I have a Trane XE80 that is doing the following: When call for heat is sent nothing happens. The limits all test good, transformer replaced, blower motor tests ok, resitor on motor replaced, even control board replaced. Had tech in tried to use jumper wire to start up, had flash of waiting for call normal, when jumper attached light went out completely and nothing came on.It seems to be grounding itself out but not to the point that it even blows the fuse on the control board. HELP!
If you haven't already, remove all the 'stat wires from the control board and the jump R and W. By doing this, you know if its within or without the furnace.
This was done by the tech and when this was done the board shut down, as soon as the jumper was removed the board comes back on and blinks as if normal
Hey shotgun.. I think I had a similar problem .. .brand new house. xe80 installed... with a heat pump... it would call for heat the heat pump comes on... the fan in the furnace would not turn on. i could get it to come on by turning off ckt. brkr. then turning back on.
the only difference is that i have a heat pump connected to mine. but the point is .. when the heat signal is sent the xe80 was doing nothing.
the dealer couldnt figure out the problem, however they had the prob at another site... they think it was a radio frequency prob of some type. anyway they messed with it for 2 yrs. then they replaced it for me NO CHARGE.. they upgraded it to a xe90 .. 92% efficient....Hope this Helps!!!!!!!!!
P. S.
they replaced everything in the furnace CKT board blower motor thermostat and every part that comes out..
took 2 years. do a google search i see this a lot!
shoot me back a message if you have any questions.
The problem is you guys are dealing with parts changers and not serive techs, it's unfortunate but you need to try and hunt down a real mechanic in your area. There is no way you had that many bad parts all at once unless the furnace had been under water for a few days.
As I explained previously, this has been checked by a licensed tech and even he could not figure out the problem. The last time I checked this is a DIY site and I am just trying to cover all aspects of this problem. I am not a parts hanger as you suggest. Every part that was replaced was verified to be defective by the tech. So, I am simply trying to gather as much info as possible to try and help solve the problem.
I was refering to the "licensed" tech, just because that's what they do for a living doesn't mean they are any good at it. If a "pro" starts changing out parts, they have no idea what is really wrong.
THE POINT WAS... NONE OF THE PARTS WERE BAD!!!!!! They dont really know what the problem was... but when they changed out the furnace. The problem went away. The dealer acknowledged that it was a problem.. he had seen it before. The xe80 obviously has problems of this sort. Google it!
Thanks luwee for your info, tech has returned and it seems that it is a ground issue or polarity issue. Continuing to trace unit for the xeact problem. I don't think that since this unit was installed in 1994 that I could get Trane to do anything.Thanks
I hope this isn't on your ticket and they are handling this as a call back and doing the work on their dime. If one of my guys changed more than one part or had more than one trip out, someone else would be sent to find the real problem and I would be out kissing some customer azz.
You can be sure that this is their dime. I will not pay another until the actual problem is located, explained to me and repaired. Thanks Alot for the info and advice.
Hey undone, I tried the jumper between R and W, as did a tech and the light on the board went from flashing as normal to off completely. As soon as the jumper was removed it was back to flashing normal waiting for call to heat. Any suggestions?
Have your recurring tech perform the following:
There is something I would do if this were my call: I would remove 1 wire at a time from each terminal until the flashing light would perform as desired.
Remove a wire from the board while power is off or disconnected. Secure the wire so no energy can travel through the wire in the event if it gets grounded or comes in contact with you or another person. Repower the unit and jump R and W. Reconnect wire to original terminal after test. Procede to next wire. And so forth. Stick to the low voltage wires--this is probably where the problem lies.
I STRONGLY ADVISE AGAINST THIS IF YOU HAVE NO EXPERIENCE IN HANDLING WIRING THAT CAN POTENTIALLY ELECTRICUTE YOU !
Thanks undone, will give this a try in the morning , let you know how it goes. Thanks
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