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Steam Heat still making banging noises

32K views 101 replies 10 participants last post by  redline 
#1 ·
Hi to all, and hope Mdshunk helps out as well. Well this steam heat has been a nigtmare, all piping on back of boiler has be done to specs from Burhman. Supply line 2inc, pitches away from boiler and down towards return line. All radiators and heat elements are pitch to return line, this is a one pipe system. If I drain the boiler completly out, she runs smoothly for ablout a day or two, then the banging and spitting water from the vents start. Can the boiler be bad?? Please guys help me out, I begun to hate steam heat, the heat is nice because its toasty warm, but the bangs are driving me nuts. Thanks to all. Happy New Year to all as well.
 
#32 · (Edited)
#33 ·
Hi, can it be the Boiler that is no good and its pushing water around the system?
My questions is why is the Boiler asking for so much water when she doesn't need it?
Why is the radiator gushing water out of the vent when the system is not flooded? I drained her out completly, even the water return line I drained, fed her the amount of water needed, and it still not spitting, but gushing water out. Supply pipe is pitched away from boiler towards return, and return pipe is pitched towards boiler. This has really gotten to me, its like 20 degrees and couldn't even work in the house today because I couldn't keep this thing running right!
 
#34 ·
I ordered the auto water feeder, I've been told that maybe the water is still flowing thru the systen when its off, I have ordered the water cut off, I thought maybe the flow chamber is screwed some how and giving false readings and telling the boiler I need water when she don't. But I am coming to realize that I don't think it's either or. The boiler is pushing water thru the pipes when she not even flooded. What a mess steam heat is!!!!
 
#36 · (Edited)
This problem sounds similiar to mine. My system is a one pipe system with a dry return. With me, it wasn't my radiator banging, it was only the pipes. I made sure all my radiators were pitched properly and I installed all new Maid-O-Mist valves. The feed and return lines were banging. The feed at the end of the line (opposite the boiler) was pitched upwards (not down towards the return line), but the other end near the boiler was ok. This led to a belly in the middle that would bang. I was moving two radiators to different locations, so I had to remove about half of the feed line in my basement. When reinstalling, I pitched it properly and it does not seem to bang anymore. Problem one solved.

Problem two, is the dry return line that isn't so dry. I noticed that at some areas it is pitched away from the boiler. When the heat clicks on you can hear the water swiching in the return line and it bangs hard. There is no way for me to pitch it properly unless I remove it. Well, I'm going to have to remove it because today it sprung a pin sized hole exactly where I would hear it bang. For now, I put a Fernco rubber clamp around it. I couldn't believe how much water kept coming out. Today, I must of filled a regular household bucket. I wouldn't think that much water should be in that pipe.

Problem three just started lately and is similiar to yours. The water level is about an inch and a half from the top of the glass (slightly above the water level line) and the low water light went on, causing the auto feed to click on. I tried draining some of the water but the low water light clicks on as soon as I start draining.

My question is the same as yours, how do you adjust the low water level switch?
I opened the box, but there is nothing to adjust.

Luckily, the level is pretty much staying where it is , so I just going to keep an eye on it.

But one time, everything was banging like crazy and water was spitting out of the radiator valve on the 2nd floor. I checked the glass gauge and ot was filled all the way. Once I drained some of the water out, it was ok. Since this seems to be your problem the water level must be too high. I don't know why the low water light comes on sometimes when the glass gauge is half full.

Sorry, for the long post, but I needed to vent a little. These old steam systems can drive you crazy.
 
#37 · (Edited)
Hey Doog, hopefully someone will help us, or you will find out from me once I change the water feeder, and the low water cut off. All my pipes are pitched right, 2 inc supply lines pitches away from boiler, towards the return line. The return line pitches toward the boiler. All my radiators are pitched back to the return line, the one pipe of course.

Redline
Yes, I know the vents suppose to close once steam reaches, but I have one radiator down stairs that water gushes out, yes water gushes out as if it was a water line. No, its not the vents, I replaced 3 times, and this time I put $28 adjustable valves on each radiator, $170 in just vents, not including a $35.00 vent on the supply line. If I shut the radiator that gives problems downstairs, guess what it takes the water upstairs to the second floor radiator. For some reason boiler ask for too much water, and if you give it to her, you end up flooding the boiler. The boiler has to be fed at leat 4-5 times a day, if you want her to turn back on. I never new that steam heats carries water in the lines, I thought it was steam heat, not hot water heat. Also the return line gets hot as if it was a steam raditor. Waiting on Carrierman, to see what he thinks. Redline, radiators are all new, and so are all the pipes from the boiler to each radiator. With all this money spent, I could of had a nice hot water heating system, but just started taking other peoples advises, and now I am stuck. Just hope I don't walk into the house and find the main water line frozen and a pool in the house, because I still can't get heat. I must of lost 15lbs today, running between each radiator and the boiler. Mdshunk, where are you? Trollmaster, any luck or good news for me???
 
