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eric woodall 12-31-2012 03:30 PM

unbalanced cooling
My wife and I own a 1983 Wyck doublewide on a permanent block foundation. The natural gas furnace/ac unit inside is a Carrier, model #27MH120101, coupled to a Ducane outside unit, model AC10B48A. We have had problems with the cooling, as on a 95degreeF summer day inside temperature will not drop below 80degreesF. Vent airflow from end of house opposite evaporator coil isn't nearly as good as other end of house. I have checked all ductwork under the house for air leaks, and cannot feel anything. The ductwork is showing signs of condensation on opposite end of house through the covering (drips). I also pushed up on the vent directly under the evap. coil to see if the seal was tight and received what felt like a 110 volt shock. I found nothing putting one probe of my voltmeter to the ductwork and the negative probe in the ground hole of a power socket. I suppose I am asking if it is time to replace my heating/ac unit and, if so, would extensive re-insulating of the floor ducts be necessary, as I fear? I have pulled my hair out trying to come up with some answers. Any ideas?

eric woodall 12-31-2012 04:08 PM

cooling update
I wasn't thorough enough in my last post: Ducane unit was installed 7 years ago by the previous owners because of lightning damage. The ac was recharged two years ago, 1 pound added. On hot summer days the compressor and inside fan run continuously and only shut off for short periods late at night. Our power bill during the summer has exceeded $400.00 per month.

carmon 12-31-2012 04:30 PM

and the question is.................................:)

carmon 12-31-2012 04:37 PM

still no question......................:eek:

beenthere 12-31-2012 04:41 PM

I think that coil is only good for 3.5 tons.

eric woodall 12-31-2012 08:15 PM

question amended
I suppose my question is whether anyone out there has had these problems with mobile home-type square ducting under the floor. I am wondering if I will be okay with re-insulating the floor ducting and installing a new furnace/ac unit, or whether I should install a new unit or heat pump and tear up the ceiling to install ceiling vents. The only thing that makes any sense to me about the inside temperature dropping only 20 degrees on a hot summer day is the evaporator coil is partially clogged in the fins, although I disassembled the cover and sprayed it with coil cleaner.

beenthere 12-31-2012 09:24 PM

May need more then one cleaning.

MH/Modular systems are not always as good as they should be.

eric woodall 12-31-2012 09:44 PM

underfloor vents
I am anticipating having to run new vents if we have to have a new ac/heater system . I am sure the insulation on the underfloor vents is gone or fallen off as condensation drips from the undercovering. I have read that re-insulating by adding wall stud-type paper-backed fiberglass insulation between the joists under the sheet metal vent can lead to serious mold problems. I suspect the entire vent assembly would have to come out on each side of the marriage joint and be rewrapped with foil-type insulation or insulating boards and foil tape. That's why I wonder if it would be better to install ceiling vents, although I have also read that ceiling vents also run through very heated air in the above-ceiling space. Also, the only recirculation feature in the house is a single opening on the ac in-house half of the unit, which is where the air filter is. I can't decide which would be a better long-term solution. There is plenty of insulation in the walls, and we have energy-efficient windows. So I am back at the second question: which is better, in floor or ceiling vents?

carmon 01-01-2013 08:47 PM

both will work..... all in floor here.....

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