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Old 11-28-2009, 08:08 PM   #1
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Replacing Inducer


I have an old Lennox vertical furnace where the Fasco (No. 7121-8774, 25J1201) motor has burned out. I see where I can purchase a new one for around $120.00 but don't have any experience in replacing it. It has a simple wire connector but I am not sure if it will pull straight out after removing the 3 nuts or if there is a trick.

Thoughts?

Thanks

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Old 11-28-2009, 09:10 PM   #2
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Post the complete model# and a pic of it with the front door off. I am a Lennox tech and they are not ALL easy.

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Old 11-28-2009, 10:53 PM   #3
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Yuri - thanks for the reply. Here are the pictures of the unit with more detailed information in regards to the model

http://www.flickr.com/photos/45085243@N04/
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Old 11-29-2009, 09:20 AM   #4
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Replacing Inducer


You need to remove the face plate that covers the inducer assembly on the G23. Lots of screws to remove but it's not hard.
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Old 11-29-2009, 10:52 AM   #5
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That is one model we never sold here. Is it the same inducer as a G16 Marty?
Here is a troubleshooting manual with some good pics for you cs . If you have a lot of patience you can probably do it.http://tech.lennoxintl.com/PDFs/9814a.pdf
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Old 11-29-2009, 12:27 PM   #6
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Don't believe it has the same part number yuri but wouldn't know for sure without looking it up on Davenet. Very few inducers have failed on those but the ones that did took about 20 minutes to replace. We do the whole assembly instead of messing around trying to get the wheel off the motor shaft.

CS, the three bolt you see are just motor mounts. Behind the face plate are another 4 bolts holding on the entire assembly. Inside the assemby is a wheel with a set screw holding it onto the motor shaft. All that has to be taken apart to replace the motor and the wheel must not get bent in the process. You are much better off buying the whole inducer assembly.

Last edited by Marty S.; 11-29-2009 at 12:33 PM.
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Old 11-29-2009, 12:34 PM   #7
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I always change the whole unit as the wheels gets warped from heat etc. We sold thousands of Whisperheats (furnace you love to hate) as it was very clever of Lennox to corner the market on a quiet unit instead of a noisy ventor fan type.

No problems with G71s so far and over 90% of our sales are them. Unable to sell anything under 90% efficient after Jan 1/2010 in Canada. Oh JOY. Lots of single piping G61s and electric water heater combos I can forsee.
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Old 11-29-2009, 01:24 PM   #8
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Do you know where I can find the entire inducer assy? does this include the wheel? I did the internet search for Fasco 7121-8774 and that is what brought up the motor for around $120.
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Old 11-29-2009, 01:25 PM   #9
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71's and xp19's are very popular here too. Between the tax credit,rebates and the local electric company giving $500 per ton on high Seer heat pumps it's cheaper to buy high end. Heck even I got in on that deal for my house. Went with the 61 though because they don't make a 71 small enough. October was the coldest one in over 100 years and the heating portion of the gas bill was $1.98
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Old 11-29-2009, 01:36 PM   #10
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Another quick question. Had a service person come out to confirm motor was the issue (as you can see in pics 1/2 is of coils are still copper, the other 1/2 are black) and now the unit is "off." I had turned off the heater yesterday morning when I smelled this problem but the thermostat was still on. Now I've checked the circuit box and that did not trip. The switch next to the unit is in the 'on' position and I can hear the power but the no power to the thermostat. Could he have switched off something on the acutal unit? On the circuit board that would affect the thermostat power?
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Old 11-29-2009, 01:54 PM   #11
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Try cozyparts.com and give them the COMPLETE model and serial# and ask them about the assembly with fan or order both parts and make your own. If you hear something it usually is the power transformer buzzing and okay. You may have a blown fuse or broken wire from R on the board to the thermostat.
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Old 11-29-2009, 01:57 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marty S. View Post
71's and xp19's are very popular here too. Between the tax credit,rebates and the local electric company giving $500 per ton on high Seer heat pumps it's cheaper to buy high end. Heck even I got in on that deal for my house. Went with the 61 though because they don't make a 71 small enough. October was the coldest one in over 100 years and the heating portion of the gas bill was $1.98
Too darn cold for a heat pump here. I here that Fujitsu is making a mini split heat pump for colder climates. Took a course on their stuff. REAL high end technology with a ECM inverter compressor etc. Great when it works and only the elite techs will work on it.
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Old 11-29-2009, 02:14 PM   #13
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Yuri - just sent a request to cozyparts.com to get me the model number of the entire assembly. thanks. I did notice under the bottom panel of the unit where the the blower compartment is located that there is a white and red wire not connected to each other or anything else. I traced the brown insulated cable that is coming from the ceiling (assuming this is power cord to thermostat) and it does not look damaged. Comes into bottom compartment and has multiple wires. One of which is yellow and it connected to a yellow wire (with a wire nut) on the cable which has these free floating red and white wires. I wonder, even though neither wire has any evidence of being twisted together if the two are related.

Also, yuri - how much time would it take you to replace this entire assembly? If i don't have the time I am wondering how much the labor will run me for this repair.
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Old 11-29-2009, 02:44 PM   #14
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I have never changed that one , Marty would know. Did not have that model up here. I would recommend you get a Pro to do it, not necessarily the last guy who may have broke your wires?? A ventor fan needs to be sealed properly and if not you can have CO in the house or pressure switch problems etc. Not as easy as it looks. Need high temp RTV silicone to hold the gasket in place and the wheel needs proper placement etc. I would allow 2 hrs. 1l2 for travelling and 1 1/2 to install it. Most companies will jack up their rate if you supply the parts or won't install them. We make our $$ on markup and have to provide a warranty from those funds. NO warranty if you provide your own. Such is life.
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Old 11-29-2009, 04:41 PM   #15
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CS , the few that I have had to replace took less the a half hour.

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