testing a steveco 90-66 potential relay - the method?

shag_carpet

bought this steveco 90-66 potential relay on ebay "new" but sold "as is". kind of scary... I'd like to TEST it, as best I can, with what I have here "so far".

and what I have is the relay itself, an LED test light "continuity tester" I made, that runs off a 'wall wart' (which works fine, it's a good continuity tester). also have other test leads that I can get 120 VAC "wall juice" out of, and another (bigger, range cord, actually) test lead I can get 230VAC out of.

clicking small images should open the (1024 x 768) LARGE version of same












so, to test this steveco "for functionality", I guess the 1st thing to do is

1. with no power hooked to it, use the lite to check continuity between pins 1 and 2 (which should lite the lite)

I don't have any run or start caps here yet...have some electric motors, but they're 20 miles away. no meters.

2. what next? maybe hook 240VAC power across pins 1 and 5, at which time the 1 to 2 contacts "bridge" (the normally closed contacts) should OPEN?

do I have the procedure above right? is there a *better* way to test this thing? I'd like to make sure it's a *working* unit. this steveco will eventually become part of a rotary converter I'm building....

*thanks* for any advice or tips you guys provide

shag

ps-I posted in the HVAC forum instead of the gen'l electrical forum because I figured HVAC guys would have a *much* greater familiarity with potential relays, generally

Houston204

This video may help understand why your 2. test will not work.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4vPYHW26RlQ

nap

to test this you will either have to be able to apply a variable AC voltage from 240 volts to less than 130 volts.

or

either that or you need a very fast reading meter and a really good eye and ear. You would actually put it in use and take readings of the applied coil voltage and listen for it to change state and see at what voltgae it changes.

tough to do but you can usually come fairly close.

why do you need to check it?

shag_carpet

because I bought it on ebay, and it was represented in the listing as "new" but also as "sold as is" (which strikes me as being "a bit on the strange side", and possibly contradictory). worrisome, in other words...

I also need to test it because the 'leave feedback for a seller' window on ebay doesn't stay open forever, and, at the rate I'm going now, it could be MONTHS before i gather all the parts I need to actually put my rotary converter -together-. so I'd like to know sooner than that if the steveco relay is actually useable (and i can count on it WORKING) before I buy more parts...

also because the LAST 3 items i bought on ebay (all as one lot, small electronic timers) were represented as "used, untested, sold as is" but, when they arrived here, all THREE of the things tested bad.

I think, even with -factoring in- a 'lousy luck of the draw' all THREE of the things shouldn't have tested bad....one thing the guy's listing didn't say, but probably should have, was "you should expect everything we sell to be either totally worthless, not working, need repairs, or not worth paying shipping on"

that's why

bet you're glad you asked

thank you for your help

shag_carpet

well, I actually have this bizarre "rat shocker" thing, which contains a fairly large rheostat (see last 2 rows of images), next to my desk here. I think it's presently config'ged to pump out 0 to 120 VAC. maybe with some rigging...



yeah, and a gift certif here for lowes, been saving it, need a meter though...might be time, 61 yrs old now...



jeeze, lots of hoops to jump through to save a buck...

shag_carpet

ok, how about THIS (slightly revised) test procedure:

1. with no power hooked to it, use the lite to check continuity between pins 1 and 2 (which should show continuity)

2. hook 120VAC power across pins 1 and 5, at which time the 1 to 2 contacts "bridge" (the normally closed contacts) should stay shut, then...

3. hook 240VAC power across pins 1 and 5, at which time the 1 to 2 contacts "bridge" (the normally closed contacts) should OPEN, correct?

I realize the procedure above, while 'something less than ideal' (because of the lack of a huge variac, or something similar) should at least prove functionality, shouldn't it?

or?

thanks again