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Ruuduser 03-21-2009 08:43 PM

Ruud Service Manual, Pros don't want me to understand my system
I'm looking for a Ruud service manual for Ruud 80% Gas Fur (UGLG-05EAUER). Any leds on how to get one (online would be good) would be appreciated.

Once I mention I'm just a homeowner or DIYer, I get no help on tracking it down. I just want to understand the system and error codes. The sky high prices I've been charged for ignitors installed by high school kids makes me want to take the time to understand my system.

I'll never understand why the pros are so protective of their field. I'm sure if they were told they could not change a spark plug in their car and to get a pro they'd throw a fit, yet they have no trouble thinking I should not be allowed to do anything but change my filter on my HVAC, let alone ask how something works.


beenthere 03-21-2009 08:47 PM

Funny thing is, I pay to have the plugs changed on my car and truck.

You may be able to find the installation manual for your furnace on line.

It will have a trouble shooting section.

You also should have the LED error code chart on the inside of the blower panel of your furnace.

Yoyizit 03-21-2009 08:52 PM

Bryant sent me a factory manual for free for my 83% eff. furnace. Sequence of operation, schematics, spec's, the whole bit.

Speaking of protection, indep. auto repair shops have sued auto manufacturers for schematics, connector pinouts, etc.; I don't know if they were successful.

Plumber101 03-21-2009 09:03 PM

Here is a link to Rheem who makes Ruud

They are located in Ft. Smith AK. Give them a call and explain your situation. A few years ago I had the same proble for a customer of mine. They either transfered me or gave me another number to call. But I got the manual. Ask for the owners and installation manual. They are not the same.

Good luck

Ruuduser 03-21-2009 09:06 PM

Maybe its just me, but somehow asking questions on HVACs get the pros upset (probably didn't help were I posted my question on a different site) Not to say all pros are that way, the ones that help and educate are great!!!!

Right now, we're just out of the heating season and one of my furances will not fire. Since I'm in no hurry to fix it (will not need heat until Oct - AC works fine), I thought I try the simple stuff. Ignitor was ok (not an open circuit) even tried a new one. I think its the pressure switch, so I'm trying to understand how it works. I've learned that I can't simply jump it to check it, since it appears to NOT want to be closed prior to startup - Anyway, just trying to fingure out whats busted so if and when I call the tech, I can avoid a 4 hour labor charge on something simple.

Furance is old, so I thought it would be good to try to understand the whole system

Yoyizit 03-21-2009 09:22 PM


Originally Posted by Ruuduser (Post 248053)
one of my furances will not fire.
Ignitor was ok (not an open circuit) even tried a new one.
I think its the pressure switch

Most of us "speak" the Schematic Language so post one if you can get it.

With my Bryant and the manual, since '92 I have replaced the blower motor capacitor, the inducer motor and the hi-limit switch. I diagnosed a gas valve problem but had a tech replace it.

Plumber101 03-21-2009 09:23 PM

When there is a call for heat the inducer motor will start and a vacuum should be sent to the pressure switch. These pressures are measured in inches of water column. If you look at the switch it will tell you thew value somewhere. around 1.0 to 1.5 in wc +/- and a manometer is used to measure this value.

Check voltage to the switch and out of the switch. If you don't have voltage in/out you have either a switch issue internally of a draft issue. To check the flue for restrictions all you have to do is loosen and slightly remove the pipe off the inducing motor and recheck the switch for voltage in/out. Approx 24 Vac.

Heres the problem the real first step is to measure the vac pulled also known as neg pressure created by the inducer motor. You can jump wires all day, and if the inducer is not producing what is needed. A manometer is needed here as well.

So see some techs can help but as I have described it can get pretty involved..not like a spark plug. Some techs are a little protective

Just start with what I have told you .. checking voltages, checking restrictions in the flue.

What I do is right after the inducer comes on I jump the switch and if it make the ignitor come on then it is time to find out if it is a restriction in the flue, a bad switch, inop inducer or even a control board

I have had alot of rheems where the inducer was just not coming up to speed and where the drain has been clogged

Good luck

Ruuduser 03-21-2009 09:30 PM

Yoyizit - speaking about inducter motors, did you replace the whole unit or just the motor. I have a new one waiting to install (the original has a crack - composite design). The new one is aluminum. I was going to have a tech install it, but it actually looks easy to install; however, there is no gasket for the flue connection. It looks like there is a fiberous gasket of some sort on the inducer that's OEM in the furance. Did you seal the flue connection some how??

Ruuduser 03-21-2009 09:35 PM

Thanks Plumber101 - I've had a crack in the junk composite inducer for a long time, so I thought that the crack shouldn't be the problem. But after reading your post, maybe the crack was effecting the pressure for sometime, but now it finally put it over the edge. I'll try your suggestion (the jump after start) before I pull out the inducer. If it starts with the jump, I'll then put the new inducter in, then see if its starts - maybe could save me from changing out the switch. I need to figure out how to seal the inducer to flue before I tackle this.

Thanks guys

kennzz05 03-22-2009 01:45 AM

seal with red rtv silicone you can also substitute it for a gasket, sparingly

Yoyizit 03-22-2009 09:41 AM


Originally Posted by Ruuduser (Post 248066)
Yoyizit - speaking about inducter motors, did you replace the whole unit or just the motor.

Just the motor: $130 for the part.

Ruuduser 03-22-2009 07:17 PM


Time to stop paying for the simple stuff.

yuri 03-22-2009 08:03 PM

Some Pro's are not real good at communicating with people who don't understand the technical jargon we use. I have to work real hard to get to a base level with my apprentices. Just like anything else you have to shop around until you find someone who is willing to help you. You have got pretty good info so far. If you have a manometer your unit probably has a -.32 "wc pressure switch. Rheem/Ruud has a lot of failures with them. Not all Pro's are defensive, it is scary to hear what crazy ideas people come up with to solve problems. If I don't feel comfortable with a posters wording I won't get him hurt by giving him advice beyond what I consider safe.

Ruuduser 03-22-2009 09:41 PM

I need some education on red rtv silicone. Is red used to indicate a temperature range? I'm guessing it would be good to get something that can handle 600 F. I'm sure there are some rtv that are more for 200-300 F range?

I've measured the outside temp of the flue to be about 250 F. Seemed low to me - could be conducing heat so well that its misleading, so to be safe, I'd assume the true temp might be over 400 F.

Also, any good "hands" on books for HVAC. More of a journeyman type than technical (tricks of the trade).

Ruuduser 03-22-2009 09:51 PM

I don't have a manometer.

I've read where people suck and blow on the tube of the pressure switch to listen for it working - don't know if I want to try kissing that thing and getting man spit in there. I think I have an old syring that came with my son's baby advil. I could use it to put a constant vacuum on the switch.

I'm really starting to think that the crack in the case is doing in the vacuum. I was thinking of filling the crack with RTV goo before I go to the trouble of replacing the inducer (I have the new inducer, just collecting dust for the time being).

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