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205HVAC 12-13-2011 05:27 PM

Standing Pilot Furnace
 
I have a standing pilot furnace and the pilot is very weak to reach the thermocouple. The thermocouple has bee tested OK. I am not able to take off the pilot assembly to clean tubing that connects to gas valve. If the gas pressure low would that be the reason for my weak pilot flame? Also, the pilot adjust screw is already set at the max; and the gas valve only have an output test port.

yuri 12-13-2011 05:32 PM

orifice inside the pilot burner is plugged up. 95% of the time it gets damaged when you try remove it but some are cleanable. to avoid callbacks I would replace the pilot burner.

205HVAC 12-13-2011 05:39 PM

Do I need a particular pilot burner or will a universal one from the supply house will work.

yuri 12-13-2011 06:14 PM

need a particular one. there are right hand/left hand and center shot types etc etc. what is the brand and model # of the unit? some are getting obsolete.

how 12-13-2011 06:35 PM

Hey Yuri, Iv'e heard you say this before and it puzzels me small brain.
30 years of big fingered repairs have never resulted in me damaging a pilot orifice? Just what method are you using to remove the orifice?

Hey 205HVAC
How was the thermocouple tested? What was the tester's idea of OK?
If you can't remove the pilot assy then getting a new pilot assy won't help you But if you are at the stage of calling someone in to do it for you then there is one more thing to try.
Take a large screwdriver and bang the base or the body of the pilot assy like you were knocking on the front door. Don't be gentle but don't hit the thermocouple or pilot tube. Do this while the pilot gas is going through the pilot assy. Often this will clear the debris in the pilot assy or pilot orifice and you will see the pilot flame substantially improve.
You've got nothing to lose in trying.

yuri 12-13-2011 06:47 PM

Mostly they get that ash buildup stuck between the orifice and body here and that seizes them in. Natural gas is not the same all across Canada and the US so ours may burn different than yours. Mostly those HWell Q314s are what I run into but the heat seems to get them stuck too. I would hate to see a poster collapse one and end up with no heat. A Pro knows or should know how to finagel them out.

how 12-13-2011 07:14 PM

Hey Yuri
I don't see much ash here binding the orifices. Heat..Yes.. or moisture from those foolish enough to turn off their pilots in the summer. Out here if they have rusted closed we can often clear the orifices from the underside with my favourite orifice clearing tool...EAC wire.

yuri 12-13-2011 07:26 PM

clever idea. :thumbsup: pilot lites are less than 5% of what I see nowadays as most people have a high and even mids are fading away.

you also don't see -30 to -40C where U are. 3 months of rain but at least it is warm water.:laughing:

biggles 12-13-2011 10:26 PM

testing a thermocouple you remove it put an outside flame on it(stove,lighter) and read the screw down end with a millivolt meter..the pilot assemble holds the TC in place by push in locking ferrel or nutted to a fitting

how 12-13-2011 11:58 PM

The purpose of my" how was it tested question" was to see if it was a closed thermocouple test or the open one that Biggles described. The open test only answers 1/2 of the question of a thermocouple being "OK", whereas a dropping closed test also shows the responding gas valves electromagnetic strength. Getting both sides of that equation gives a much more complete answer for why a pilot is going out.

primemover 12-15-2011 12:16 AM

205HVAC,
I know you did not ask this question but I wonder if:

-Is it time to upgrade your furnace
-If no, have you considered replacing your current valve/continuous pilot with an Intermittent Pilot Retrofit Kit?

http://www.honeywell-thermostat.com/...6006manual.pdf


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