I had to turn on the AC for the first time this season today and the vents were blowing out worm air.
I went out to check if the outside unit was on and it was.
The strange thing is that both the fan and pump are on but seem to be running much slower than normal.
The high line is not getting hot and the low line is not getting cold.
I believe that the fan and pump are single stage and the capacitor is a "dual run capacitor" not a "start capacitor"
Question is..
Can the dual run capacitor be bad but still be able to run the unit at a slower speed?
If the freon was low, wouldn't the low pressure switch not allow the unit to come on at all?
Is there anything else that can cause this?
Please help...Due to the economy I am unemployed and cannot pay to have a tech come out :^(
Is it really slowed down. or does it just look that way to you, now that its not cooling right. Lots of people don't take notice tot he fan speed when their A/C is working.
You may have had 238 volts at the contactor when the A/C wasn't running. But what is the voltage when it is running.
I take notice to the fan speed all the time.....now that its slower.....I can hear the pump, has a slight gargling buzzing noise, but I do believe its running. Figured it always sounded like that....just more noticeable with out the fan at full blast. Pretty much sound like a normal compressor to me.
I checked the Volts and it is 238 to 239 on the feed side when off.......and 238 to 239 on both sides when on.
In addition.....last year it was not working so well and the High line WAS getting hot, but the Low line was NOT getting cold.
My outdoor condensing fan runs at a lower speed in the evening when the outdoor temperature drops. Maybe your's does the same and you are also low on refrigerant.
Some units have a 2 speed condensor fan which runs slower in the evening when it is cooler. Goes to high speed at around 70degF. You need a clamp on ammeter to see if the compressor is drawing any amps. Your inline meter is not suitable. Check this one: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...eters+&+Meters&prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1
One other thought: Check the points on the contactor to see how badly they are burnt. Could be a high resistance reducing current flow across the contactor.
+1.... I'm not HVAC but after replacing my Dual -Run Capacitor I could not get my compressor to start until I replaced the contactor which was not expensive to replace. My condensor fan was rotating slowly and the compressor was not running when I found the DRC rusty and bulging.
Not to change the subject....but still somewhat relevant ...what type of meter should I purchase to measure a capacitor's capacitance for yearly HVAC maintenance?
If the compressor is running. Your just about out of refrigerant. Even if its not running, your just about out of gas. Looks like it has a few ounces in it.
Needs to be leaked checked. And the leak repaired. And then it can be recharged.
Shut it off ASAP. Looks like it has no freon and the compressor will now overheat and get damaged! Even a 1/2 lb sitting idle should get you a higher reading. Looks like you just have air in there now.
The outside unit is under warranty so if the leak is in the unit they will have to fix it free of charge.
If the leak is between the unit and the attic.........Well I guess I get to spent $400 plus to have the leak found and fixed, and about 8 pounds of r22 :furious:
DO NOT touch the condensor when this is happening!! Your compressor may be shorting and backfeeding voltage to the motor and causing it to run slow. The next thing may be the relief valve and or fusite plug blowing and the whole compressor shorting out. Get a tech to check it.
Read these posts for more info:http://www.diychatroom.com/f17/noise-carlyle-compressor-hissing-sound-40239/
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