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Old 02-06-2009, 04:34 PM   #16
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Trane XE78


Whoa! Calm down JohnH1. You've read something into my post that was unintended. I am very much appreciative of the input I am recieving here. I make my living helping people fix things over the phone so I do understand how challenging it can be. You are only as good as the input you receive...I know that. Tha's why some of my posts have been sort of 'wordy' as I've tried to describe what I'm seeing as best I can.
Actually I do have access to a manometer if the truth be told,,,,but as I said I am nervous messing with the gas..(don't want to see my foundation hole on the 6 o'clock news!).
All I'm looking for is a little guidance and input from folks who know more about this stuff than I do. Yuri's input that 95% of failures are the controller and 5% are the gas valve was invaluable to me. That can only come from experience. That's what I was looking for. If it turns out not to be the controller, I will not be angry at Yuri or anyone here. Worst case I would then have a new controller on my 16 year old furnace....good for another 16 years or so.
Thanks again.....

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Old 02-06-2009, 05:05 PM   #17
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I believe most Pro's don't really want DIYers opening the gas line and changing gas valves and get nervous about that. We have first hand experience with gas that the average DIYer will never have unless by unfortunate accident. Saving $$ is one thing, endangering lives is another. Good luck with the board. Follow the directions exactly if it is a retrofit and if not sure ask here. We can usually dig up some pdf file or figure it out.
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Old 02-06-2009, 05:51 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by bmik2729 View Post
Whoa! Calm down JohnH1. You've read something into my post that was unintended. I am very much appreciative of the input I am recieving here. I make my living helping people fix things over the phone so I do understand how challenging it can be. You are only as good as the input you receive...I know that.
Thanks again.....
No Problem here I am just being carefull I did not mean to sound like you were not appreciative. I guess I still need to work on my phrasing. Good at HVAC not so good at grammer.
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Old 02-12-2009, 12:02 PM   #19
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I wanted to bring this saga to a conclusion and perhaps some of this could help others in a similar predicament.
We last left off with me ordering the controller. Well it arrived Saturday but I was still very unsettled or unconvinced that the controller was the real issue. By all accounts everything was cycling as expected except the burners just wouldn't light. One thing that was gnawing at me was the fact that everytime I put my meter probes onto the connections for the gas valve the unit would always fire up. Always. As the week progressed the failure to fire started occurring more frequently and now many times would be very difficult to get going except when I metered the contacts.
Well, to make long story short the culprit was the terminal block on the gas valve. I had made sure it wasn't a wire or lug issue and the external contacts were cleaned well. It appears as though the connection through or from the terminal block to one of the solenoids was intermittent or loose. By the end of the week I could make the problem come and go and even get the burners to go out by pressing lightly on the connections.
As I said I would not do the gas valve myself so I called a professional and he confirmed my diagnosis and replaced the gas valve. (unfortunately he did not have the correct valve for this model so he put a temporary one on until the correct one comes in a couple of days)(he also was skeptical of my diagnosis).
The tech told me he's seen this a few times but that it is unusual. I feel good that I was able to figure it out (the valve was near the top of my list from the beginning) eventually. And maybe it was better that the problem became more readily reproduceable in order too not have to swap a lot of parts to fix it.
Thanks for all the input and add this one to the list of causes of failure to ignite on these units. BTW - Thanks Yuri for the info on the controller installation.
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Old 02-12-2009, 01:02 PM   #20
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Thats the trouble we have with doing service calls over the net. We need to be there to check those visual items that may be the real problem. Glad you got it going. You may need that board soon as it is near the end of its life. The relays in it will eventually act up or fail.
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Old 04-07-2009, 07:26 AM   #21
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I have the exact same issue with my XE78. I am going to have the value replaced as well.

Also, I cannot find a parts list for this unit. Does anyone know what part number the Surface Ignitor is?
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Old 04-07-2009, 10:06 AM   #22
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there should be a part # on the ignitor . After market ignitor# probably 41-407 or 41-408.. Try crossing the part # on the ignitor to be sure
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Old 01-08-2013, 06:45 AM   #23
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I am having the same problem with my XE 78. Will try and jump the relays before calling in the pro for the gas valve to make sure that is the issue. Does anyone have a manual on pdf they could send? also, does anyone have the part number for my model # TDD080C966A gas valve? Thanks in advance... j
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Old 01-21-2013, 03:20 PM   #24
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OK, after checking everything I could do, I called in a Trane pro. He came in, wiggled a few wires on the gas valve and the furnace fired up. after 6 more attempts without touching the wires, everything fired up ok. He explained the gas valve was sticking. He said it would get worse and recommended changing it out now. 109 to come out and diagnose. 375 for the new valve and install. The valve for the xe 78 has been discontinued and he has to install another. Then he recommended a full tune up for 175. Thoughts? Thanks....
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Old 01-21-2013, 03:46 PM   #25
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if you want heat then have the work done, simple.
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Old 01-22-2013, 07:34 AM   #26
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Understood Doc, I just wanted to know if something could be done with the wires instead of changing out the whole valve. I turned it on again last night and got no flame. Opened it up, wiggled the wires, closed it up and away it went. If there was a fix for the wires I'm figuring it would be a cheaper fix...
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Old 01-22-2013, 09:01 AM   #27
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I'd like to know if it's a honeywell smart valve or not. those things are death sentences to your furnace, nothing but replacing them can solve the issue of connections not being made at the plugs.

I've seen the plugs shimmied and rubber band held in place before.
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Old 01-22-2013, 09:04 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by bmik2729 View Post
Worst case I would then have a new controller on my 16 year old furnace....good for another 16 years or so.
Thanks again.....
I'd expect for the heat exchanger to crack long before another 16 years, an inducer motor to fail, caps to blow, motors going out, etc.

it happens to furnaces half your's age.

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