#38 ·
Hey Handyman,

I hope someone can figure this out for us. I just checked my glass gauge and it was filled to the top. I drained a little so it is now half filled. I can't figure out why it keeps over filling.

Hey Doog, hopefully someone will help us, or you will find out from me once I change the water feeder, and the low water cut off. All my pipes are pitched right, 2 inc supply lines pitches away from boiler, towards the return line. The return line pitches toward the boiler. All my radiators are pitched back to the return line, the one pipe of course.

Redline
Yes, I know the vents suppose to close once steam reaches, but I have one radiator down stairs that water gushes out, yes water gushes out as if it was a water line. No, its not the vents, I replaced 3 times, and this time I put $28 adjustable valves on each radiator, $170 in just vents, not including a $35.00 vent on the supply line. If I shut the radiator that gives problems downstairs, guess what it takes the water upstairs to the second floor radiator. For some reason boiler ask for too much water, and if you give it to her, you end up flooding the boiler. The boiler has to be fed at leat 4-5 times a day, if you want her to turn back on. I never new that steam heats carries water in the lines, I thought it was steam heat, not hot water heat. Also the return line gets hot as if it was a steam raditor. Waiting on Carrierman, to see what he thinks. Redline, radiators are all new, and so are all the pipes from the boiler to each radiator. With all this money spent, I could of had a nice hot water heating system, but just started taking other peoples advises, and now I am stuck. Just hope I don't walk into the house and find the main water line frozen and a pool in the house, because I still can't get heat. I must of lost 15lbs today, running between each radiator and the boiler. Mdshunk, where are you? Trollmaster, any luck or good news for me???
 
#39 ·
I would be very interested in some answers to these questions also. I just bought a home with a steam radiator system, i do not have the water fill issue. the water banging is frequent for one radiator and the heat seems to be uneven through out the house. the top floor is VERY warm and the main living area is cool.
 
#40 ·
Wow, I have the complete opposite. My bedroom (furthest from the boiler) is the coldest room in the house. 4-5 degrees colder then downstairs where the thermostat is located. You have to make sure you install the right steam vents on the radiators. I have a large size (large hole) vent on my bedroom radiator to draw quickly. The radiators in the hot rooms should have a small hole, to draw less.

I use Maid-O-Mist vents, about $7 at Home Depot.

http://kingsolar.com/catalog/mfg/maidomist/ventsizing.htm
 
#42 · (Edited)
Hey Doog and Helplessowner, you guys need to buy these vents I purchashed.
http://www.heat-timer.com/literature/PN056082.pdf

They are Great and you can adjust them, the more you open them the more air vents out and the radiator gets hotter. Doog, not for anything, but those vents at HD are junk! I had to change them three times in a month. I know these guys are busy with the heating system, but they are the ones that really know this stuff. Carrierman, when you get a chance, how hard is it to change the low water cutt off? Thanks, hope we can get some answers....
 
#44 ·
Hey Doog, I just read your post, your problem might just be your water feeder. Do you have an auto water feeder? If you do, close the water valve that feeds the water feeder, and sit there and watch the glass. If it doesn't start to over fill, you have just solved your problem, (wish mine was this easy :laughing:) What could be happening is that the water feeder is staying stuck on an open position and water is still flowing to the boiler, give it a shot and let me know...ASlso don't forget to reopen the valve, or manual feed the boiler water until you get a new feeder.
 
#45 ·
Hi helplesshandyman

Open the ball valve on the bottom of your low water cut off. Let me know if a bunch of rust and stuff comes out of it. The second thing I would like you to do, after the boiler refills with water. Shut the incoming water supply off, with the boiler running, open the valve on the bottom of the low water cut off and see if the boiler shuts down. If the boiler does not shut down, shut it down manually. Wait until the boiler has cooled completely down before turning water back on. If you do this to a overheated boiler you will shock it and cause catastrophic failure. Let me know the results, I will be back in touch with you.

Good luck
Rusty
 
#46 · (Edited)
Steam Heat

Hey Carrierman, nice to hear from you. I am at work now, but I have done that several times when the boiler has flooded. I open up the valve at the bottom of the low water cut off, and the water does come out dirty. As soo as the water starts coming out, the water feeder would kick on, but like I have said I have the water to the water feeder turned off. If the boiler doesn't get water, she won't start telling me the cut off is working but doesn't mean the float is good. Let me know what else to try? Thanks Carrierman
Do you want me to empty the entire boiler out, or just let some dirty water out and when it clears close the valve? I can do this when I get home tonight, but I have done this about a thousand times, almost got severly burned this weekend. Boiler was flooded again and needed to let water out, and it was steaming hot. Let me know what you want me to try in details and I will be more than happy to give it a shot. Again my thing is why is the boiler asking for so much water, when most of the time she doesn't need. I beleive a good working boiler should not ask for water 3-4 times a day. Thanks
 
#47 ·
Hi helplesshandyman

It is extremly crucial that when you open the low water cut off with the water shut off to it that the boiler shuts down. If it does not, there is no doubt that either the cut off is not wired properly or the float is stuck. Please make sure to follow the instructions I put in the previous post. I don't wnat you getting hurt or blowing your boiler up.

