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-   -   York Diamond 80 Intermitten Flame (http://www.diychatroom.com/f17/york-diamond-80-intermitten-flame-57071/)

Setdyi 11-12-2009 04:08 PM

York Diamond 80 Intermitten Flame
 
1. Initial Error was 4 red flashes - limit switches open
- turned unit off and restarted and the unit would flame for about 1m and then flame would go out and 4 flash error would appear.
- since this was a replacement board I replaced all limit switches (3 in all) and the board.

Error still existed.

2. Had a team look at the unit, heat exchanger, blower, and induction motor all checked out ok. We narrowed it down to the flame sensor needed to replace. Tried cleaning it and the error persisted.
- Initial green light
- followed by series of amber flashes
- ending with flame going out and 4 red flashes.

3. Replaced the flame sensor and problem still existed.

4. Replaced the roll-out switches and the ignitor and the problem flames longer (i.e., more slow amber flashes) about 2m, then the same error returns 4 red-flashes and flame out.

5. REPLACED FILTER AS WELL

Need help:eek:

yuri 11-12-2009 05:02 PM

Just because you replaced the limits does not mean they were faulty. They may have been doing there job. You need to check for 24 volts from each side of them to the C on the board or ground. If one is open it will lose voltage and you can tell us which one it is. If it is the rollout switches tripping (manual reset) then you have a cracked heat exchanger/overfired unit/venting problem. You should also check the temp rise thru the furnace and compare it to the specs on the rating/model plate. Ie 40-80 deg temp rise. Check the supply temp a foot downstream from the top of the bonnet/plenum and subtract the return temp. If it is too high then you have a dirty A/C coil, fan too slow, undersized ductwork or some vents/dampers closed. My sister has a Diamopnd 80 and the tin foil insulation inside the furnace by the heat exchanger came loose and this can block airflow and cut out on the limit. Had to secure it with some washers and sheet metals screws or buy some DuroDyne pin type fasteners for tin foil insulation for ductwork. SAH type
http://www.durodynecanada.ca/canada/..._fast_menu.htm

Setdyi 11-12-2009 08:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yuri (Post 352293)
Just because you replaced the limits does not mean they were faulty. They may have been doing there job. You need to check for 24 volts from each side of them to the C on the board or ground. If one is open it will lose voltage and you can tell us which one it is. If it is the rollout switches tripping (manual reset) then you have a cracked heat exchanger/overfired unit/venting problem. You should also check the temp rise thru the furnace and compare it to the specs on the rating/model plate. Ie 40-80 deg temp rise. Check the supply temp a foot downstream from the top of the bonnet/plenum and subtract the return temp. If it is too high then you have a dirty A/C coil, fan too slow, undersized ductwork or some vents/dampers closed. My sister has a Diamopnd 80 and the tin foil insulation inside the furnace by the heat exchanger came loose and this can block airflow and cut out on the limit. Had to secure it with some washers and sheet metals screws or buy some DuroDyne pin type fasteners for tin foil insulation for ductwork. SAH type
http://www.durodynecanada.ca/canada/..._fast_menu.htm

We did check heat exchanger and it was not crack and all was well with AC coil as well. I may have a bird nest or something on top of the house that I may need to check because all dampers are open and all vents are in check as well. Limit switch is obviously tripping (high Limit) do to overheating, so it must be a blockage somewhere, and I am thinking on top of the house. Any other suggestions. I am getting 24 volts on high limit switch, but opens up when it trips (gets to hot in the exchange area). Also during the 2.5 min run time nothing really seams to be blowing out of the vent closest to the unit, which should be at a tremendous force. Open to other helpful hints.

:eek:

Setdyi 11-13-2009 10:27 PM

One more thing
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Setdyi (Post 352384)
We did check heat exchanger and it was not crack and all was well with AC coil as well. I may have a bird nest or something on top of the house that I may need to check because all dampers are open and all vents are in check as well. Limit switch is obviously tripping (high Limit) do to overheating, so it must be a blockage somewhere, and I am thinking on top of the house. Any other suggestions. I am getting 24 volts on high limit switch, but opens up when it trips (gets to hot in the exchange area). Also during the 2.5 min run time nothing really seams to be blowing out of the vent closest to the unit, which should be at a tremendous force. Open to other helpful hints.

:eek:

I check the voltage across the high limit switch and it is the high limit switch that is actually tripping open, when the flame goes out. So the temp is building up in the exchanger and then emergency mode kicks in and the limit switch trips.

I removed the vent tube just in case the vent may be plugged at the top of the house, but the same results happened again, so it is local to the exchanger, which we checked and there are no cracks or rust on top and bottom of the unit.

Can anyone help me figure this one out? :eek:

beenthere 11-14-2009 04:45 AM

Did you look at both sides of the evap coil. Or just the top side.

Setdyi 11-14-2009 12:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by beenthere (Post 352903)
Did you look at both sides of the evap coil. Or just the top side.

No I have not looked at either side of the evap coil. Just took off the front panel this morning to see if I see anything hanging down from the condensation tray, but there are no visible obstructions. Heat is just not getting out from the unit, which makes me think that blower fan must not be functioning properly, although it seems to be working fine.
:eek:

beenthere 11-14-2009 12:41 PM

Dirty A/C coils don't let air flow through them. And cause lots of problems like this.

Setdyi 11-14-2009 12:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by beenthere (Post 353014)
Dirty A/C coils don't let air flow through them. And cause lots of problems like this.

So it looks like I have to take this unit apart and clean these coils, what's the best and most efficient way to clean these coils

Setdyi 11-14-2009 02:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by beenthere (Post 353014)
Dirty A/C coils don't let air flow through them. And cause lots of problems like this.


Coils on both sides look clean. :eek:

yuri 11-14-2009 02:37 PM

Buy a new capacitor for the fan motor or test it with a meter. It may be weak and not getting the motor up to speed. Or if all else fails call a Pro, we are running out of ideas.

beenthere 11-14-2009 02:59 PM

If teh cap isn't the problem.
Looks can be deceiving.
The coil can still be dirty.

yuri 11-14-2009 03:37 PM

Or the motor itself is slowing down. When the windings go they can still run but not have the right amount of speed/horsepower. See that a few times.

Setdyi 11-14-2009 06:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Setdyi (Post 353013)
No I have not looked at either side of the evap coil. Just took off the front panel this morning to see if I see anything hanging down from the condensation tray, but there are no visible obstructions. Heat is just not getting out from the unit, which makes me think that blower fan must not be functioning properly, although it seems to be working fine.
:eek:


Well it looks like the blower is not motor is not turning so that it explains the non air movement. It is crazy because it was working. Any ideas as to why it would stop at this point.:eek:

yuri 11-14-2009 06:20 PM

Is it very hot to touch? If so it may be seizing up and may need a new capacitor. If it is not hot then you need to check for voltage to the motor from the board.

Setdyi 11-14-2009 06:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yuri (Post 353114)
Is it very hot to touch? If so it may be seizing up and may need a new capacitor. If it is not hot then you need to check for voltage to the motor from the board.

No the blower mower is not getting any power at all because it is not even rotating. Thus why the heat is not bing pushed through. So does this sound like just the CAP.


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