Upstairs baseboards not getting hot

secutanudu

I have a mono-flo system. My first floor is all cast-iron radiators. Second floor is all tube&fin baseboards. It is all on one zone (I know this is a no-no). But my baseboards don't even get lukewarm. They are absolutely cold. even when the boiler is criculating. The aquastat on the boiler is set to max out at 160F. I never use the upstairs (till now).

All of my cast-iron radiators are set up with a normal T to feed, and a mono-flow "venturi" tee on the return, like this:



If I am looking correctly, it seems the baseboards on the 2nd floor are fed from the basement with a monoflow tee like this one on the supply, and return with a normal tee. Seems opposite from the radiators. I can touch the main right at the tee pictured below and it is very hot. If I touch the pipe about 8" away (not on the main, where it branches to feed the radiators) it is barely lukewarm. Somehow water is not being pumped through the baseboards. Do I need to add a monoflow on the return, facing the other direction?

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Andrew

fy171

you need monoflow tee on the supply and return

secutanudu

Is it different for a baseboard than for a radiator? I assume so...because i only have mono-flo tees on the returns on my radiators and they work fine.

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Andrew

Scuba_Dave

Any way to bleed the 2nd floor pipes ?
Might be air in the system

secutanudu

I don't think there's a bleeder valve at all up there...any other way?

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Andrew

Scuba_Dave

Do you have constant fresh water feed to the system ?
Mine has a water valve that can be opened or shut

Is the 2nd floor all on one loop ?
Or is each baseboard on its own loop ?

secutanudu

There is a freshwater feed to the boiler which is currently open.

I think each baseboard is its own loop.

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Andrew

Scuba_Dave

Each of my radiators can be bled
The baseboards I have seen have been a one pipe system
I'm not sure how you flush air out of what you have
Have you pulled some of the end caps to look for bleeder valves ?

secutanudu

Just checked, no bleeder valves. The pipe is exposed for a few inches in the back of a closet, maybe I could add a bleeder in there.

I am starting to think it's the monoflo tees causing the problem. I've never done any plumbing work on my heating loop before. I have 3 valves right near the boiler. One on the send, one on the return, and one on the freshwater feed. I am assuming I can just close all 3 of those, cut the pipe, and sit there with a couple of buckets till the water stops coming out?

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Andrew

operagost

I don't mean to derail the discussion, but aren't hot water systems most efficient at about 180F? I do see that have radiators, which may be uncomfortably hot to the touch at 180 (if not enclosed) and that may be why you have the system at 160F.

secutanudu

I normally keep it at 180, I just have it turned down a little since it isn't that cold yet,

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Andrew

Scuba_Dave

I actually have my boiler @140 right now
180 is way too hot with a kid in the house
Even at 140 as it shoots over that temp the radiators can get pretty hot

3rd degree burns from water temps:
160 degree water takes 1 second to burn a child
130 degree water takes 30 seconds

beenthere

What is the pressure reading on your boilers gauge?

Any chance the circulator was changed out either before you moved in. or shortly after you moved in.

secutanudu

I'll have to check the pressure, but I THINK it's normally around....50ish. The circ hasn;t been changed since i moved in, and I dont think right before.

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Andrew

beenthere

50ish. Is well above normal for a residential boiler.