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Uconn1220 03-26-2013 11:56 AM

Trane XE80 Issues
 
I have a Trane XE 80 that isn't working properly. (Pardon my lack of lingo and knowledge).

I woke up yesterday morning to the furnace running (or sounded like it was running) but no heat was coming out of the registers. When I checked the unit, it was "running" but the burners were not on and the blower didn't seem to be working at full strength. I'm thinking that only the fan was running?

I re-started the furnace by removing the panel and then putting it back on. Once I did this, the burners and blower kick on and everything seemed fine.

I came home from work that night and the same thing was happening - running without heat. I repeated the re-start and again, everything kicked on.

Three times that night, I had to re-start the furnace. A few times, I had to do it twice before everything kicked on.

This morning I took a look around and noticed a wire that was not secured completly. The wire is attached to the gold colored box in the upper left of my unit. I cannot figure out what this piece is? It was the red wire which can be seen in the closeup image (links below).

Since I've re-connected this wire, all appears to be working fine.

Can anyone tell me what the piece is and if connecting the wire could have fixed the REAL problem?

Thanks!

Image 1 (closeup): http://www.flickr.com/photos/9440022...in/photostream

Image 2: http://www.flickr.com/photos/9440022...in/photostream

JScotty 03-27-2013 09:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Uconn1220 (Post 1146179)
I have a Trane XE 80 that isn't working properly. (Pardon my lack of lingo and knowledge).

I woke up yesterday morning to the furnace running (or sounded like it was running) but no heat was coming out of the registers. When I checked the unit, it was "running" but the burners were not on and the blower didn't seem to be working at full strength. I'm thinking that only the fan was running?

I re-started the furnace by removing the panel and then putting it back on. Once I did this, the burners and blower kick on and everything seemed fine.

I came home from work that night and the same thing was happening - running without heat. I repeated the re-start and again, everything kicked on.

Three times that night, I had to re-start the furnace. A few times, I had to do it twice before everything kicked on.

This morning I took a look around and noticed a wire that was not secured completly. The wire is attached to the gold colored box in the upper left of my unit. I cannot figure out what this piece is? It was the red wire which can be seen in the closeup image (links below).

Since I've re-connected this wire, all appears to be working fine.

Can anyone tell me what the piece is and if connecting the wire could have fixed the REAL problem?

Thanks!

Image 1 (closeup): http://www.flickr.com/photos/9440022...in/photostream

Image 2: http://www.flickr.com/photos/9440022...in/photostream

The part you're talking about is a transformer, but it looks like it's just an add on transformer for a humidifier or something, not the transformer for the furnace. From the picture I see an A/C coil, if you have A/C there should be more than the red & white wire in that brown cable if that was the main unit transformer.

Assuming that isn't the main transformer that shouldn't have had any effect on the furnace operation, just whatever that transformer is powering. Plus resetting the furnace shouldn't fix a loose wire.

techpappy 03-27-2013 10:49 AM

when you say the furnace is "running" but no flame and no blower then, I assume it is the induced draft fan that is running and the furnace does not fire up therefore it is a good possibility that the ID Fan air pressure switch is not functioning properly. Disconnect the tubing to both ends of the pressure switche(s)..one at a time and clean out the orifices they are connected to. Use a paper clip or similar tool to ream them out. Reconnect and try the furnace. ALSO Once all tubing is connected except for the one to the ID fan..you can suck and blow on it to see if you can hear the switch clicking on and off. Let us know how you make out. (with the furnace that is!):laughing:HUH!!

how 03-27-2013 11:15 AM

If you do suck on the tube going to the pressure switch, do so gently or you'll damage it and make the diagnostics more complex. It is safer to use a meter to see if the electrical circuit going through it is being completed when the ID is running.

Uconn1220 04-01-2013 06:13 PM

Thanks for the insight. I was able to locate the the pressure switch. I removed the single tube coming out the back. I cleaned it out with a very skinny screwdriver but didn't see anything that would be obstructing air flow. I also did the suck/blow test and could hear it clicking. I also cleaned all the connectors. This did not help the problem.

Over the weekend, I had a family member take a look. The first thing we noticed was that the circut board is calling for a pressure switch issue (3 flashes). We took the switch apart and cleaned everything (again). After all the time we spent checking the pressure switch we could not get the fan to stop running. After a while, we thought that maybe it was the gas valve (blue knob in picture). We turned this OFF then back ON and it worked! The fan shut off. All appeared to be work just fine until later that night.

At this point, I am still having the same issue. Draft fan runs when it's not calling for heat. Runs and runs until I remove the safety panel and put it back on.

Any other suggestions??

techpappy 04-01-2013 06:28 PM

depending on make and model I have read that sometimes the gas valve is what they call a "smart valve" and they are notorious for these types of problems. HOWEVER, I am not a furnace pro,(mostly boilers) so, perhaps some of the pros with more experience like "yuri" and "beenthere" will respond. wishing you all the best..techpappy

how 04-01-2013 06:28 PM

The most common point of obstruction is not at the pressure switch but just inside the inducer motor housing where the tube to the pressure switch is attached. I wasn't sure from your description if you checked there or not.

PS -Just saw that this PS hose system actually connects and measures the vaccum of the exchanger!

ben's plumbing 04-01-2013 06:34 PM

yep I think how hit this one in dead in the face:laughing: clean out small port on inducer motor where pressure switch hose connects...ben sr

Uconn1220 04-01-2013 07:00 PM

Thanks. Once the house heats up, I will give this a shot.

I will say, though, that the hose is stuck on there real good. If I break this or create a tear, is the hose easy/cheap to replace?

Don't want to try this and leave myself in a pickle.

While, I'm waiting any suggestions on how to get this tube off with ease? Tool suggestion?

Uconn1220 04-01-2013 07:03 PM

Here is a good picture I found that shows the hose I am looking at.

Can you confirm that we are all talking about the same hose?

https://www.google.com/search?q=Tran...ml%3B600%3B450

Uconn1220 04-01-2013 07:37 PM

Update: Removed pressure switch. Used paper clip and tooth pick to remove any possible obstruction in the inducer motor port. I did create a small tear in the hose when removing it. Any foreseen problems patching with electrical tape?

So, we shall see what happens. Any time I mess with this thing, all goes smoothly for about 12 hours and then it acts up again.

Any additional suggestions are welcome but I will most likely check back in with an update tomorrow morning.

Thanks everyone for the insight, comments, etc. Much appreciated.

how 04-01-2013 11:29 PM

A pressure switch measures the gas/air flow through the furnace. If your electrical tape repair prevents any air from being sucked through the tear into the hose, your furnace will continue to run as it did before the tear. The problem is that electrical tape doesn't stand up well to heat so this repair maybe temporary at best..
If your furnace only faults every 12 hours, it's an intermitant problem and you probably need to search for conditions that are borderline.
There are many possibilities.
I think you should get a pro to use a manometer to tee into the PS hose while the furnace is running to see if the measured vaccum is sufficient to close the PS circuit. This will tell you if the PS is doing what it's supposed to or not.
An electrical meter to tell if the pressure switch is really keeping the circuit open or if it is a board issue.
An Amp draw on ID motor?


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