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Old 10-17-2012, 12:32 AM   #1
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Trane XR90 Model #TUX060C936D3


First I should say I did read the lengthy forum posts about the pressure fault code (3 flashes). Did everything all of you mentioned, but to recap, here it is
- I think by the model number this is a 60btu unit or slightly smaller
- induction motor is running and then cuts out after 30 seconds, (I am guessing there is a timer in the system
- I changed the igniter (none thermal element) last winter...this is an 8 year home...in Alaska.
- Blew out all the hoses and the barb fitting from the combustion chamber, heater exchanger, gas valve, water drain and I think that is all of them
- exhaust and intake were inspected, but ran a dry/wet vac down about 10 feet in each tube. Both tubes have 90 degree bend outside, so I doubt they are interfering with each other.
- removed the pressure switch and blew on both side ports and heard it clicking.
- Geewhiz info: transformer is working, (checked both sides), ran the system with fan only and the blower motor works. Was trying to find a way to bypass the pressure switch with a jumper, but did not see this in any post, so thought there was a reason why no one has mentioned it. I did take an air blow nozzle to simulate air pressure once the induction motor kicked on, but that proved useless. After I did this however, the flashing light blinked "10" times, (yes 10!). There is no code for that, but when you try to start it again, it reverts back to 3 flashes. All the pvc joints are glued but I did check the intake screen at the unit and saw no objects. I think I covered everything that I've read so far, but wanted to get this posted and hope that when someone who is in an earlier time zone reads this, I can get a list of other things to do. I had one year of vo-tech HVAC school, so I know barely enough to be dangerous, but did 20 years of aircraft maintenance, so I am not afraid to dive into anything. This is my neighbors home and this is the first time i could not figure out this problem on my own. So I do appreciate your valueable time. I did read on one post someone wanting to know the length of pipe out of the unit??? Intake and exhaust run about 14", 90 degree up and then another 90 after 24" and a straight shot out. Not sure if this is important, but the unit is mounted horizontal in the crawl space. Obviously hasn't been an issue for 8 years....thxs again
Gary

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Old 10-17-2012, 05:17 AM   #2
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Trane XR90 Model #TUX060C936D3


Could be just a dirty thermocouple (flame sensor).

Clean with emery cloth (not sandpaper) if available.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I86jo...eature=related

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Old 10-17-2012, 01:35 PM   #3
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Trane XR90 Model #TUX060C936D3


But wouldn't it at least try to light or the ignitor start to glow? Looking in the combustion chamber nothing is happening. I will look at this tonight...thanks. I believe I inspected this when I changed the ignitor last winter.
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Old 10-17-2012, 02:16 PM   #4
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Trane XR90 Model #TUX060C936D3


you need a manometer to check if induce draft motor is pulling the correct negative pressure and also check the negative pressure on the pressure switch.

amp draw on the inducer draft motor also needs to be checked

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Old 10-17-2012, 04:57 PM   #5
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Trane XR90 Model #TUX060C936D3


Thanks JJBoy, due to another thread I realize that if the switch was not bad before, I may have rendered it useless with my creative troubleshooting. Is there going to be a amp rating on that motor or is it something HVAC techs just know? Trying to get as much info at my disposal before going at this again tonight after work and trying to plan for no ID tag on the motor...thxs!
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Old 10-17-2012, 05:15 PM   #6
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Trane XR90 Model #TUX060C936D3


amp draw should be around .5 to 2amp


the manometer will help a lot

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Old 10-17-2012, 07:45 PM   #7
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Trane XR90 Model #TUX060C936D3


remove and clean the drain trap in the blower area and make sure the hoses connected to the trap are clear and not plugged.
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Old 10-17-2012, 08:03 PM   #8
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Trane XR90 Model #TUX060C936D3


I did not clean the tramp, to be honest, I didn't even spend much time in the blower motor compartment, but waiting for the neighbors to get home and getting more information on this problem. I ended up getting a new pressure switch due to a thread that said never blow or stick anything in it to clean it, so I may have learned a 90.00 lesson a little to late. Whatever this turns out to be, if I can fix it, I will post to the forum so that everyone can expand their knowledge vault! Soon i will have to tell them to call the repair technician. If the induction motor runs high amps I will remove it and see what is going on, because it runs pretty smooth and it is working, but I do not have a manometer and not going to buy one. My free labor goes only so far

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Old 10-17-2012, 09:29 PM   #9
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Trane XR90 Model #TUX060C936D3


OK . Don't blow into the pressure switch, it can damage it, besides it operates on negative pressure. You can test the circuit by jumpering the PS after the inducer fires up for a couple of seconds.
This will tell you (if the furnace cycles) that the PS circuit is OK and is a positive indication that the board probably is OK as well..
You can ohm the PS connections while gently sucking on the PS. It should close when you hear that click.
Some other common reasons why
a pressure switch may not be operating properly is because the wires are connected to the wrong PS terminals(some have 3 conections), the ID motor is not running fast enough, the ID cage has too much build up on the blades, the ID cage is sliding on the motor shaft, the seal behind the ID assy is falling apart, the exhaust restricter plate is rusting out or a dead rodent or bird anywhere in the intake or exhaust.
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Old 10-17-2012, 09:48 PM   #10
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Trane XR90 Model #TUX060C936D3


How, the light bulb came on for a couple of those ideas today at work...too little, too late after I figured out I could have broke the PS troubleshooting. Here is the update for all those that helped out and those who can learn from my mistake.

First thing was slaved in the new PS and connected the critical hoses, pushed in on the safety switch and the ID motor started and then kept running when normally it would turn off after 30-45 seconds. The fault code lights started flashing indefinitely (okay, this was new) and in this case, new was good because the burner lit off and everything fired up. The ID motor is running at such a low amp that my meter which goes down to .9 did not register. The blower motor is running about 3.2-3.3.

So neighbors have heat, all is good in Alaska or is it? I had to tear into this switch to see for myself. Yes, after splitting it, there was a hole in the diaphram. What's eating at me now is did I put it there with my troubleshooting or was it there all along. If I did it, then my repair may not last very long. I read another thread that after a repair company changed a customers PS, it only lasted a week...hmmm. Time will tell, hope it's a good fix. Thanks everyone for you help!!
Gary
P.S. Water is draining unrestricted from the pan.


Last edited by akicelander; 10-17-2012 at 10:02 PM.
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