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Old 04-23-2009, 06:28 AM   #16
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Thru-The-Wall AC unit


Try that spray foam it conforms to anything and sticks to anything.
You can even trim and paint it and it is strong as hell.

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Old 04-23-2009, 09:24 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by SULTINI View Post
Try that spray foam it conforms to anything and sticks to anything.
You can even trim and paint it and it is strong as hell.
Are you talking about spray foam insulation, or something else?
Any specific brand you recommend?

Thanks

FW
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Old 04-23-2009, 12:19 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by KE2KB View Post
Are you talking about spray foam insulation, or something else?
Any specific brand you recommend?

Thanks


FW
Spray foam insulation, it is really strong stuff people do not realize that.

Any type, Wal Mart has it " Tuff Stuff " I had a shower stall with a fiberglass bottom that started cracking and was flexible I sprayed a can under neath from the basement and wa la tightened right up.

I seen them lift houses on TV with that stuff to level them.

I'm telling you if you install that A/C case and foam around it forget about it, it's in to stay.
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Old 04-23-2009, 04:54 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SULTINI View Post
Spray foam insulation, it is really strong stuff people do not realize that.

Any type, Wal Mart has it " Tuff Stuff " I had a shower stall with a fiberglass bottom that started cracking and was flexible I sprayed a can under neath from the basement and wa la tightened right up.

I seen them lift houses on TV with that stuff to level them.

I'm telling you if you install that A/C case and foam around it forget about it, it's in to stay.
It may be worth a try.
I have researched the AC units, and found only one (Friedrich) that will fit into the opening I have. All of the others are smaller, and will require a lot of filling on the sides.
I can use 1x2 pieces on the sides, but need the foam or other material to seal up the extra spaces on the outside so that rain does not get in.

Problem is this:
Once i install the 1x2's on the sides, I won't have access to the outside spaces around the sleeve, so I'm not sure how I would get even spray foam into the space, as I do not have a ladder to reach the outside of the unit.
Of course, I suppose that I could spray the foam before pushing the sleeve through the opening, and it would harden around the sleeve?
I don't think this would produce an acceptable finish on the outside though.

So, I'll probably just bite the bullet and go for the Friedrich unit that will cost me $550 for an 8,000 BTU. Yes, a lot more expensive, but it's a better built unit, and would eliminate the extra work, and probably another expense to have the flashing fixed up.

FW
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Old 04-23-2009, 05:09 PM   #20
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Wow, I bought a 14k unit for $225
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Old 04-23-2009, 05:59 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Scuba_Dave View Post
Wow, I bought a 14k unit for $225
The guy at PC Richard explained to me that the sizes of room AC units has gotten smaller.
He checked, and I re-checked online myself and found only one unit that is the correct size for my opening. This is a Friedrich XQ series, which is built better than the CP line, is more quiet, and I think has more features.
It's not features or noise that I am most concerned with though. It's the size that will fit my opening.

I thought I could simply add a 1x2 on each side of the opening to make it smaller, so the more common (and less expensive) would fit, but that presents other problems.
For one, the flashing on the outside would not come up to the smaller sleeve. Sultini told me about spray foam insulation that might work as a seal, but I am afraid it would not produce an acceptable finish on the outside, requiring work to be done outside.
As I said in my other post, I do not have a ladder that will reach the opening, and am trying to avoid having to pay someone to install this AC unit.
I may in the end have to get it professionally installed, but I would want the installer to re-seal the outside flashing after the unit is installed, or his work would be no better than mine.

The guy at PC Richard told me that the more expensive Friedrich unit is the only one his installer would install, since they cannot fill more than 1", and my opening is 1-1/2" wider than the less expensive, smaller units.

FW
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Old 04-23-2009, 07:01 PM   #22
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My 14k unit is installed about 7' off the floor in a sunroom
It has a 11' ceiling, hot tub outside makes access difficult
If this a cased unit, can't you install the casing, do the sealing etc
Then slide the AC in?

That's what I did with my 24k AC
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Old 04-23-2009, 08:27 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Scuba_Dave View Post
My 14k unit is installed about 7' off the floor in a sunroom
It has a 11' ceiling, hot tub outside makes access difficult
If this a cased unit, can't you install the casing, do the sealing etc
Then slide the AC in?

