Go Back   DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum > Home Improvement > HVAC

CLICK HERE AND JOIN OUR COMMUNITY TODAY...IT'S FREE!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 10-20-2011, 09:20 PM   #1
Newbie
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 4
Rewards Points: 10
Default

Slant fin GG125 hot water radiator issues


OK, so i;ve looked at numerous posts here and have almost fixed my problem.

i turn off the gas to my furnace each summer.

This summer an upstairs radiator was removed for renovations and the system drained. Radiator placed back in the system and i just turned everything on and nothing happened.
Eventually tracked it to the emergency on/off switch being off so no i can get the furnace to turn on and heat up.

However, my problem is that the system is pretty empty of water and i don't think the pump on the side of the furnace is 'cycling/pumping'?

I've been bleeding the radiators and those upstairs seems to be sucking air in. Those downstairs seem to be pushing air out and then stop pushing. I haven't actually got water to come out of them yet. Am i just being impatient? The pressure gauge on the furnace isn't reading anything. I've turned the heating off for now. Any suggestions before i call in the pros?

Andrewlocke is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2011, 09:46 PM   #2
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: pa
Posts: 4,453
Rewards Points: 2,220
Default

Slant fin GG125 hot water radiator issues


you want to make sure you have pressure on your guage so you can bleed system ...1 pound of pressure raises water 2 feet...you should have auto feeder to 12 lbs......yes it can take awhile.....

ben's plumbing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-2011, 06:18 AM   #3
Newbie
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 4
Rewards Points: 10
Default

Slant fin GG125 hot water radiator issues


How do i make sure i have water pressure? There are two taps on the my water line, both of which are fully open [they are in series, they both need to be open].

Do i simiply turn on the bolier, let itheat and wait and then continue to blled over time?

I'm not sure what an autofeeder is?

Thansk for the fast response.
Andrewlocke is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-2011, 08:12 AM   #4
Member
 
biggles's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Long Island
Posts: 3,630
Rewards Points: 2,000
Default

Slant fin GG125 hot water radiator issues


the auto feed "painted red" control adj stem with a lockdown nut set at 12PSI is located on the cold water make up into the boiler,you should bleed the highest point of the system with the boiler off and the pump/circ off just let the incoming feed water push the air out all the way around the system.if you have case iron radiators might want to slip a sheet of foiled backed styrafoam into the backs it will reflect the heat out into the room and away from a cold wall ...if you have radiator covers
biggles is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-2011, 08:26 AM   #5
Newbie
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 4
Rewards Points: 10
Default

Slant fin GG125 hot water radiator issues


I think i know what you mean by the auto feed, i've never touched this ever so it should not be different.

HMM, i will have to try this but when i tried this with everything off [before switching the boiler on], it actually sucked in rather than air being pushed out [at highest point].

When i tried the same thing with the boiler on, air did start to get pushed out of ther system, it was just very slow.

They are cast iron radiators, heavy as hell, i do have about half of them under radiator covers the others not yet.

What a pain, want to try to fix it before monday and then cancel the service call out from the pros.
Andrewlocke is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-24-2011, 07:10 PM   #6
Newbie
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 4
Rewards Points: 10
Default

Slant fin GG125 hot water radiator issues


OK, so the pro came around, seems the valve that prevents water back flowing out of the system is broken and would not let fresh water into the system at all.

Had to hook up a garden hose and pump water in via the boiler drain valve.

Any idea how much it should cost to replace the back flow preventor valve? I think that is what it was called? They are quoting ~$450-500 to replace it, seems very expensive.

Andrewlocke is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Cold water is warm - hot water leak under slab? Homerepairguy Plumbing 9 10-13-2010 08:17 PM
Oil fired furnace and hot water heater question steveinpa Plumbing 3 08-10-2010 08:42 AM
Well Water snuggles2010 Plumbing 3 04-13-2010 01:36 PM
How Do I Properly Shock Chlorinate a Water Softner classicflytyer Plumbing 5 07-14-2009 12:15 AM
Low Hot Water Pressure btennant Plumbing 4 12-09-2008 09:31 PM




Top of Page | View New Posts

Copyright © 2003-2014 Escalate Media. All Rights Reserved.