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10-23-2011, 09:12 PM
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#16
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Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 21
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Upstairs...HOT in summer, cold in winter
Quote:
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Originally Posted by Dooggins1
This is the model number.
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Sorry this is a better picture.
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10-23-2011, 09:13 PM
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#17
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Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 21
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Upstairs...HOT in summer, cold in winter
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Originally Posted by jkv
You will need a manometer to check the CFMs you should be able to rent one. look on you model # for the size, if you dont know post the number and we will tell you the size.
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This is a better pic.
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10-23-2011, 09:19 PM
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#18
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Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 21
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Upstairs...HOT in summer, cold in winter
Quote:
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Originally Posted by biggles
starve the 1st floor and make the second as the first floor was. with adjustments seal the discharge fles any place it is leaking..check the discharge duct on the furnace 360 all the way around it....take it you have ceiling return up on the second back to the furnace in the attic.the air should be the most closest o the furnace you have it backwards the duct dampers are starving the 2nd flr..where is the stat
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I seen no dampeners on any of the discharge ducts.
These are some pics of my furnace. I'm guessing the two big ducts coming out of the top are the returns but I'm not sure. I really don't know much about hvac but I now a lot about welding if anyone had any questions about that.
Also the last pic is where one of the ducts coming off of the main one goes over and into another distributing box and more flex duct comes out of it.
Last edited by Dooggins1; 10-23-2011 at 09:22 PM.
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10-23-2011, 09:34 PM
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#19
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 121
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Upstairs...HOT in summer, cold in winter
You have a 3 ton unit you should be moving 1200 CFMs. But if you have flex it wont matter you will have a restriction in there and not get the air that you need. If they put in double return vents, close the top in the winter and the bottom in the summer that will help. If you are not able to get are read a manometer, put your hand about 3 feet from the register your air flow should stop there.
Last edited by jkv; 10-23-2011 at 09:38 PM.
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10-23-2011, 09:47 PM
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#20
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 121
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Upstairs...HOT in summer, cold in winter
All your pics came up and your problem is that much flex. The only way to get that air moving right is to replace that with insulated ducts. If you look at the flex in pic 2 or3 you can see the resriction in that one but the ripples in the flex also restrict them as well so the longer the more resriction you will have. I hope this helps but the electric bill that you will save will give you a nice return.
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10-23-2011, 10:06 PM
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#21
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Average Joe/ex-Navy IC3
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Midwest - Central Illinois
Posts: 9,273
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Upstairs...HOT in summer, cold in winter
Doggins, with all of the goose necks that the ducts are making, no wonder why you are having problems. First thing is to get the ducts straight, and if needing radius bends, use hard piping to do that between the exit into the room, and the flex duct.
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10-24-2011, 08:02 PM
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#22
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Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 21
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Upstairs...HOT in summer, cold in winter
Quote:
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Originally Posted by jkv
All your pics came up and your problem is that much flex. The only way to get that air moving right is to replace that with insulated ducts. If you look at the flex in pic 2 or3 you can see the resriction in that one but the ripples in the flex also restrict them as well so the longer the more resriction you will have. I hope this helps but the electric bill that you will save will give you a nice return.
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If I block the intake upstairs then will that lower the out flow?
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10-24-2011, 08:53 PM
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#23
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Long Island
Posts: 3,199
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Upstairs...HOT in summer, cold in winter
is that furnace return ducted from the 2nd floor ceiling space or is that a filter I see and open  attic return in the first pix?like said in the first pix that flex bend is a retriction to where ever that flex supplies....
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10-25-2011, 08:17 AM
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#24
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Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 21
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Upstairs...HOT in summer, cold in winter
Quote:
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Originally Posted by biggles
is that furnace return ducted from the 2nd floor ceiling space or is that a filter I see and open  attic return in the first pix?like said in the first pix that flex bend is a retriction to where ever that flex supplies....
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The big duct with the goose neck in the first pic is the supply for the upstairs and that is where I'm having my issues. The big duct in the second pic is the return from the second floor. It doesn't seem to be an easy way to get that goose neck out since t comes it of the top. Any suggestions?
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10-25-2011, 10:34 AM
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#25
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Average Joe/ex-Navy IC3
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Midwest - Central Illinois
Posts: 9,273
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Upstairs...HOT in summer, cold in winter
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dooggins1
The big duct with the goose neck in the first pic is the supply for the upstairs and that is where I'm having my issues. The big duct in the second pic is the return from the second floor. It doesn't seem to be an easy way to get that goose neck out since t comes it of the top. Any suggestions?
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Already suggested how to solve. You will need to go back to post #21.
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10-27-2011, 08:33 PM
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#26
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Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 21
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Upstairs...HOT in summer, cold in winter
Quote:
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Originally Posted by gregzoll
Already suggested how to solve. You will need to go back to post #21.
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Hey great news!! I took that 12" duct off that was in the first picture I believe. Turns out the damper was 3/4 of the way closed. I opened it and put the duct back on but when I did that the damper closed again so I just removed it and it has dramatically improved the airflow. I m currently in the process of getting a 90 degree hard pipe to maybe help it even more. Just wanted to say thanks for all the help from everyone.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Dooggins1 For This Useful Post:
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10-27-2011, 08:44 PM
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#27
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Average Joe/ex-Navy IC3
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Midwest - Central Illinois
Posts: 9,273
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Upstairs...HOT in summer, cold in winter
You can actually get the dampers that are autocontrolled, that are bladders, but they cost more. If you ever decide to zone it out between upstairs and downstairs, that may be something to look into.
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