 12-23-2011 11:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by items (Post 800478)
Just another quick question, I would like to take the opportunity to replace the igniter, in the furnace, it's 11 years and was never replaced.
I was reading the Silicon Nitride are very good replacement:
Do I need to plug them in as they are?
Which one should I buy, Honeywel Glowfly Universal Ignition or White Rodgers 21D64-2 120v Silicon Nitride Upgrade Kit?

I did seen lowes is selling the honeywell. But look on back for the box for the brand furnace you need and model

items 12-23-2011 11:57 AM

OK, thanks, but my question was different.


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