That's what I did with my 24k AC
That's how you install all wall A/C's and window A/C's under 6000 btu's.
Ron
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Old 04-23-2009, 08:47 PM   #24
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Yes, I do plan to do the sealing after the sleeve is installed, but before the unit is slid into it.
I will need to reach around to the outside of the sleeve where it meets the aluminum flashing, and do some caulking. I realize that a lot of this can be done from the inside, but not sure it all can. I suppose that with my relatively long (and thin) arms, I can reach most, if not all spots that need caulking.

I was also thinking of installing some foam weather stripping onto the flashing and/or the sleeve to make the whole job easier.
I guess once I have the unit, and position the sleeve into the opening, I'll get a better picture of how it will work.

FW
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Old 04-24-2009, 07:01 PM   #25
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I purchased the Friedrich XQ08 today and installed it into the wall opening.
Thanks to Sultini for the spray foam idea. I bought a can at HD and it worked quite well. A bit messy, but it gets into the spaces I needed it in.

Because my opening was not cut exactly right, I had to modify the install a bit.
The sill plate on the bottom of the sleeve needed to be removed, because there was no "sill" for it to drop into. The wall opening was flat on sides, top and bottom. If the opening had been higher, I could have installed the 1" lumber on each side of the sill plate as instructed, but it wasn't.
Instead, I used two screws through the holes where the sill plate had been fastened, into the wood frame.

I installed all the side screws (5 each side), except one which I broke off during install, and the 3 top screws as well. The instructions said to use 3 screws on each side, but I figured I would use all 5 since I had to remove the sill plate (if that matters).
I had to use about 3/8" worth of shims on each side of the sleeve to fill the gap, but it worked out very well. The sleeve (or the AC) isn't going to go anywhere unless the house falls apart<g>.

I also believe I got the required outwards tilt, as I confirmed with my bubble level during install, and afterwards I went outside and looked at it. Looks like there is a slight tilt towards the outside.

I saved all install parts, in case I ever want to re-install in another location.

One note:
I was going to use some #12 x 2-1/2" wood screws I had purchased at HD a while ago instead of the supplied 7/8" x 10 wood screws, but decided to go with the supplied ones because wood screws would not sit as flat as the sheet metal screws on the inside of the sleeve.
While trying to install one of the #12 wood screws, I managed to break it off, just at the point where the threads start, using only a 6" screwdriver.
I'm not sure I will trust those HD screws from now on. Glad I ended up using the supplied ones for the AC install.

I am happy to have this job done, just in time for the hot weather (87 deg) we are supposed to have this weekend.

Thanks for all of your support!

FW
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Old 04-24-2009, 07:08 PM   #26
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87 isn't hot

I never turn an AC on unless its over 90 usually
or if great grandmother is here
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Old 04-24-2009, 07:35 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by Scuba_Dave View Post
87 isn't hot

I never turn an AC on unless its over 90 usually
or if great grandmother is here
My sister has allergies, and cannot have her windows open, so the AC needs to run. For me, I just put my fan in the window until it gets too humid, then I need the AC as well, but I like the windows open. Sometimes at night though, I have to close them, even when it's not too hot. Too much noise, with trains, and an occasional truck or bus on the road past my house. I am especially sensitive to trains, because I like them; just can't sleep with them<g>

FW
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Old 04-26-2009, 01:06 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by Scuba_Dave View Post
87 isn't hot

I never turn an AC on unless its over 90 usually
or if great grandmother is here

87 deg is hot, how are we supposed to make any money with guys like you.
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Old 04-26-2009, 02:21 PM   #29
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87 deg is hot, how are we supposed to make any money with guys like you.

We'll make it up on the holes he drills into the coils

78 in the house i turn on the air.
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Old 04-26-2009, 05:49 PM   #30
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We'll make it up on the holes he drills into the coils

78 in the house i turn on the air.

ABSOLUTELY, ME TOO sorry not yellin just frekin.

Scuba Daves been under water to long.

Just fired up my new system today.

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