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06-29-2009, 10:54 PM
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#1
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Newbie
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 7
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Trane XE 1000 Fan Problem
I have a TRANE XE 1000 (TWR042C100B3); installed in 2002. Recently it started making squeaking sounds that made me think the bearings in the fan motor might be wearing out. Today the fan shut down while the system was running.
Shut off the power and let it rest for a while. Poked a fan blade with sliver of wood. It seemed to spin ok. Powered up and the fan and the compressor was running. 10 minutes later and the fan had stopped. There was quite a bit of heat coming up from the coil and compressor area. Shut the power off. Tried it a gain a half hour later; heard a switch click (not sure which switch), the fan did not start, and I think the compressor started. Since the fan did not start, shut it off and repeated turning it on with the same result. Checking behind the power panel, nothing looked out of the ordinary. The green diode on the circuit board was blinking.
Is there a way to check if the motor is the cause? If I am putting the multi meter on the motor leads, what about the charge on the capacitors?
What else should I check?
Thank you,
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06-29-2009, 11:00 PM
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#2
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Master Plumber/Mechanical
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 982
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I'm betting that the fan capacitor is going bad
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06-29-2009, 11:00 PM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Suburbs of Detroit Mi
Posts: 2,403
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Bearings. Need new motor. Change the cap too.
__________________
Just slow, not stupid.
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06-29-2009, 11:12 PM
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#4
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: NW of D.C.
Posts: 3,186
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Squeak = bad bearings.
You can check the cap with your meter, a 1 megohm resistor and a 9v battery.
Changing the 7 yr. old cap is probably good practice or it really has failed.
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06-29-2009, 11:16 PM
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#5
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 209
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It is the bearings. Grab the shaft of the motor and move it back and forth (side to side). If you feel any free play, it is the bearings and the fan should be replaced. As stated before, you should always replace the cap with a new motor.
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06-30-2009, 12:53 AM
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#6
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Newbie
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 7
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How should I discharge the the enegy in the capacitor before disconnecting the the four wires?
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06-30-2009, 01:00 AM
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#7
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Suburbs of Detroit Mi
Posts: 2,403
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You don't. The are not strong enough to poke you.
I think a start cap was what was being referred to earlier. They have a much stronger charge than the cap that you have. Just remember where the wire go that you pull off the cap.
__________________
Just slow, not stupid.
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06-30-2009, 01:37 AM
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#8
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Newbie
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 7
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Trane XE 1000 Fan Problem
There is the Start Capacitor (in the drawing it is in the "Start Kit") that is for the compressor and there is the "Run Capacitor" It is tube shaped about 1.5 inches diameter and about 4 inches long. Two sets of terminals: one set feeds the fan motor the other the compressor. (I didn't write down the specifics on the capacitor. ) It is the Run Capacitor you are saying to replace, right?
If replacing the Run Cap, I don't need to discharge it before disconnecting the wires and removing the capacitor, right?
Thank you,
- Flathead64
Quote:
Originally Posted by hvaclover
You don't. The are not strong enough to poke you.
I think a start cap was what was being referred to earlier. They have a much stronger charge than the cap that you have. Just remember where the wire go that you pull off the cap.
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06-30-2009, 10:06 AM
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#9
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Suburbs of Detroit Mi
Posts: 2,403
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flathead64
There is the Start Capacitor (in the drawing it is in the "Start Kit") that is for the compressor and there is the "Run Capacitor" It is tube shaped about 1.5 inches diameter and about 4 inches long. Two sets of terminals: one set feeds the fan motor the other the compressor. (I didn't write down the specifics on the capacitor. ) It is the Run Capacitor you are saying to replace, right?
If replacing the Run Cap, I don't need to discharge it before disconnecting the wires and removing the capacitor, right?
Thank you,
- Flathead64
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Correct. Your run cap is most likely a five MFD.
__________________
Just slow, not stupid.
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06-30-2009, 12:54 PM
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#10
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An old Tradesmen
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Lanc PA
Posts: 3,548
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Even a 5 uF run cap can give you a good jolt.
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06-30-2009, 02:44 PM
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#11
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: NW of D.C.
Posts: 3,186
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More than 1 joule can be fatal. With 5 uF you'd need 800v on it to get to this level of energy.
Most of the time you have less than 300v on them so I think most of the time these could give you some level of non-fatal shock.
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06-30-2009, 07:22 PM
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#12
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Suburbs of Detroit Mi
Posts: 2,403
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beenthere
Even a 5 uF run cap can give you a good jolt.
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Never been poked ever by 5mfd.
__________________
Just slow, not stupid.
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06-30-2009, 07:27 PM
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#13
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An old Tradesmen
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Lanc PA
Posts: 3,548
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Got it a couple times already.
5s aren't bad. But, they wake you up when its late at night. 
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06-30-2009, 07:28 PM
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#14
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: NW of D.C.
Posts: 3,186
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hvaclover
Never been poked ever by 5mfd.
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According to your avatar, you are one of the Undead. Everybody knows they're immune to shocks.
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06-30-2009, 07:32 PM
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#15
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Suburbs of Detroit Mi
Posts: 2,403
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yoyizit
According to your avatar, you are one of the Undead. Everybody knows they're immune to shocks.
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LOL..smart ass.
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