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Old 02-27-2014, 05:06 PM   #1
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Troubleshooting Gas Furnace


Carrier Crusader
Model# 58SSC075-GC
Series 100

I hardly ever replaced my air filter, which is what caused this problem I think. I have a new air filter in place now.

When I turn my thermostat on, I get a call for heat, the little inducer fan starts going and then my control board gives me an error code 13 (33). The ignitor never glows. The blower will come on only when the thermostat is off, and I change the fan from auto to on.

I've replaced the flame roll-out switch down by the burners.
Part# 18HA350 with 18HA449 (replacement part)

I've tested the ignitor and it's showing a good reading.

I took out the blower wheel and took it down to the car wash for cleaning.

I had a HVAC tech come out months ago, he bypassed the door switch.

There is a kind of a squeaking sound coming from the inducer fan when it's running, but the fan is in alignment and it comes on right away.

Also, there is also a switch (for the pressure switch?) at the top that I circled in red, but doesn't seem to be tripped, the red button is out. Looks like the same as the flame-roll out switch, but the flame roll-out switch red button would not stay out.

I'm leaning towards it being the inducer fan at this point, but want to be more certain.

Picture of furnace = i60.tinypic.com/25q84n8.jpg


Last edited by Jesper; 02-27-2014 at 05:26 PM.
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Old 02-27-2014, 05:31 PM   #2
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Troubleshooting Gas Furnace


Your limit control is shot. sits behind the gas valve and above the burners and circled in green
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Old 02-27-2014, 06:06 PM   #3
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Thanks for the quick reply. Sorry, I did replace the limit control switch.
Part #HH12ZA176A L170-40F

Also, the control board is new as well... ICM281 Carrier Bryant CESO110057 Control Circuit Board
Picture of Control Board = i58.tinypic.com/14m8g3a.jpg

Here is a close-up of that area.
Picture = i58.tinypic.com/1zr2jbq.jpg

I did buy a multi-meter, not an expensive clamp one, just one of those $20 ones I picked up at Lowes. So if you want me to try to check any connections for proper amperage please let me know.

Last edited by Jesper; 02-27-2014 at 06:22 PM.
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Old 02-27-2014, 06:48 PM   #4
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on the wires to that limit control is a red diode fusible link. check if it is open with your ohmeter. you should have no voltage across the 2 wires of the limit control when you turn on the tstat and have it call for heat. if you have 24 volts across it then it is open or you got some faulty wire connection on it or to the circuit board. usually when that limit is open the board runs the main fan continuos as it thinks the furnace is overheated. you may have a faulty board. hope you bought a brand new one not some junk from ee-bayy.
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Old 02-27-2014, 08:43 PM   #5
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My wires to the limit control switch don't have a red diode fusible link.
One leads from there down to the control board, the other leads to the flame roll-out switch.
Picture of the two red ends going to my limit control switch = i61.tinypic.com/117e0wp.jpg

Found this picture on Google of what you're talking about I think... but none of my wire leads look like that.
Picture = i59.tinypic.com/fjdcvr.jpg

Testing (to make sure I did it right)
Black to COM
Red to V ohms mA
Set to measure 200 V~
Turned the tstat on and called for heat
Put red pobe to one connection and the black probe to the other connection.
Reading was 0.00

Last edited by Jesper; 02-27-2014 at 08:59 PM.
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Old 02-27-2014, 09:27 PM   #6
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Ok, sorry Yuri. I kind of feel like an idiot now, but I think I am reading the error code wrong. It blinks 3 times fast and 1 time slow.. so I think the error code is really 31?

I see low voltage inducer is in that error code...

The control board was bought on Amazon amazon.com/gp/product/B004I5FD4G/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Limit control switch I bought at midwestapplianceparts.com - they have a lot of parts, but terrible customer service.

Last edited by Jesper; 02-27-2014 at 09:40 PM.
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Old 02-27-2014, 10:30 PM   #7
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I checked the voltage on the inducer, good news is I got a 124 volt reading on it. Bad news is I still don't know why my furnace won't start. I'm thinking maybe it's a pressure switch problem now?

