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Old 12-29-2012, 07:05 PM   #1
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Shed AC/Heat


I have a 10x12 shed, 9ft high ceiling. Approximately 120sq. feet.

It is un-insulated for the most part, but I have insulation and caulking around the thin metal eaves around the top, since they were always thin and drafty. Doors are weather sealed with stripping, No drafts at all now. I don't plan on insulating it much because I can't put drywall up. It's already surface wired with electric, and I use the spaces in between the 2x4's for long length items storage. Has blinds for the summer, and part shaded. Also has vinyl flooring and carpeting.

I had a ghetto rigged 5200 btu unit last year and it cooled the place down a decent amount about 20*F. It had a box built around the back with an exhaust hose out the window. But that was a garbage picked unit that I gave up on repairing every day....it had compressor issues.

Window units are out since my mini windows are only 15" wide. Nor do I want a huge hole in the wall, because it will be pure hell to find an exact replacement if a through wall one fails.

I'm looking for a decent heater/air conditioner combo for the place. Either a decently priced DIY mini split or a portable unit. Are the heat pumps in AC units better for heating? More efficient and powerful? I have a hard time beleiving a 900w consumption unit with a heat pump will warm up 300sq feet, when a 1,500w ceramic or element space heater can barely warm up 90sq feet.

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Old 12-29-2012, 09:38 PM   #2
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10 by 10 wood shed with a 6200 btu window ac keeps the place very very cool in the summer and it even cycles on the hotest days. The shed is insulated with r13, walls roof and floor. As well as super sealed with caulk on each wall stud and all openings (yes its was a lot of caulk!!). an 8 pane french door and a 4 by 6 single pane window and a 2 foot by 5 foot single pane arched window. These do let the heat in, but I use heavy shades on the inside with white linings. I did modify the ac unit with a 10 inch shelf between the supply and the return. I think that it really helped the air move in the shed and helps to keep the cold air from the units return vents, this no super cooling of the air.

I heat it in the winter with a 1200 watt ceramic heater that will drive you out of there.

I control it all with a johnson controles a419 thermostate relay system.

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Old 12-30-2012, 03:05 AM   #3
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A 900 watt heat pump can output over 9,000 BTUs of heat(depending on outdoor temp), where your 1500 watt ceramic heater will only output 5,100+/- BTUs.

You should at least insulate the ceiling, your losing a lot of heat through it. If the ceiling is 50 degrees warmer then the outdoor temp, your losing 6,000 BTUs of heat an hour through it.

If you want to use the cavities between the 2X4s for storage. You can still use bubble wrap as an insulation inside the cavities, its only 1/4" thick, but will help a lot in winter and summer.
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Old 12-30-2012, 03:34 PM   #4
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If I use faced R13 on the ceiling, and some areas of the non-storage use walls, is this okay to leave exposed without dry walling it? Since the shed is already surface wired, drywalling would be impossible. Nor did I want drywall because of the reduced storage space.

http://www.homedepot.com/Building-Ma...1#.UOCk729ZXoI
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Old 12-30-2012, 03:52 PM   #5
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It will help a lot. No harm leaving it exposed.
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Old 12-30-2012, 03:57 PM   #6
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WHy dont you cut in foil faced isocyanurate foam rigid board insulation between the studs? 1.5 will give you about R10
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Old 12-31-2012, 06:45 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seansy59 View Post
If I use faced R13 on the ceiling, and some areas of the non-storage use walls, is this okay to leave exposed without dry walling it? Since the shed is already surface wired, drywalling would be impossible. Nor did I want drywall because of the reduced storage space.

http://www.homedepot.com/Building-Ma...1#.UOCk729ZXoI
If using faced insulation it must be covered with drywall or paneling, the facing itself is flammable. Use un-faced or rigid foam board like (ISO) with the foil facing.
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Old 12-31-2012, 07:48 PM   #8
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Silly trying to heat and cool an uninsolated bulding.
Foam or faced insulation will both have warnings to not leave exposed.
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Old 12-31-2012, 07:57 PM   #9
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Well.....covering the walls is not an option...

Whether I choose fiberglass or foam insulation..

Which one is preferred/cheaper?
The only reason I was going with faced insulation is because I don't want fiberglass fibers flying around in the air.
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Old 01-01-2013, 08:44 PM   #10
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Anyone? An insulation that doesn't have to be covered?

I wouldn't be able to get drywall anyway, I only have a car.......I'm poor, barely have $175 put aside for the insulation

I'm even getting the 9000 btu portable AC from a thrift shop for $60.....
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Old 01-01-2013, 08:56 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jagans
WHy dont you cut in foil faced isocyanurate foam rigid board insulation between the studs? 1.5 will give you about R10
This sounds good
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Old 01-01-2013, 09:10 PM   #12
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Polyiso would be the way to go. But the pole barn industry uses a insulation board which appears to have a rigid fiberglass covering.

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