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Old 03-02-2014, 01:09 PM   #16
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Troubleshooting Gas Furnace


Got the Fieldprice manometer today. Am I going to need to buy additional tubing/pieces? It came with a long tube with a threaded bolt on one end, an adapter tube and an adapter piece. The youtube videos I watched they were using plastic t-joint piece? That just for dual pressure switches?

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Old 03-02-2014, 06:43 PM   #17
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You can get plastic tees from an automotive parts house.
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Old 03-02-2014, 07:04 PM   #18
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all you need to do is take the hose off the pressure switch and get a piece of hose that diameter from a auto parts store/vacuum hose and put it on your manometer and follow its instructions on how to use and zero it. then look at the pressure switch to see if it has a rating like .43"WC. Start the furnace with your manometer on that port the tube attaches to and you drilled out and the pressure switch disconnected and see what the vacuum is. it will run for 30 seconds before locking out and giving you the error code. no need to tee into that line plus it is so short that may be impossible. usually those switches are rated for .4 to .5"WC to close. if it is less than .4 you got a problem with the ventor fan or some obstruction.
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Old 03-02-2014, 10:42 PM   #19
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0.62 inWC was the reading I got. The actual pressure switch does not say the WC rating.

Blue label says:
Model: FS6410-626
P/N: HK06WC073
Mount Diaphragm Vertical

On the back it has numbers.. 011718 1090

Last edited by Jesper; 03-02-2014 at 10:46 PM.
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Old 03-03-2014, 01:05 AM   #20
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Took apart the exhaust piping for any blockage. I did find a small hornets nest, everything else was clear. Still getting the same problem.
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Old 03-03-2014, 07:16 AM   #21
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I worked on thousands of Carriers and those switches are usually.43"WC. You need a new pressure switch. Use that HK number when ordering it as that is what Carrier uses. Try pexsupply.com
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Old 03-03-2014, 09:56 AM   #22
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I couldn't find the exact HK06WC073 being sold, except in used condition on eBay.. but I found out on another site that HK06WC090 is a replacement for the HK06WC073.

Ordered HK06WC090 through pexsupply.com

Quote:
The Part # is HK06WC090 (also replaces old part #s HK660001, HK06WC073, HK06WC074, HK06WC076, HK06WC086 & HK06WC088)! It works on many Carrier/Bryant/Payne gas furnaces!! Thanks for looking and good luck!

Many older switches are metalic, but they have all been updated/replaced with black plastic switches! They are direct replacements!
I should have it in a few days (Wednesday-Thursday)
Thanks
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Old 03-04-2014, 04:27 PM   #23
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Fast shipping! Already got my part next day. Installed it. however there are some small problems. The top wire is too short to reach the bottom connector.. and on both ends of the wires, the connectors are too small.

It does matter which wire goes to which connector, right? The old one and new one had the same labels marked NO and C on the pressure switches. So that top orange wire needs to go to the bottom marked NO as it was on the original pressure switch. The yellow wire does have enough length to reach the top connection, but the end connector is too small to fit on the gold connection.

The orange wire is labeled:
AWM 105C Style 123f YW-1 600V Moisture Resistant 60C LL-39697 CS

Should I just take this wire to a local Lowes or Auto Zone? Would they have what I need?

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Old 03-04-2014, 05:41 PM   #24
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Makes no difference which wire is on which connector. its just a switch.

Just have to get a 1/4" connector and crimp it on the wire instead of that 1/8".
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Old 03-04-2014, 07:35 PM   #25
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Thanks, got it installed. But it's still not working, must be some kind of blockage at the inducer?
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Old 03-04-2014, 10:19 PM   #26
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You either have a blockage somewhere or your board is bad. Pressure switches rarely fail. Have you replaced your control board?

Last edited by hvac27; 03-04-2014 at 10:46 PM.
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Old 03-04-2014, 10:57 PM   #27
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Yes, I replaced the control board.

1. First I replace the ignitor (though I don't think the old one was bad, good to have an extra anyway I guess)
2. Then I replaced the limit switch (figured since I didn't replace my air filter at all, it would be bad and was very dirty when I removed it)
3. Then I replaced the control board (not sure if the old one was bad.. just the old one didn't have a LED light to give me an error code)
4. I also pulled out the blower wheel and took it to the carwash to clean it.
New control board LED light gave me error code 31.
From what I could see, from when I pulled out the limit switch and blower. The heat exchanger is in good condition, no rust or cracks.
5. Checked the exhaust piping and it was clear of all obstructions.
6. Now I replaced the pressure switch.

There is a noise coming form the inducer, so that's why I think it may be something with it and it was quite dirty from what I could tell.

There is also a small switch above the pressure switch (as shown in the above post) but the red button is out.

With the tstat off, and switching the fan to ON, on the tstat, the blower comes on and operates as normal.

I'm sure I wired it all correct, same as it was on the old board.. How would I go about checking the control board? There is nothing that seems to be burned or damaged.

Last edited by Jesper; 03-04-2014 at 11:01 PM.
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Old 03-05-2014, 05:21 AM   #28
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You don't! You check everything around the board. If all your other electrical components are checking out to carrier specs/name plate your board is bad. Make sure all your resettable switches are pushed in. If you can send a pic of the entire furnace, close up of the control board and the wiring diagram. I want to make sure of everything.
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Old 03-05-2014, 05:33 AM   #29
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Post a pic of the switch with the red button sticking out. That may be a spill switch, which would indicate a problem with either the inducer or the flue pipe/chimney itself.
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Old 03-05-2014, 05:58 AM   #30
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Also did you remember to reconnect the hose to the pressure switch?

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