Last edited by Jesper; 02-27-2014 at 10:47 PM.
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Old 02-27-2014, 11:23 PM   #8
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first digit is the number of short flashes and second digit is the long flashes. read the sticker on the back of the door carefully and it will tell you that or the info with the board.
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Old 02-28-2014, 12:00 AM   #9
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Yes, the error code is 31. 3 short flashes and then a long flash.

Error 31:
-Proper vent sizing and condensate pitch or sag.
-Defective inducer motor or start compacitor.
-Vent restriction or high winds.
-Defective pressure switch or connection. If it opens after trial for ignition period, blower will come on for 90 seconds recycle delay.
-Inadequate combustion air supply.
-Disconnected or obstructed pressure tubing.
-Low inducer voltage

I don't think it's vent sizing or restriction. The vent is pretty well enclosed and it goes out and up at 90 degree with an end-cap on it.

Finally found the pressure switch tubing, it's only about 2-3 inches long, it's directly behind the pressure switch and goes straight back into what is the inducer housing I believe?

Not sure what or where the start compacitor is? That the battery like thing on the blower? Maybe I should check that next?

The inducer motor comes on immediately when I call for heat and continuously runs. I got a 124 volt reading on it which I believe is good. Maybe the wheel or other parts are dirty and stuck since I rarely replaced the air filter?

It's been very cold here, I don't know if it's possible something got frozen.. however I don't see any condensation anywhere. This furnace is actually located out in my detached garage.

Last edited by Jesper; 02-28-2014 at 12:07 AM.
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Old 02-28-2014, 08:10 AM   #10
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remove the pressure switch and very carefully pull the tubing off and clean the port on the fan with a drill bit. that tinypic service does not work well for me or show your pics. gets XXX sites. try photobucket or imageshack and put the actual link here.
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Last edited by yuri; 02-28-2014 at 08:15 AM.
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Old 02-28-2014, 09:59 AM   #11
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Removed the pressure switch (Model# FS6410-626) and cleaned around small fan hole (port?) with drill bit

I've added an album on imageshack with all the photos.

https://imageshack.com/a/WLuq/1

Last edited by Jesper; 02-28-2014 at 10:07 AM.
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Old 02-28-2014, 10:22 AM   #12
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York Furnace pressure switch stuck open troubleshooting

You need to clean out that port hole. If the pressure switch is not closing then it may be faulty or the inducer fan is not creating enough draft to close it. Read that link and you may have to buy a manometer to check it properly and there is one in it that I use. Check the chimney for obstructions and remove the exhaust pipe to the chimney from the top of the furnace and look for dead birds in there. Or call a Pro as he has the manometer and experience to check the reasons that switch may not close and your wiring etc etc.

Need help troubleshooting furnace

Read this link to.
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Last edited by yuri; 02-28-2014 at 10:26 AM.
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Old 02-28-2014, 12:03 PM   #13
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Want to make sure I'm not damaging anything before I go sticking things in holes.


Above picture is the hole the pressure switch tubing went to.


Above picture is the hole behind the inducer fan/cage.

Popped the endcap off outside and looked down there with a flashlight, it all looked clear.
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Old 02-28-2014, 01:30 PM   #14
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As far as manometers go, would I need the single or dual?

http://www.amazon.com/UEi-Test-Instr...ords=manometer

http://www.amazon.com/UEi-EM201-Diff...ZH6WKMM8S4NW69

Also, there are some significantly cheaper models on amazon,
http://www.amazon.com/Fieldpiece-SDM...ords=manometer
or
http://www.amazon.com/Meters-PDMM01-...ords=manometer

Considering, I'm not doing this for a living are these good options? Obviously, there are some sacrifices between the different models. Most likely probably the material (i.e. light duty vs heavy duty)
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Old 02-28-2014, 03:20 PM   #15
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You ream out this hole in red. The fieldpiece for $113 looks good. The cheap one is a Chineez knockoff and I stay away from that stuff. Get a dual one as it may be useful someday if you get a high efficiency furnace. The UEI is smaller and more Pro friendly but Fieldpiece is very popular with Pros as well. The single will work but the dual is better in the long run.
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