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Old 10-22-2011, 11:52 PM   #16
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Thermostat Swap


Here is a pic of the new place wiring, no block at all, unless you count the plastic connector (top right of pic) with no labels.

Not the greatest pic but you get the idea.
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Old 10-23-2011, 03:18 PM   #17
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so, as I have tried to read through most of the thread, what have you decided you want to do with the new house? New thermostat? change wiring? Cut out Aux heat until below a certain outdoor temp?

FYI american standard and trane are the same manufacturer.... that air handler you have a pic of contains the new vortex blower, so you are not that far in the middle of the road.
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Old 10-23-2011, 03:38 PM   #18
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I am going to try to swap out the heat sequencer (as Doc Holliday) suggested. I need to take a look at it to determine if I can do this myself based on if I can find one in town and how difficult it would be. A quick search last night told me that they are $20ish, so this seems like the first and least costly thing to try.

Thermostat would be next, then the wiring (hopefully I don't have to get that far).

I know that Am Std and Trane are basically the same, but I had heard that the Am Std are made in Mexico and I know they have a shorter warranty life. Thanks for the info on the blower.

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Old 10-23-2011, 03:39 PM   #19
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Thermostat Swap


I was confused too. I couldn't tell if he was trying to install the 5000 or the 8000 in the new house..
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Old 10-23-2011, 03:41 PM   #20
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Thermostat Swap


I would try seperating all of the white thermostat wires and see if the heat strips come on. The problem could be something other than the sequencer. Can't say I remember a Trane unit using sequencers. Its usually a contactor.
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Old 10-23-2011, 04:06 PM   #21
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Maybe it is a contactor. This is a pic from under the cover of the heat strips at the top of the unit. Is that the contactor/sequencer? Could I just remove the white wire from that to see if the heat strips stay on? If so then that is bad, as opposed to say a short in the wire from the thermo to the unit.?.?

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Old 10-23-2011, 04:09 PM   #22
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There is a part number sticker on the bottom of it. I was able to get C147094P03 and then 3100-20Q1542.

the rest is too small to read upside down and backwards with a dental mirror.

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Old 10-23-2011, 04:10 PM   #23
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yes, contactor... you can kill all the power to the unit and then push the contactor in to make sure the contacts are moving freely. If you want to replace it : any 24Vcoil 2 pole 30A contactor will work.
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Old 10-23-2011, 04:39 PM   #24
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What I am saying is that it might not be the contactor causing the problem. It could be a thermostat wiring short, or a relay in the defrost board that is stuck closed. No sense is buying a bunch of parts if you don't know what's wrong with it. And yes, im throwing a couple of techs under the bus too..
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Old 10-23-2011, 04:46 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Master of Cold View Post
What I am saying is that it might not be the contactor causing the problem. It could be a thermostat wiring short, or a relay in the defrost board that is stuck closed. No sense is buying a bunch of parts if you don't know what's wrong with it. And yes, im throwing a couple of techs under the bus too..

Just wondering, who you throwing under the bus cause I never said to replace anything! And, yes, I agree more diag needs to be done before anything is replaced...
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Old 10-23-2011, 05:01 PM   #26
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I'm on it.
Contacts move freely.
With the breaker on and the face of the thermo off the heat strips are on and the contacts are in the out position.
I removed the thermo white wire from the bundle of white wires in the unit, breaker on, heat strips came on.
I then untwisted and capped all of the white wires from the bundle, breaker on, heat strips came on.
I re-hooked up the white wire bundle and unhooked the white wire directly from the contactor, breaker on, heat strips came on.
What next?
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Old 10-23-2011, 05:04 PM   #27
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you said contacts are out but the strips are on?! If the strips are on without the contacts pulled in then something is shorted to ground.
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Old 10-23-2011, 05:08 PM   #28
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roclob, you really need to go back and double check the wiring. The previous pictures of the old house are not helpful. If you can, post pictures or diagrams, of where the wires are hooked up on each piece of equipment in the new house for the hvac. If you already swapped out the thermostat, go back and check the programming of it, to make sure that it is set up for the proper equipment (electric Heat Pump).
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Old 10-23-2011, 05:22 PM   #29
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Yes, the contacts are out. So there is space between the spring loaded moving side and the main piece.
Yes, the heat strips are on. When I turn the breaker on I hear and electrical humming sound and the area around the heat strip enclosure starts warming up.

I have not made any changes to the thermo or wiring in the unit at the new house.

Below are the wires that are connected together inside the unit. I did not trace the wires from these connections to anything inside the unit.

Below is how the wires (thermo, outside unit, drip pan shut off switch, inside unit) are connected at the air handler:
Red wire – Thermo & Outside Unit & Shutoff Switch
Orange – Thermo & Outside Unit
Yellow - Thermo & Outside Unit
Green – Thermo & Inside Unit
White – Thermo & Outside Unit & Inside Unit 3 wires
Black – Nothing, however this is hooked up at the thermo to the E port which is Emergency Heat Relay per the thermo install instructions
Blue – Thermo & Outside Unit & Inside Unit The Shutoff Switch Blue is wired to the Inside Unit Red
Brown – Nothing

Last edited by roclob; 10-23-2011 at 05:41 PM.
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Old 10-24-2011, 09:46 PM   #30
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So tonight I checked the wiring diagram for the heat strips and all of the factory wiring is good. I then turned on the breaker and used a piece of wood to press in the contactor. The heat strips came on and there was an orange glow coming from the enclosure. I had not seen this in previous inspection, so it looks like the heat strips were never on, I was mistaken.
However, if the breaker is left on the heat strip box is hot and there is warm air coming out of the vents upstairs.
Can power leak across the contactor and barely warm the heat strips???
I could deal with that during the winter but not the summer. If that is the case I will need to find a way to disconnect the power so i am not wasting money. The house is 72 deg and the air coming from the upstairs vents is 78 deg. With the breaker off there is no air coming from the upstairs vents.

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