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slash5bmw 05-23-2012 10:41 PM

testing used outdoor compressor
 
I bought a used Bryant 113RNA030-E 2.5 ton outdoor compressor last year and the guy I bought it off said it was full of r22. I opened the valves a little and nothing came out so I opened them up fully and there's no r22 in this system.

Is there any way to test the unit to make sure it is good? Should I add nitrogen to it and see if it holds 150psi? Should I replace the Schrader valve?

Also I have a goodman ARUF303016CA 2.5 ton AH. On the Bryant compressor it says the metering TXV Device indoor. I guess that mean the AH has to have a TXV?

Thx.

Slash

beenthere 05-24-2012 04:50 AM

Probably leaked out the service valve. But you should heck to see where it leaked out from first before installing it. And yes you need a TXV for the air handler.

COLDIRON 05-24-2012 06:01 AM

About the only three things to do is leak check, acid oil test, Ohm readings. Might be just as easy to install it and see how it performs.

The installation must be done correctly with many important steps.

biggles 05-24-2012 06:08 AM

it is basically a motor winding within bump it,but the final test is time and with a freon load running thru it from the high side.would of been cool if it had freon holding charge :wink: did you feel even a burp of freon or was it atmospheric?

slash5bmw 05-24-2012 11:35 AM

I didn't hear anything when I opened the valve. The unit looks brand new. I've replaced many compressors on cars and was wondering if there's a way to check the oil or if oil should be added?

For cars, you usually drain the compressor and add the proper amount of oil to the compressor as oil leaks out if there's a freon leak.

If the the acid test is positive, does the compressor need to be flushed?

I will follow these directions for the ohm readings.
http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_do_you...nit_compressor

Thanks.

Slash

biggles 05-24-2012 01:01 PM

this is a condenser section :wink: not just a compressor?unit is 208V with a capacitor then you have 3 terminals on the compressor set the OHM meter so you can read the windings 200 range... they might be stamped R/RUN...S/START...C/COMMON.set the meter to highest OHMs and read each termial to the compressor body,unpainted file away to get raw metal....you should read infinity..00.00.if you can get a finger inside one of the pipes where the valve is rub it around and smell the finger if it is acid at all it will smell no odor no acid.being open to the atmosphere isn't the healthiest thing for a motor/compressor that should run in a moisture free situation with dry freon moving thru it.oil testing isn't possible on residential in place except for a burp tube they sell that you screw to the shradder port on the suction while the unit is running..and you concern is that there is oil right now...tipping the condenser with the suction line valve shut then tip it back open the valve see if oil drips out might tell?:huh:when a compressor is off the oil should be right below that suction line where it goes into the compressor....just a thought

slash5bmw 05-24-2012 09:26 PM

Thanks for the info. It is a condenser unit. I will check tomorrow if there is an odor coming from the compressor. I will also tip it open slightly and see if oil comes out.

Regardless if oil comes out or not. If the unit hasn't been turned on for 2 years, would you recommend draining as much oil out and putting new synthetic oil in?

The valve was shut for 2 years but, when I opened it this week, nothing came out of the system.

Thanks again.

Slash

COLDIRON 05-25-2012 05:55 AM

Did not know it was a condenser I would leak check it and install it by following all the installation procedures.

slash5bmw 05-25-2012 03:25 PM

Yes its the entire outside unit. I will add 100psi of nitrogen and make sure it holds the pressure for 20 minutes.

biggles 05-25-2012 04:31 PM

most compressor oil stay within the compressor itself whenoff or isolated as yours is.....the valves or shradders probably leaked...that is why i sked if you go at least a bur on the valve when you open it...oil change is limited on a residential condenser..you need to pressurize the entire condenser and slam thos service valves and shradder caps down.when pressussrized take a spray bottle with dish washing liquid/water mix spray the fittings service valve...do 200psi on the nitro if you can

slash5bmw 05-31-2012 04:22 PM

Do I have to braze on end caps to both the suction and liquid line to pressure test the condenser?

I hooked up my manifold to the Schrader valves and turn on the nitrogen but it leaked right out the suction side where the copper was cut.

I guess the valves are closer to the compressor than the Schrader valves.

Slash


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