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Old 11-15-2011, 04:36 PM   #1
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Replacing Honeywell T822D-1255


Hello I am replacing a honeywell T822D-1255 with a Hunter Model 40120 my problem is my wires coming out the wall to the thermostat one is white and the other is red so I dont know witch wire is the RH 24volt wire or the W heating wire, now my thought is since I have the honeywell T822D-1255 hooked up I would think that it would have some marking on the back of the honeywell to say witch is witch and it doesnt do anyone have a manaul or diagram for this honeywell so I can determine witch is witch wire ..... also if any other suggestions to find out witch wire is witch I would appreaciate any help

thanks

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Old 11-15-2011, 04:43 PM   #2
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RED wire is the RH terminal,and the WHITE goes to W terminal..your only 2 wires there so if you put them together you would be simulating the stat callng for heat....

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Old 11-15-2011, 04:48 PM   #3
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Is this true even in a older home?? I was under the belief that the cables could be wrong... Also you said I could touch the two cables together to power up the boiler?? If this is true I can test it this way becuase the reason i am switching out the thermostat is is stop working and the first cheapest thing to replace or check.... I really appreaciate the help
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Old 11-15-2011, 04:57 PM   #4
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Replacing Honeywell T822D-1255


sure if its only 2 wires it just closes the 24V circuit even at the boiler the place the 2 wires land from the stat jump that and your doing that same simulation....could be the stat but if you jump at the stat subbase and it runs that proofs the wire drop to the boiler as true so it is the stat...if you had no run from the hall jump then you go down onto the 24V terminals on the boiler and jump that...it runs..that means there is a break in the wire run up to the stat i'll check back if your still wondering...what i'm telling you
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Old 11-15-2011, 06:04 PM   #5
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Replacing Honeywell T822D-1255


first thing to do is take the hunter back to HD (home depot) or were ever you bought it. They make wonderful ceiling fans............their t-stats suck. When you do get a stat (Honeywell or white -rogers) then make sure you set it up in the bios or through a series of dip switches for hydroponic heat. Many a home owners have been through what you are going through, they always replace the thermostat, then end up calling us out (usually at about 9 pm) anyway..........I wish they would just call us to begin with.
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Old 11-15-2011, 09:18 PM   #6
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Replacing Honeywell T822D-1255


last note on your stat change out if you ever want to go to a programable digital stat you might need a 3rd wire from the transformer on the boiler to power it up with a direct 24vs..just so you know...if you have spare wires up bt the stat then your safe to consider one....with just 2 wires there you would be depending on a battery to run it and need changng every year like a smoke detector....let us know what happen with the stat changeout or not
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Old 11-15-2011, 10:25 PM   #7
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Replacing Honeywell T822D-1255


I'm with HRIDER.
Get a quality stat (Whie Rogers orHoneywell)
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Old 11-16-2011, 06:50 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by harleyrider View Post
first thing to do is take the hunter back to HD (home depot) or were ever you bought it. They make wonderful ceiling fans............their t-stats suck. When you do get a stat (Honeywell or white -rogers) then make sure you set it up in the bios or through a series of dip switches for hydroponic heat. Many a home owners have been through what you are going through, they always replace the thermostat, then end up calling us out (usually at about 9 pm) anyway..........I wish they would just call us to begin with.
What's the difference? Does it stop calling for heat early before reaching the target temperature this way? I've got a white-rogers that is pretty basic and wanted to get something with some more pizazz on it like one of the higher end honeywell models - I realize that these things are chock full of features useless to me in a heating only situations - and assumed that it is just plug and play and they don't care if they're hooked up to a boiler or a furnace.
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Old 11-16-2011, 07:33 AM   #9
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Replacing Honeywell T822D-1255


if the home owner gets tired of constantly working the maual stat on temps a programmable would be worth it, with sleep/wake/leave return settings. she is going to need a C wire from that stat for a 24V constant at the subbase if she has no SPARES in the exsisting pull it's not worth it.new wire and the stat by a contractor $300 minimum....
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Old 11-16-2011, 08:43 AM   #10
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What's the difference? Does it stop calling for heat early before reaching the target temperature this way? I've got a white-rogers that is pretty basic and wanted to get something with some more pizazz on it like one of the higher end honeywell models - I realize that these things are chock full of features useless to me in a heating only situations - and assumed that it is just plug and play and they don't care if they're hooked up to a boiler or a furnace.

Yes, it all has to do with heat antisipation, and reaching the target tempature without over shooting it.
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Old 11-16-2011, 08:46 AM   #11
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Replacing Honeywell T822D-1255


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What's the difference? Does it stop calling for heat early before reaching the target temperature this way? I've got a white-rogers that is pretty basic and wanted to get something with some more pizazz on it like one of the higher end honeywell models - I realize that these things are chock full of features useless to me in a heating only situations - and assumed that it is just plug and play and they don't care if they're hooked up to a boiler or a furnace.
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if the home owner gets tired of constantly working the maual stat on temps a programmable would be worth it, with sleep/wake/leave return settings. she is going to need a C wire from that stat for a 24V constant at the subbase if she has no SPARES in the exsisting pull it's not worth it.new wire and the stat by a contractor $300 minimum....
biggles that is also so that the stat will run off of power from the furnace transformer, and not the batteries in the stat itself.
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Old 11-16-2011, 09:45 AM   #12
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Replacing Honeywell T822D-1255


electro mechanical use to run off a feed back from the call signal,but as the digital types started to sell a ton of home owners flipped them in all was well but the stat just sat there lit up with no action,and thats what the C side of a solid 24vs on the subbase is required for to run the electronics within.....if they have a spare on the bell wire hanging out of the wall for C side no problem if not ...$$$$

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