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KayMac 02-08-2008 01:01 PM

RPJ II Condensate Trap
I'm a first timer and hope someone can help with my problem. I have an RPJ II, Model # GUI075A012BIN that consistantly breaks down every few days. We've had the "brain" replaced, several flame sensors cleaned and/or replanced, the entire furnace cleaned, we change the filters every 6 weeks, and have even re-routed the exhaust so it goes up straighter. The fan speed has been lowered, but we still get water in the little tube that connects to the pressure switch. The furnace blower runs constantly, and the flame sensor lights up, the flames come on, but then immediately go out. I have to take the little tube off and drain the water, never very much, and then the furnace will run properly for a day or so, sometimes 2 if we're lucky. Once again I take the little hose loose and drain the water and then it starts right up. The t-stat is good. Is my problem the little hose (that hangs in a U) or the pressure switch, or both? We've had lots of repair people here and no one seems able to correct it. Thanks!

MechanicalDVR 02-08-2008 11:01 PM

Email Comfortmaker they have had several revisions in the design of those units in regard to that problem, it's been a while since I have worked on any ICP products. I believe they changed the hose and the mounting of the pressure switch.

KayMac 02-11-2008 01:43 PM

Thanks for your help! I'll definetly email them.

KayMac 02-15-2008 03:54 PM

Comfortmaker would not talk to me since I'm only a homeowner... I've had to call another repairman who who called Coleman and they say they have no idea what the problem is. The latest repairman is going to replace the fan motor and the pressure hose to see if that fixes it. By the way, he is from Consumers Energy (the gas company).

Buckeyetech 02-16-2008 03:25 PM

I'm not familar with that model without seeing it, but it sounds like the guy from Consumers Energy doesn't understand the firing order and/or doesn't know how to read a schematic.

Without seeing it, the basic order for most furnaces should be (1) The pressure switch has to be open. (2) the inducer motor comes on, (3) the pressure switch closes and completes the 24VAC circuit (assuming the limit, rollout switches and are closed and the drain is open (4) the ignitor heats up (5) 24 volts is sent to the gas valve while the HSI ignitor is on (6) burners light (7) flame sensor senses the flame (8) if the sensor is clean and sending the correct voltage to the board, the 24 volts to the valve remain. (9) if the sensor is dirty or sending a weak signal, the 24 volts to the valve is interupted and the furnace shuts down. It should try this a predetermined number of times and then goes into lockdown for a period of time.

sgthvac 02-16-2008 07:46 PM

Is the furnace level, is the PVC pipes sloped to the furnace, is your trap clean, also is your drain clean? yes, I agree the water in the tube is the problem. It is not the pressure switch. Just a thought, can you relocate the pressure switch above the inducer to cause the water to drain back into the inducer motor. I've had to do this a couple of times .,

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