Weathermaker 9200 Ignitor fails to light
I have a 1994/1995 Carrier Weathermaker 9200 (manual indicates 58MXA/58MCA). It is installed in the basement of our 2 story home. When we woke this morning we found it had stoped working, not sure what the original problem code was, because I mistakenly flipped the power switch to it before I could check. What I have found in following the troubleshooting guide:
* Code 11 because I turned power off.
* Code 14 Ignition lockout failure to ignite in 4 attempts
* Code 34
Verified Gas valve is ON
Verified Gas Manual Shutoff is ON
Verified Green wire is connected to internal furnace frame
Disconnected R-Thermostat connection from control center.
Initiated component test sequence
Inducer motor runs
Ignitor fails to glow orange/white hot by the end of the 17 sec. test
Blower Motor runs at heat speed
Blower motor runs at cool speed
Next step in trouble shooting guide is to check for 115v between pin 1 and 2 on the ignitor harness.
When I try to perform that test...I am unable to get a consistent read of volts. I do notice that as soon as I pull the ignitor harness off of the control center, that the blower fan begins on heat speed (fast).
My questions are:
#1 Is this observation indicatove of a different problem, or that I am performing the test wrong?
I have repeated the tests about 4 times, and only once was I able to get a few volts on my meter. And in none of the tests did the ignitor start glowing.
I am confused as to whether I should be checking for continuity in my ignitor harness, replacing my control center, or replacing my ignitor...
Any suggestions from someone with experience in this particular furnace?
You should get 120 volts at the igniter when it is trying for ignition. Sounds like the board is bad. You can test the continuity of the igniter. Should be between 50-85 ohms.
the Inducer Draft motor strat is the stats call for heat,the air going thru the burner section should be making the air pressure switch(silver round about 4" in diamete with 2 rubber orange tubes on it and a pair of low voltage wires also.these are the 2 wires that need to close to tell the ignition board to start the sequence for the burner section.TO TEST ONLY remove the 2 wires off the air proof switch and put them together(paper clip stripped wire and restart the furnace..if the ignitor sparks its the air proof...if it doesdn't its the board again for testing only do you jump this controller that tells the board air is being supplied by the ID motor
I checked for 120 volts on the connectors which directly attach to the ignitor (off of the control board) and got 118-120 volts each time it tried to light. But when I checked for ohms on the other end of the connector (the igniter side) it gave an open reading, no ohns, no continuity. So I am hopeful that the control board is good (because it provites the expected volts) and that it is just the igniter which is bad since no coninuity would mean a "crack."Now where to find a reasonablly priced igniter on a sunday evening. :) Is this something I could pick up at grainger tomorrow, or do I have to order from a carrier dealer?
Thanks for the help folks! :)
Not sure. It is however a huge pain in the arze to replace if your venting goes out the right side of the furnace. VERY easy to crack/break the new igniter as it is held in place with a spring clip. If you damage the red gasket for it then you can have ignition problems. I would recommend you get a Carrier tech to replace it. I have replaced dozens of them and hated every one.:mad:
So, were you able to get your ignitor replaced? If you buy one at a hardware store, they will usually just have lead wires and some ceramic wire nuts in the package, where you have to cut off and reuse the old plug. The OEM Norton igntiors LH33ZS004 have the Carrier molex plug on them. The easy way to change them is to NOT remove the entire spring clip from the burner box, but to GENTLY pry open the spring clips on the bottom that actually hold the ignitor in place, pull the old ignitor out while holding the clip assembly in place, install the new one. And if it's a 40 or 60K BTU furnace.....good luck.....those aren't easy ANYWAY you do it.
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