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Old 03-23-2009, 04:55 AM   #16
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Ruud Service Manual, Pros don't want me to understand my system


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I've measured the outside temp of the flue to be about 250 F. Seemed low to me - could be conducing heat so well that its misleading, so to be safe, I'd assume the true temp might be over 400 F.

Also, any good "hands" on books for HVAC. More of a journeyman type than technical (tricks of the trade).
An 80% with only a 250F flue temp? Problem there. mat be caused by crack in inducer housing. Is this unit vented out the side of teh basement?
If so, is there a power vent that the furnace hooks to?
If so, is there a barometric damper in teh flue pipe?

Jounyman books, are technical books.

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Old 03-23-2009, 07:57 AM   #17
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Change the inducer, it is unsafe and needs doing anyway and is affecting the draft and they slow down with age. RTV silicone is high temp and should be available at an auto parts store like NAPA.
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Old 03-23-2009, 10:18 AM   #18
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Change the inducer, it is unsafe and needs doing anyway and is affecting the draft and they slow down with age. RTV silicone is high temp and should be available at an auto parts store like NAPA.
Correct.

But, if its a side wall vent, without a power vent.
That may be what caused it to crack.
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Old 03-23-2009, 11:23 AM   #19
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I have changed dozens of them and they were made of bakelite and it was a bad idea. The new ones are cast aluminum. We stopped sidewall venting mids as it wrecks the siding.
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Old 03-23-2009, 03:10 PM   #20
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I have changed dozens of them and they were made of bakelite and it was a bad idea. The new ones are cast aluminum. We stopped sidewall venting mids as it wrecks the siding.
I like when I get a no heat call.

And have to explain that the inducer of an 80 isn't a blower.
And that the strong wind, is causing their no heat problem.
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Old 03-24-2009, 09:57 AM   #21
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This one is in the attic. Vents right to the roof (straight up about 5 feet. I was using a cooking temp prob and just touching the pipe (that was before it quit).

I'll be working on this a little bit each weekend. I'll look at the circuit board this weekend for code errors and try to see if I can confirm the pressure switch is ok before moving on to the inducer What's nice is that I have two identical systems, so I can watch and measure the voltages in the good one for comparison.

If I do fix it or dont fix it, I think I will still call in a tech. I really want to run a scope up the heat exchanger, since I dont think that was ever done. In the past the techs did maintainace when it was really hot and they wanted outta there as fast as possible, I have a feeling it never got scoped (and if your over 50 remember you need to be scoped too :-) )
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Old 03-24-2009, 04:12 PM   #22
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Looking at the new inducer, there is a fiberglass-like gasket on the case that bolts to the furance wall. Is that surface left as-is, or do you also put a coat of RTV seal on it. I'd assume no RTV since it has a gasket.
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Old 03-24-2009, 07:34 PM   #23
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Remove the old inducer, sand off the remnants of the old gasket with sandpaper, put a dab of RTV silicone on the furnace in several places so the new gasket won't fall off when you go to install the new inducer.
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Old 03-24-2009, 11:07 PM   #24
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Thanks everyone for the info.

Looks like $$$ posts are ok in this forum? I live in an area that seems to be sky high in service costs, so I'm always cautious of the work I get done. As mentioned, I have two identical furnances. Inducer crack in both. First one fixed by the original installers (and the biggest HVAC company in the area). New inducers $600 + labor (i can't remember the labor - that was sometime in 2005). Been eyeing online prices for the second one. Was about $250-$300, until recently found a place that was selling them for $100 including shipping - maybe the need for these old inducers is over and inventory is building up. Unopen box from the manufacture. Makes me wonder what the cost was to make the thing, $50 maybe $20.

I had a dryer cylinder on the AC come apart last summer. Clogged something in a piston at the coils in the furnace. Pumped out all the freon, welded new dryer in place, lost about a pound of freon, but didn't need any new since the Tech a year before put a pound in that wasn't needed in the first place. Mostly labor charge (regular hours - mid day, mid week), about 3 hours , ~ $650 Ka-ching. So anyway, I don't mean to offend the pros - I've been taken for a ride, so I'm trying to get a bit wiser.

Last edited by Ruuduser; 03-24-2009 at 11:09 PM.
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Old 03-25-2009, 08:28 AM   #25
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It is impossible for us to know the going labor rate in different areas of North America and comment on what people think is fair. A house where I am can be $250,000 and 3 to 4 X as much in other cities in Canada and half that in others. Wage rates vary from $15 perhr to $40 or more depending on the city so the rate companies charge varies proportionally. Generally Joe's heatem and cheatum just wants to sell a lot of units (thats where the $$ are) never answer the phone later to provide service. Smart consumers do their research, pay a bit more and deal with reputable companies.

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Old 03-25-2009, 08:47 PM   #26
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Yup,

When the cracks were found in 2005, the first thing I did was call 4 different companies for quotes on new equipment. All of them were about the same price (80%, two stage, variable fan, 16 Seer AC). Near 10K per unit ( little less for the garage unit, a little more for the attic) I decided to wait since it looked like maybe Seer 20 to 24 might be a possiblity in a few years (I was wrong). However, I did learn just how low they could go. One of them called me back after I turned them down (March time frame). The owner had no installs booked and wanted to put workers in my house badly (two units). Offered 3K off each. Unfortantly, he was a lennox dealer, and the smallest units Lennox made was 70K which were too big - I didn't want to be running solely in the first stage. Actually was a pretty good guy, he'd call the Engineers back at Lennox on every question I had.
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Old 03-25-2009, 09:20 PM   #27
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Outside of Rheem directly, I found this:

Doolin's Trouble Shooter's Bible: Air Conditioning, Refrigeration, Heat Pumps, Heating.

More in line with what I was looking for.
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Old 03-26-2009, 09:26 AM   #28
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Outside of Rheem directly, I found this:

Doolin's Trouble Shooter's Bible: Air Conditioning, Refrigeration, Heat Pumps, Heating.

More in line with what I was looking for.
UUHHH you better get another one. I bought that book 30 years ago and the service practices were real hacks.

Use Modern Refrigeration and hvac .
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Old 03-26-2009, 05:23 PM   #29
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You mean "beer can cold" is not an acceptable charging method?
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Old 03-26-2009, 05:41 PM   #30
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You mean "beer can cold" is not an acceptable charging method?
#!%$% Canadian charging method! You guys like your beer too much!

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