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Old 11-08-2015, 02:15 PM   #1
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York Diamond 80 no ignition


I have a York Diamond 80 p4hua12n06401a gas furnace that won't ignite. It worked a few days ago, but this morning it would not light. This is what I've found:

Circuit board flashes 7 blips. I reset the furnace and opened the panels to check operation. The furnace blower turns on for a few seconds, then the igniter begins to glow. After several seconds, the igniter goes off. This happens three times, then the entire unit shuts down and I get the 7 flashes. I checked all connections and have cleaned the flame sensor. This has been the problem in the past, but since I'm getting zero flame at all I checked the gas valve. I'm getting 24 VAC at the gas valve each time the ignitor comes on, but no gas flow. The switch is ON. I've also checked to make sure I have gas flow at the furnace and it does (all other gas appliances in the house work).

Am I correct in assuming the gas valve has just gone bad? The gas valve is a Gemini 36G24Y Type 206. I've found these on Amazon and can have one in a few days, but didn't want to throw money away if there's something else I should be checking.

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Old 11-08-2015, 02:41 PM   #2
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Can you smell gas when it is getting 24 volts. The valve may be opening and if the igniter is not glowing red enough/correct color it may not light the gas. Ideally you should check for proper gas pressure coming out of the valve B4 condeming it. Pro's do. Need a manometer for that. Gas valves rarely fail.

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Old 11-08-2015, 02:54 PM   #3
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What gas pressure is the valve putting out when it's powered?
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Old 11-08-2015, 04:25 PM   #4
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There's no gas coming out. I can't smell gas and I tried lighting it when the ignitor came on. Finally, I put my nose down there and don't smell anything. Shouldn't the gas valve "click" when it opens? I don't hear anything.

I don't have a manometer, so can't test that. Just going for the obvious before I call in a pro and get charged an arm and a leg.
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Old 11-08-2015, 05:43 PM   #5
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I would remove the burners and poke the orifice holes in the manifold not burners thru carefully with a small drill bit. Apparently in some parts of the US spiders can get in there and lay eggs. The gas valve does not always click loudly. Otherwise you got to call a Pro. Blow the burners out with compressed air and rinse them with hot water in a sink and dry them.
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Old 11-08-2015, 05:56 PM   #6
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Really need to test gas pressure on the outlet of the gas valve, before replacing any parts. It's nothing more then a guess otherwise. Very well could be another issue other then a failed gas valve.
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Old 11-08-2015, 06:50 PM   #7
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Also I saw on another thread to check for continuity on the gas valve terminals. I get nothing. Shouldn't there be some continuity?
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Old 11-08-2015, 09:22 PM   #8
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There should be. I have never had one have a open circuit at the valve as it is a resistance coil/electromagnet but it is possible.
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Old 11-09-2015, 07:39 AM   #9
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"The furnace blower turns on for a few seconds, then the igniter begins to glow." Which blower turns on? ...The purge blower or the main blower? The main blower should not start until after the burners are are fired. This allows the furnace to preheat.
I saw a case where the main blower started immediately when the call for heat was made and the furnace would not light. The LED code said it was the flame sensor. A new flame sensor did not fix the problem. I finally found the problem to be a loose ground connection. It was the green ground wire terminated under the motor capacitor bracket screw. Recheck all connections.
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Old 11-09-2015, 07:46 AM   #10
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It's the purge blower. Everything I've read seems to indicate the gas valve is dead. Everything works properly up until the point the gas valve should turn on. I get 24 vac at the valve buy no gas. I have zero resistance across the terminals on the valve.

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