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Old 09-21-2012, 10:10 PM   #16
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Thermopile millivolts?


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Hey Gary
This may clarify RobertShaw's recomendations on powerpile measurements on their gas valves.
Goggle
www.robertshawtstats.com/spaw2/.../ControlTips-MillivoltSystems.pd...
like i said how Iam rusty...thanks seems to me if you have at least 100 millivolts from the powerpile it should open the valve......i just remember seeing 500 to 750 millivolts in all the old instructions.. which my be where iam confused....and old........see now iam not so rusty...just still not to brite

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Old 09-21-2012, 10:41 PM   #17
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Thermopile millivolts?


Not exactly Ben. Although I understand that "rusty" feeling as those instructions are not as straight forword as I thought.

Robertshaw test "A" includes the voltage drop through the thermostat, the valve, wiring & connections which is why they say only 100MV.

Test "B" (the right test to choose for the OP's question) is what says if the powerpile is creating enough output on it's own to operate the gas Valve which is a minimum of 325MV.

The op is getting identical measurements for test A & B which is either a testing error or a fried valve
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Old 09-21-2012, 10:50 PM   #18
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Thermopile millivolts?


I guess I read that 20 or more times but this time I paid attn. to what it said....with my 380 mv I am over the threshold of what should trigger the valve, so I am going to concentrate on that portion....I was getting confused by what a lot of people were telling me that I had to have the 700 to 750 mv in order for the valve to open, so I was looking for something else to be my problem. With it only needing the smaller amount of mvs, I will replace the valve and hope Murphy's law gives me a break and that really IS the problem......I will post results as they become available......thanks to all.......for now.

Last edited by Gary Cski; 09-21-2012 at 10:53 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old 09-21-2012, 10:53 PM   #19
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Thermopile millivolts?


Quote:
Originally Posted by how View Post
Not exactly Ben. Although I understand that "rusty" feeling as those instructions are not as straight forword as I thought.

Robertshaw test "A" includes the voltage drop through the thermostat, the valve, wiring & connections which is why they say only 100MV.

Test "B" (the right test to choose for the OP's question) is what says if the powerpile is creating enough output on it's own to operate the gas Valve which is a minimum of 325MV.

The op is getting identical measurements for test A & B which is either a testing error or a fried valve
no its not you its me just looked at troubleshooting site for robertshaw..... exactly as you state ...i get it completely..after reading it carefully..wonder if maybe he should remove and clean all contacts as this could be and issue related to his valve not opening.....2 heads are better than one....thanks...
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Old 09-21-2012, 11:24 PM   #20
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Thermopile millivolts?


Test "C" is the answer to checking if resistance (poor connections) is the reason why a valve isn't working.... But since the op has already tried jumpering the thermostat (I hope at the gas valve) not much is left to eliminate ....
although I once ran across a gas cock that was just shut down enough to allow a pilot to operate, but not enough to operate the runner bar of a fireplace.
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Old 09-22-2012, 10:33 AM   #21
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Thermopile millivolts?


The saleman was nice enough to meet me at the store at 6:30am with the new valve and thermopile......I went home and installed the new thermopile on the old valve and got the same millivolt readings as with the old one....no ignition. I then replaced the valve and used the old thermopile to check it with the new valve...Presto, I now have a working fireplace. A big thank you to all who replied for me.

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