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-   -   Trane XB 13 Condenser Fan (http://www.diychatroom.com/f17/trane-xb-13-condenser-fan-146926/)

Johnny0873 06-13-2012 12:00 PM

Trane XB 13 Condenser Fan
 
I have a Trane XB 13 unit, AC/Heat pump. The unit sounded different a few days ago and then the fan stopped running. Load buzzing noise now coming from the unit. Killed the power. Drip pan has been drained and cleaned. Turned power back on and the fan ran again for 5 minutes and then shut off. Load buzzing noise was still there. Fan spins freely and the capacitor does not appear to be bulged.

Anyone have any ideas? I am thinking of replacing the fan motor and replacing the capacitor as that will probable cost the same as a service call.

Fan # K55HXJPM-9251 Emmerson 1/6
GE capacitor - 97F9899

clocert 06-13-2012 04:24 PM

If it is the condenser fan, Check the contactor first.

TopTechnician 06-13-2012 06:10 PM

Okay, when you mention the drip pan it leads me to wonder if you are talking about the indoor blower motor, not the outdoor condenser fan motor...?
...In which case it could be the blower relay.

Yoyizit 06-13-2012 06:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Johnny0873 (Post 942505)
Load buzzing noise now coming from the unit.

The (relay) noise was always there but was masked by the fan noise? Could also be a high resistance connection causing a relay to oscillate.

Johnny0873 06-13-2012 08:57 PM

I cleaned the drip pan as I thought the float may have been the issue. It is definitly the outside motor unit. Happened tonight again. Ran for 5 minutes and then the motor slowed and shut down.

I checked all the connections and they don't look burned. Circuit board is blinking green.

Appreciate everyone's feedback. If its something I can handle, I would like to give it a try. Otherwise, I know when its time to call a professional.

Yoyizit 06-13-2012 09:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Johnny0873 (Post 942881)
Happened tonight again. Ran for 5 minutes and then the motor slowed and shut down.

A thermal cut-out in the motor is kicking out because of overheating and the five minutes represents the thermal inertia of the motor?

Measuring motor current may give a clue in this case. If the current is normal maybe the cut-out itself is faulty.

You could also try wrapping the motor with a plastic bag full of ice for a half hour or so and then see if the cooled motor goes for more than the five minutes.

TopTechnician 06-13-2012 10:38 PM

Johnny,
Do you have any electrical testing instruments? Like an ammeter, or volt meter?
Can you get to the motor to see if it is hot to the touch right after it shuts off?

clocert 06-13-2012 11:24 PM

You said it is the outside unit. also the circuit board is blinking..WHERE is this circuit board ??

Johnny0873 06-14-2012 07:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TopTechnician (Post 942989)
Johnny,
Do you have any electrical testing instruments? Like an ammeter, or volt meter?
Can you get to the motor to see if it is hot to the touch right after it shuts off?

Yes Sir, I will check if the motor is hot today. Forgot to check that!

AirstarFilters 06-14-2012 04:15 PM

TTB is basic condenser , shouldn't have a board with light, what is the system's model number?

rightit 06-15-2012 08:58 PM

The 'load buzzing noise' is likely the compressor running at high pressure. You can't tell if a capacitor is bad by looking at it (unless it's bulged, but they don't always bulge). 1st thing I would do if you don't have a meter to measure the mfds is to replace the fan capacitor. at $5-$10, you don't lose much by trying. If the problem continues, it's likely the motor. For the capacitor, get the exact mfd (uf) rating and the same VAC or higher (i.e., 370VAC or 440 VAC).

hvactech126 06-16-2012 10:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AirstarFilters (Post 943455)
TTB is basic condenser , shouldn't have a board with light, what is the system's model number?

it would have a board.... he said it was a heat pump

Johnny0873 06-16-2012 08:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rightit (Post 944274)
The 'load buzzing noise' is likely the compressor running at high pressure. You can't tell if a capacitor is bad by looking at it (unless it's bulged, but they don't always bulge). 1st thing I would do if you don't have a meter to measure the mfds is to replace the fan capacitor. at $5-$10, you don't lose much by trying. If the problem continues, it's likely the motor. For the capacitor, get the exact mfd (uf) rating and the same VAC or higher (i.e., 370VAC or 440 VAC).

Replaced the contactor, and was planning to replace the capacitor but was sent the wrong part. Same problem. Waiting on the new capacitor before I change the motor. Must say, spiders love nesting in there. $20 well spent on swapping out the contactor. Thanks again to everyone.


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