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Old 09-11-2012, 08:59 PM   #31
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unfinished basement comfort


sorry I can\t tell too much from the nameplate as I don't have any cross reference manuals..however it's been a long time since I've seen an Aero burner..not even sure if they are still in business..furnace could be in excess of 20 yrs old but, not sure I can tell by the nozzle size ratings of 1,0 and 1.25 gph that the furnace is firing at either 144,000 BTU per hour OR around 180,000 BTUH..enough to heat a pretty large house depending on construction/insulation/weather etc. I live near Belleville ON..2500 sqft home but built 20 yrs ago with R24 in walls and R40 in attic so, only use 0.60 gph nozzle and have plenty capacity to spare even at minus 25 C

Sorry ..not a tin man so, no answers there but, your plan to cut access and nail then patch sounds good

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Old 09-11-2012, 09:10 PM   #32
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We're in Montreal. regular gas for the car just hit $1.53 today...I wonder what will happen to oil??

We get pretty much the same temperature. The house is a split level built in 1961. There is no insulation in the walls. Brick, tar paper, wood and gyp rock. I'm told the entire exterior wall cavity is filled with wood (like insulation) so there is a small R value. The attic is not very tall and they have put in the max possible amount of pink insulation.

I know that all the furnances are way too big for these houses. Was done when oil was 5 cents a gallon. So who cared.

It's going to be our first winter in this house. The house is approx 3500 sq. ft. including basement and 1 car garage.

How can I check the size of the nozzle? if I cut down the GPH without sacrificing comfort that would be good!

thanks!
terry
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Old 09-11-2012, 09:14 PM   #33
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maybe as a selector switch between heat/ac/heat pump? OR prior equipment?
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Old 09-11-2012, 09:21 PM   #34
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Hey thanks for all your advice tonight! I think I'll go crash and watch some TV now! I'm going to call the service guy that used to take care of the system for the ole lady that lived here before me. I have him come by for the winter tuneup, and to discuss a few things...

1) Should I close up the crack returns in the basement? Or maybe they're good for this ole house.
2) How much $ to get the low speed fan working during idle.
3) What size nozzle do I have, should i go smaller?
4) Is the system optimally tuned? The thermostat determines when to switch from heat pump to oil at a specific outside temp. Hydro Quebec also provides a control for -12C but it's not connected. Not even the famous red light. Probably switches over at -8C.
5) How old is this beast? Is the chamber in good condition? Don't want to have a crack and smoke in the house.

6) The really big question! Should I switch to an electric furnace and drop oil and the tank! We're paying the DT rate here. it's 41 cents a day flat rate and 4.3 cents a KW and 20 cents when colder than -12C. If I go all electric it changes to the D rate (same flat rate, 5.32 cents frist 30KW per day, 7.51 cents after)


thanks all!
I look forward to any and all comments and suggestions.

Cheers!
and special thanks to the guys that help me tonight! Especially TechPappy!

Last edited by tls1; 09-11-2012 at 09:29 PM.
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Old 09-11-2012, 09:38 PM   #35
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#4 looks like a 6" duct, its not able to move as much air as #3 use to. Low expanding foam will work.
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Old 09-11-2012, 09:52 PM   #36
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there's so much leakage that it doesn't matter if it's a 6" pipe. the combined size of the original 3 is much greater than the main. Further, they disappear into walls where they reduce down to much smaller as well.

Expanding foam to fill those cracks...eh? ok. Sounds messy

thanks!
Terry
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Old 09-11-2012, 09:55 PM   #37
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Have to take your time doing it, and its not bad to do. The 6" is more restrictive, so it pulls less then the others. After sealiong the return duct work. You'll probably have to add another to make up for the air that is not being pulled from the basement.
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Old 09-12-2012, 12:28 AM   #38
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do not go to nozzle smaller than min on rating plate 1.0 gph furnace not designed for anything smaller. could cause condensation and sulphuric acid deterioration of flue etc., not sure about going to total electric back up...hydro rates pretty good but electric furnace draws huge ...local tech will be able to advise..maybe hi efficiency propane if natural gas not available but hydro could be better depending on cost of gas...AND could get rid of oil tank..should be date on oil tank..anything over 20 years ..ins companies here will not accept.

decisions decisions..and BTW ..yer welcome
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Old 09-12-2012, 07:29 AM   #39
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ok for the nozzle!

We do not have natural gas on my street. Propane sounds nice on paper, but you need a big monster ytank in the back yard. They fill it like oil tank and for some weird reason it's very expensive here. Not really feasible.

It's oil or electric here. Oil is over $1 a liter here and electricity is super cheap (for now) in Quebec.

When the furnace or tank reach end of life, I will have to serious consider switch fuels to electric. I think tank is 2001 because thats the year they dug it out of the ground in the back yard and replaced it with an indoor tank. Not sure about furnace... gotta be 20-25 years (house is 52 years)?

Next steps are to call for inspection/tune up/fan speed stuff. And to seal up those opening in the returns and possible add a proper return in the basement that is controllable (flow wise).

Cheers!
Terry
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Old 09-12-2012, 10:40 AM   #40
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Sounds Good! stick with heat pump and electric back up...much less maintenance on heating side..just make sure good filters installed to avoid fouling the heating elements.

Gotta go wash the new van..just got back from trip with 5 grand kids!!!
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Old 09-16-2012, 07:31 AM   #41
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Hi all,

I tried sealing up those 5 gaps where the main return meets each of the wooden returns. I decided to use a novel approach as a test. I used a vaccum to clean up all the debris and dust sitting on top of the main return. Then I used 2" wide duct tape. I connect 3 strips together to make a 5" wide strip which I then proceed to use to seal the gaps.

I'll be the first to admit it is not a long term solution, but good enough for a test. Other options include using spray foam (ouf what a mess) and also opening the main return with tin cutters, and screwing the tin to the wood, and then sealing up the cut tin.

Anyways, I believe I sealed up at least 75% of the gaps. I was unable to verify the back side of the connection where the main vent runs along the wall.

The basement door still sucked shut. I think it might be a little less strong...it's hard to tell and measure...

So off I go snooping for more cracks and crevices...

Any ideas of suggestions? What is the tool of choice to find them?

cheers!
terry
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Old 09-16-2012, 07:46 AM   #42
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Smoke stick. Or remove end cap and visually inspect.
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Old 09-16-2012, 07:49 AM   #43
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Smoke stick?

I was thinking insence. But my wife hates the smell. If it gets into the return, the whole house will shtink. She'll chop off my boys .

Do they sell these smoke sticks at the big box stores?

thanks!
Terry
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Old 09-16-2012, 07:54 AM   #44
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Not that I know of. You can order them online.
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Old 09-16-2012, 11:44 AM   #45
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Have you opened the supply air vents in the basement...that will balance air pressures..who knows ..maybe the remaining leaks can act as your basement return,,but, if you finish the basement you WOULD have to find those leaks and repair them...Also..(you may have mentioned this..but check around the duct work at the furnace and around the fan access door for any holes, gaps or leaks...if equipped with humidifier ..is it installed correctly/loose and leaking thereby causing an imbalance? NEXT STEP..tear it all out and start over..lol

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