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Old 03-05-2014, 08:16 AM   #31
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If you have an iPhone ill FaceTime you so we can get you some heat....

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Old 03-05-2014, 09:18 AM   #32
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It's working!! Heat!! I pushed in the button above the pressure switch, I'll still post a pic of it in a minute, it was tripped. So I want to know why that switch is there and what would trip it. It does have a direct wire from it to the pressure switch and then a wire from it down to the control board. Yes, the pressure switch has the tube behind it to the port.

I think maybe I did something at the thermostat to cause it to trip? Say I set it to 60 degrees. So it heated the room from 60 degrees up to 65 degrees and kicked off like it should. But then say I went over to the tstat and set it to 70 degrees almost immediately after it kicked off. Would something like that cause it to trip/fail?


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Old 03-05-2014, 09:35 AM   #33
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It's a temp limit for your flue pipe. Prob had some back draft do to excessive wind, causing that limit to get hot. Good stuff bro! I admire your determination!

Last edited by hvac27; 03-05-2014 at 09:40 AM.
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Old 03-05-2014, 04:55 PM   #34
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If you have a negative pressure in your house causing wind to come down the chimney it will trip that fumes spill switch. Usually cause by a wood burning fireplace or powerful kitchen exhaust fan sucking too much air out of the house.
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Old 03-05-2014, 07:36 PM   #35
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Check your flue/chimney to make sure it is not obstructed.
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Old 11-03-2015, 04:22 PM   #36
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My furnace went out last night and I thought it might be the igniter since it has failed in the past. I had a spare on hand and so I swapped it out but no luck. The inducer just ran continuously and no glow or blower to be had....

Anyway to make a long story short I found this thread after a few hours searching and it basically saved me hours and likely many $$'s too. It turned out to be the same limit switch (the flue/draft temp limit switch). I cleaned it and reset it and everything seems to be working fine now. I checked all the suggested probable causes for intake or exhaust restrictions and everything seems good. I am going to chalk it up to having run my kitchen fan and bathroom fan at the same time (about 450 cfm total) for quite some time while making a roast chicken yesterday -it was smoking like crazy...

I would however like to eliminate the switch from the equation by replacing it with a new one. In case it trips again in the near future I can know it's not because of an old faulty sensor/switch. Does anyone know how to identify the part? There is only a US Patent number on it. 4349806 Klixon brand. The top of the switch is marked in yellow. My furnace is a Carrier Crusader model: 58SSC075-GC | series 110 and the product number is 58SSC075-C-111GC. I can't seem to find the exact product number online. Is a model number match close enough? Or should I not bother replacing it??

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Old 11-03-2015, 05:45 PM   #37
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I have never had one fail so I would leave it alone. If you want to then you need to get it from Carrier.

americanhvacparts.com or supplyhouse.com may be able to look it up.
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Old 11-03-2015, 05:53 PM   #38
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Thanks for the quick reply and advice Yuri. It's good to hear that you have never experienced one failing. I had nothing to gauge with (ie. whether they fail all the time, some of the time, etc.) I think I will take your advice and leave it be. Time will tell and I will avoid all my house exhaust fans running at the same time when it's cold outside!
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Old 11-03-2015, 06:08 PM   #39
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You also should have new CO detectors in your house. If you have a water heater on that chimney it could be dangerous as they have no protection from downdrafts.
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Old 11-03-2015, 07:08 PM   #40
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Coincidentally I was just thinking about picking up a couple more CO detectors. I only have one right now. (small home - 1K sq.ft.) And I do have a hot water tank on the chimney too. It is an older home with a 'sleeved' brick chimney. Been here 16 years with the same furnace since we got here but put in a new hot water tank and chimney sleeve in the past 5.

I will definitely buy some new CO detectors now. Thank you for all your advice. I really appreciate it.
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Old 11-03-2015, 07:23 PM   #41
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co alarms offer only minimal protection from life threatening co, not low level long term exposure.
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Old 11-03-2015, 07:30 PM   #42
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good point user_12345a.
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Old 11-03-2015, 07:42 PM   #43
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what about a detector like this:
http://www.kidde.com/home-safety/en/...arms/kn-cou-b/
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Old 11-03-2015, 09:55 PM   #44
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All CO detectors provide good safety against high exposures to CO like a blocked chimney unless they are over 10 yrs old. If you want better protection to very low levels over a long period of time you have to spend over $75 to get more sensitive units. Senco makes some expensive units and this Kidde one suggested list price is close to $200. Probably sells for $100 so at that price point is a very accurate well calibrated unit. Parent company is United Technologies which along with Honeywell and SIEMENS is one of the biggest companies in the world. Owns Carrier and a bunch of other companies so it should be a good unit.

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