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-   -   water pooling in air handler Heil ebx3600a (http://www.diychatroom.com/f17/water-pooling-air-handler-heil-ebx3600a-150703/)

SouthLake 07-18-2012 01:01 PM

water pooling in air handler Heil ebx3600a
 
I have a Heil EBX3600a in the attic. the unit works GREAT. i can typically cool my home to below 75 degrees even when the OAT is over 100. that said, im starting to see something strange.

On return side of the unit where the filter slides in... there is a lot of water pooling up in the channel right below the filter. its a small space, an inch wide, 1/4" tall directly below the 20x20x1 filter. there is a steady stream of water pooling in there, dripping out the drip hole below the filter, going into the catch pan, and out the 'emergency' drain.

whats baffling me is the regular drain that connects to the air handler is dry. i can blow compressed air through it, and it is not blocked.

im not sure where to start...

scottmcd9999 07-18-2012 02:27 PM

Do you have a trap on the primary drain line? Pull-through air handlers need a trap on the line, otherwise they can create a vacuum by trying to pull air back through the drain line. Generally this only happens when air flow is getting restricted (dirty filter or coil, perhaps?).

SouthLake 07-18-2012 02:34 PM

ah ha!
the filter was getting dirty. and after i changed it i noticed the flow of water into the channel beneath the filter seemed to slow / stop. I could then hear gurgling type noises from the primary drain.

I do not think the main line is 'trapped'. the HVAC technician who installed it had it set up with a pump. i removed the pump and just used PVC pipe to plumb it out via gravity. i did this a year or so ago. I installed a T in the line pointing up into the air to vent the line. that was all i did though...

scottmcd9999 07-18-2012 02:43 PM

You should install a P-Trap in the line, somewhere close to the coil. This allows the drain to avoid the vacuum situation described earlier. You can build one with a few elbows and such, or you can buy one at the big box home improvement stores.

The drain doesn't need a vent. It's not a sealed system, and (hopefully) doesn't connect to the sanitary system. You can leave the Tee, but put a piece of PVC with a cap on it.

SouthLake 07-18-2012 02:46 PM

that sounds like what i have set up. the PVC comes out of the unit about 4"s, the i have a T that points up. the bottom goes through to the rest of the pipe. The top part of the T, i put a fitting on, with an elbow to act as a vent into the open attic

sound right?

SouthLake 07-18-2012 02:50 PM

okay, just googled what a P-Trap was... sounds like i need to install a trap like the one on a regular sink drain.

scottmcd9999 07-18-2012 02:57 PM

1 Attachment(s)
No, just sounds like you have an open Tee about 4" away from your coil exit. You need a trap. See the image attached here for a better illustration.

SouthLake 07-18-2012 03:08 PM

i def do not have that, thank you Scott. i have limited space between the air handler and the insulation below. i might be able to get the required 4"s down.

what purpose does this serve?

scottmcd9999 07-18-2012 03:54 PM

Provides a water column trap that doesn't allow the blower to suck air back through the drain. Similar to your sanitary traps on your sink.

You can use a "running trap", which is a piece of 3/4" pipe that has been heated and formed as a shallow trap:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_137599-1815-...ductId=3467865

They're not as effective as others, since the water column is fairly small.

kt82 07-21-2012 08:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scottmcd9999 (Post 968913)
No, just sounds like you have an open Tee about 4" away from your coil exit. You need a trap. See the image attached here for a better illustration.

were does the emergency overflow fit into this picture?
Mine is only 1/2'' higher than the main

kt82 07-21-2012 08:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scottmcd9999 (Post 968901)
You should install a P-Trap in the line, somewhere close to the coil. This allows the drain to avoid the vacuum situation described earlier. You can build one with a few elbows and such, or you can buy one at the big box home improvement stores.

The drain doesn't need a vent. It's not a sealed system, and (hopefully) doesn't connect to the sanitary system. You can leave the Tee, but put a piece of PVC with a cap on it.

were does the emergency overflow fit into the vacuum system?
Mine is only 1/2'' higher than the main and dumps into the overflow pan

biggles 07-21-2012 09:30 AM

commercial traps work 1" between red lines trap the air positive or negative at the coil will also work on residentail as long as the trap is connected closect to that 3/4" female screw in adapter http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...MVC-123S-1.jpg

turnermech 07-21-2012 01:56 PM

You not having a trap is IMO your problem. This only shows its self when the system runs long periods of time to satisfy the thermostat. This happens when it gets really hot and humid. If it was cooler the system would drain in the off cycle. Now you making more water than the pan can handle during each run cycle or the pan fills enough so you have blow by from the fan.



Look on the internet for something called E-Z trap. It is a kit that has a clear trap, has a clean out, and instructions.


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