Good luck
Rusty
 
#48 ·
Carrierman, if I open the valve to flush the LWCO, the water feeder kicks in, (and since I have the auto feed off) yes the boiler shuts down, if thats what you need to know. The boiler does shut off if it doesn't sense any water, or if you open the valve at the bottom of the LWCO. Let me know what else, Thanks. Can it be the boiler itself? If she has the right amount of water she runs okay, but then again she is constantly asking for water, 3-4 times a day, sometimes even more, and no there isn't any leaks on the pipes ot shut off vaves on the radiators. They are all new. Thanks
 
#49 ·
Hi helplesshandyman

Now we are getting somewhere. At what point in the glass does the boiler shut down? This is crucial to determining the height that the boiler needs to run at. The other thing I need you to verify is the minimum low water level. There should be a tag on the boiler that specifies this. I need to know if the low water cut off is shutting down at this level or before. If before, I need to know in inches about how much. Keep in mind we are testing, this is not the way to operate the boiler. This will help us determine what to do next, don't give up and don't get hurt, I could not forgive myself if this happens.

Good luck
Rusty
 
#51 ·
Okay Carrierman, look all over and no place did it state water level, the only thing I saw was BTU 114,000, Steam BTU 85.500, and Water BTU/HR 99.100

Glass height is 8inches, before I started the boiler water level was 4 1/8 in height. When I let her steam for a while, and then shut the water to the water feeder and open the LWCO ball valve, she starts to ask for water the minute I open that valve. After a few seconds she shuts off, even if the water glass level is at 3 inc. As soon as I close the valve she fires back up, so it was hard to tell when she cuts off, because she basically shuts down if you keep the valve open.

I let her run for a while, and then I shut her down because she was gussing water at the radiator on the first, last one on the supply line. I kept her off, and before I left checked the glass and it was at 5 inc full. This tells me that water is comming back to the boiler, from condensation. I know the main has to be pitched away from the boiler, towards the return, they say 1/4 on every 10 ft. Should I pitch the main more, this way maybe the water will come back to the boiler faster, and she won't ask for so much water? I noticed when she ask for water, if I don't feed her she'll shut down, condensation comes back and she fires back up. I think I have to really pitch that supply line more, but its sure not going to be easy.
 
#52 ·
Okay Carrierman, here we go. She shuts down at 1/2 from the bottom of the glass, but she is constantly asking for water. She ask for water at 1inc, 2inc, 4inc, this is whats driving me crazy. If I feed her water, she will flood. I was looking at the LWCO and it has the center marking line, if you know what I am talking about, it lines up straight with the glass at 1/2 inc. Let me know what else you need, I think the LWCO is not the problem, but I ordered it already and it should be here anyday. I received the water feeder today, but I beleive that is not the problem as well. I'll be waiting for your response, before I install anything. I can always sell them if I don't use themThanks
 
#53 · (Edited)
Hi helplesshandyman

It sounds like to me that the LWCO is piped at the proper height. It sounds like the float may be flooded or the arm is bent. Never the less, change the LWCO and it sould fix your problem. You will want to set the water to come on at about 1" to 2" and shut off around 3" in the glass. Let me know if I confused you.

Rusty
 
#55 ·
Hi helplesshandyman

I was just speculating that the float is actually bad. But it could have a brass float in it. What generally happens to flood the float is over a period of years it rubs against the side of the cast housing and rubs a small hole in it. The air comes out and the water goes in. Of course when this happens you cannot control the water height. As far as placement I believe you will be ok on height. I went back and looked at the pictures a little better. I think you will be fine just replacing the low water cut off.

Good luck
Rusty
 
#58 ·
Thanks Redline, No I did not add extra supply or return lines to the system. All the radiators are all brand new, (3-cast iron, and 4- steel metal heat elements) and I just replaced what I took off. Now when you say are they any radiators installed below the loop, do you mean below the Supply line? You got me thinking now, I have one that is the one on the end, the pipe that feeds this radiator is tap to the supply line but at an angle, because the beam did not let us tap to the supply line from the top. Will this be causing the water to come out of the radiator? I always thought the supply should be carrying only steam not water. I have to get this going, its going to be in the 10's tonight and I still haven't received the water cut off. Also, the radiator at the end of the supply line, the one that the pipe feeds it at an angle, if I shut that one off, the water reaches the second floor radiator, and it starts to spit and gush water out, yes gush water out.
 
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