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-   -   Replacing hydronic baseboard (http://www.diychatroom.com/f17/replacing-hydronic-baseboard-4569/)

mountainview 10-30-2006 11:12 AM

Replacing hydronic baseboard
 
Hi All,

Can't believe I'm the first to ask this, but I searched and could not find any old threads. I need to replace a severely damaged baseboard radiator cover. A friend told me that I should be able to simply slide in a new cover over the tubing and fins. I was able to remove the old cover by bending the brackets over and taking them out, but I can't for the life of me see how I'm meant to get the brackets back in. Of course, my "friend" now is not so sure. There is only about 3/8" between the wall and the edge of the fins. Can it be done w/o replacing the pipe??

Silly question, I know--

Thanks for any help,
Jon

#CARRIERMAN 10-30-2006 06:59 PM

Hi mountainview

This really is not a stupid question, but to answer your question. When the baseboard heaters are installed the rear part of the cover is the first thing in place. You might be able to bend the mounts on the new one and get it back in place. But the proper way is to remove the water coil, install the mounting piece and reinstall water coil. You can try to bend if you want
to, but if it were mine I would take the time to do it right.

Good luck
Rusty

mountainview 10-31-2006 01:58 PM

Thanks,

At least I don't feel like such an idiot...

Now comes the next question-- whether I can do this myself.

I'm certain I can handle sweating the new connections and I know I can drain the system without screwing too much up. The question is whether I can refill the system w/o causing myself a big headache. I have a pretty simple setup: oil-fired boiler with four zones: three for hydronic baseboard, and one for a 40 gallon hot water storage tank. I'm novice enough that I can't give you too many specifics. We recently had the hot water tank installed during which our HVAC guy updated the system. So, I have an easily accessible manifold with valves (refill/drain?) for all four zones and what appears to be four separate hookups for hose attachments. I have an air scoop, but I do NOT have any bleed valves on the baseboards.

The question is-- what is the proper procedure for refilling the system after I've replaced the water coil??

Thanks again for any help,

Jon

#CARRIERMAN 10-31-2006 03:57 PM

Hi again mountainview

Sure you can do this yourself, It sounds like your HVAC guy did you a favor by installing iscolation valves. All you will need to do is to locate the valves to the baseboard heater you are working on and turn them off. You will have to cut the lines going to heater because with the water in it you will not be able to unsweat it. If you have room to you can use compression unions and save a little time. When you open valves back up to baseboard heater you will need to work with it a little bit. The easiest way to do this is hopefully you have ball valves, open the valve on the return side of the baseboard heater wide open, then open the supply side valve quickly. You may have to do this with the supply side valve several times to get all the air to move. Make sure your circulator pump is running the whole time you are doing this. Do not overpressure system! Once you have a steady flow of water to the baseboard heater you are working on, return both iscolating valve to the full open position. You may have to bleed some pressure off of the system to get air to move, let pressure reducing valve refill boiler by itself. If you have any further questions we will be happy to help.

Good luck
Rusty

mountainview 11-22-2006 01:28 PM

Thanks Rusty,

I've been away a bit and am just about ready to get going. Just a couple of clarifications--
If I have you right, I just need to get the "air bubble" moving and then allow the system to refill on its own.

But, now you've gone and scared me when you say don't overpressure the system. How would this happen and what do I do to make sure it doesn't happen?

When I bleed the system, should I expect to get most of the air out and just wait for a steady stream of water?

When I go to refill, it would make sense to me to keep the other zones turned off so I'm just purging the one. Is this right??

Thanks for your help,

Jon

#CARRIERMAN 11-22-2006 01:59 PM

Hi mountainview

Good to hear from you, did not mean to scare you. As long as you let the pressure reducing valve do its job, you won't overpressure system. What I was referring to is to turn the system on to straight city water pressure. The equipment may or may not handle the pressure, but there is never a need to find out. As far as the air, you should have no problem getting it to move.

Good luck
Rusty

iGotNoTime 11-23-2006 03:38 AM

As a side note I seen some killer looking baseboard radiant heat systems that are ultra thin and appear to be standard wood trim baseboard. You would never guess them to be the source of heat! They are a bit more costly than their gastly large thick cousins, nearly double the price, but if you demand to have a baseboard sticking out from your wall, it is much less of an eye sore.

The image is below and the link to one vendor is here.

http://www.hydronicalternatives.com/.../Baseboard.jpg


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