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-   -   Stuck on Condenser Fan! (http://www.diychatroom.com/f17/stuck-condenser-fan-145655/)

LeeLee12 06-01-2012 06:41 PM

Stuck on Condenser Fan!
 
Last summer AC worked fine. No issues. Winter, Heater worked fine. No issues

Go to turn on AC. Nothing. No compressor, nothing. Reset breaker wait a few minutes, try again.. Compressor turns on for a few minutes ( a little louder and more ticking and vibrating then usual i think) but no condenser fan.

Go up, looks like the old condenser fan burned up, chard on the inside, rain slinger(cap) all melted. DONE.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...e/ACMotor3.jpg

So sense then i have replaced the Fan motor

The run capacitor and the Dual run capacitor just to be on the safe.


My problem is, my condenser fan is still not turning on. I wired it back exactly the way it was in regards to connections to the capacitors.

the new Fan Motor one came with a Black, Purple, Brown and Brown/white

The original motor came with Black, Yellow, Brown and Red. (the red was just hanging in there with a wire nut on the end)

I connected motor:

Black to Black
Purple to Yellow
Brown to Run Cap
Brown/White to Run Cap

See Below

The Black does not go to the contractor (see start in bottom right end in top left)
Yellow goes to C on Dual Run CAP

This is how the previous motor was wired. so i just did the same

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...e/WireGood.jpg


My issue is that the Condenser fan is still not starting. If i turn on the thermostat or push down the contractor, the compressor turns on, (seems to be inconsistent in its vibrating and volume though) but still turns on and runs for a few minutes before shutting off.

Any ideas?

I have been told that i can just connect the Black and purple form the motor directly to the Contactor, but im not sure which terminals to connect too.

I also have heard that the Contactor might be bad. but if it was, wouldn't the compressor not turn on?

Any ideas. I have tried to test Voltage on contactor but im doing something wrong im pretty sure. Could i get a walk through on that based on the picture below?

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1.../Contactor.jpg

Marty S. 06-01-2012 07:00 PM

You didn't get the same motor did you? The burnt up one is a furnace blower motor and not meant to be outside in the weather.

LeeLee12 06-01-2012 07:11 PM

No i didnt. but that was the one on the the roof for the last how ever many years.

I got a new 1/4 HP TEAO 1075 R.P.M. 208-230V 60Hz 1Phase

biggles 06-01-2012 07:54 PM

that contactor is melted on the silver point there get a new one,and the motors wires have to get 208V when the contactor closes as the compressor starts..at least one side of the 208V might be direct from the incoming 208V block before the contactor..but definitly ace that melt down before the compressor takes a hit...

LeeLee12 06-01-2012 08:25 PM

what i think you are talking about is actually a silicon or some sort. So i dont know if that means that it is melted or not. But if i just spend the 30 dollars to replace that should it also fix any voltage problems that i may be having?

and does anyone know if this is why the condenser fan would not be starting?

Marty S. 06-01-2012 08:53 PM

Do you have a meter to test if the motor is getting 240 or not? We can only point you in the right direction from a computer screen, you have to do the actual testing and diagnostics. That contactor is burnt and pitted so needs replaced anyway.

LeeLee12 06-01-2012 09:26 PM

i do have an Analog multimeter, But i have used it mostly for checking outlets and ruining sprinkler value wires so im an amature with it i guess. I read as much as possible before hand i want to make sure i testing the right terminals for the right voltage


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