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Old 02-20-2014, 04:07 PM   #1
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Replaced Zone controller, no M2 terminal for dampers?


Hey all,

so I replaced my old Duro Dyne DuroZone SMZ zone controller with a new Honeywell TrueZone HZ322. The DuroZone had damper terminals M1 (common), M2 (hot) and M4 (hot on open??) (no M6) and was fully wired. The new Honeywell has M1 (common), M4 (open) and M6 (close), so there is no hot M2. I have two zones and both dampers have all three wires.

I don't know exactly what kind of (Duro Dyne) dampers were used; they are under the house and a pain to get to.

I believe the way the system was setup is Zone 2 is always open (that's the upstairs) and Zone 1 (downstairs) only is open when it calls for heat/cool. There are a few "dump" registers for pressure release downstairs and I'm guessing they are physically always open or it's possible they are held open by the Zone 2 when it calls for heat/cool.

So do I just use two of the three wires to the old Duro Dyne dampers and wire them for open or closed? Or may I have to short one of the hot leads for the damper to function? Or do I wire the two non-common wires on 4 & 6 depending on which way the damper is to go?

I'm going to go through the old bills and see if I saved the work sheet which might list the damper parts used (it was put in around 15 years ago).

Thanks in advance.

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Last edited by eelpout; 02-20-2014 at 04:12 PM.
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Old 02-20-2014, 06:37 PM   #2
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The durodyne dampers wont work with the Honeywell board.Did the same type of change out for a friend of mine and had to replace dampers also.You can use a two wire spring open power closed damper or power open and power close three wiredamper.

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Old 02-20-2014, 07:22 PM   #3
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You will need to configure the Honeywell Zone control for 2 wire operation and then connect the old Terminal M2 wire to R.

This diagram should help...


Last edited by Houston204; 02-20-2014 at 07:26 PM.
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Old 02-21-2014, 12:05 AM   #4
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Well, something popped the transformer after a few hours (before I saw any of these replies). At the time it went, the VisionPro 8000's 35% auto circulate was running I think.

I had the damper M1 connected to M1 & M4 connected to M4 (open), the old M2 wasn't connected to anything. The transformer dying may be unrelated. It was a Duron Dyne 24v 40 VAC transformer, same rating as Honeywell supplies so not sure what happened there. I did read elsewhere that hooking up the Duro Dyne's wrong can fry transformers.

Hmm, so we think their damper's should be able to work with the HZ322? So M1 stays where it is, put the old M2 directly on the transformer and M4 to M4 (Open) on the zone panel? OK, I'll try that when I get a new transformer in.

Thanks!
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Old 02-23-2014, 01:53 PM   #5
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I ran into this on a construction job a few months ago on a "beeper" call.
I didn't think that the durodyne would work with a Honeywell 3 zone control at the time either, and I had no literature for the dampers.

My shop located this literature and had a tech successfully connect this setup the following day.
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Old 02-25-2014, 04:40 PM   #6
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Well, replaced the transformer with Honeywell's own and it looks like what made the smell last week was the HZ322 itself. There is a burning circuit smell coming from it when it's connected to power and no indicators come on. Rats.

Anyone run across this before? Was working great for several hours last week and then it suddenly died like this. Could be some oddness with the dampers since they weren't wired 100% correctly (though I will say, the main R wasn't even connected).

Like I said earlier the only thing that was out of the ordinary was I was running one of the VP 8000 thermostats with the Auto Circulate fan option at the time it died.

Edit: I opened the HZ322 up and sure enough, something popped. Here's a pic of the popped component. Not sure what it is ( a cap? ) but it's right at the power terminals, which are to the left of it. I guess I'll talk to Honeywell about it, but I'm sure they'll say it was the DIY-er's error.

Strange that the HZ322 doesn't have anything to protect itself.
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Old 02-25-2014, 06:54 PM   #7
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BTW, the 24v transformer did blow too, so I'm guessing that it took out the HZ322 or visa versa.
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Old 02-26-2014, 09:51 AM   #8
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looks like a diode
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Old 02-27-2014, 02:10 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fy171 View Post
looks like a diode
Yep, I think you're right.

I haven't heard back from Honeywell yet, but I think they're going to tell me a 24 VAC transformer blowing and harming their equipment isn't their fault. Still would like to know what happened exactly, but probably will never figure it out.

Anyway, when I replace the HZ322, I'll put a circuit breaker between it and the new transformer to help this not happening again. Probably a 4 amp.

Do people commonly put a CB or resettable fuse between zone panels and transformers?
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Old 03-02-2014, 12:35 PM   #10
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Honeywell got back to me.

First, they were annoyed that places like Amazon sell zone panels to non-trade individuals, that was obvious.

they said they had never encountered a panel go like that. since the transformer went too, they're assuming there was a surge which overloaded the panel's power circuit. they didn't think it could have been the damper being wired wrong as the HZ series has protection and detection capabilities for that and will notify the installer of shorts through the LEDs. I never saw such indication.

best guess is the old Duro Dyne transformer didn't handle the load well, even though its rating stated it should have been fine.

on my new panel (i'm out of pocket for both ) i'll wire in a 4 amp CB for protection.
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Old 03-04-2014, 01:49 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Houston204 View Post
I ran into this on a construction job a few months ago on a "beeper" call.
I didn't think that the durodyne would work with a Honeywell 3 zone control at the time either, and I had no literature for the dampers.

My shop located this literature and had a tech successfully connect this setup the following day.
thanks again for directing me to the correct schematic, old DuroZone dampers work like a champ with the (replaced) TrueZone.
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Old 12-09-2014, 05:02 PM   #12
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Honeywell Zone Board with Durzone Board and Dampers


Help--I'm doing all the research for my HVAC contractor.

I have a Bryant Plus 90i 2-stage gas furnace and electric A/C connected to a DuroZone DMX-SW board setup with 2 zones and 3 DuroDyne K 01192 and DuroDyne J 34222 dampers. It is controlled with two battery operated White-Rogers programmable thermostats. I often run just the fan to circulate air to even temperatures.

I want to install two Honeywell RTH8580WF thermostats-- or some kind of internet controller with smartphone access to settings.

Honeywell says I need a new zone board, they suggested one that looks like it's only for single stage heat.

My contractor doesn't think the DuroZone dampers will work with a new Honeywell board. He is also unsure the DuroZone board will work with the Honeywell Wifi thermostat.

I just want a Wifi solution where I don't have to pay for the contractor to experiment until he gives up without solving it. I'm not an electrical engineer, but it seems there should be a solution to this that is not very expensive.

Thanks for any and all suggestions.
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Old 12-10-2014, 07:05 AM   #13
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You will have to change out the zoning board to the honeywell truezone hz322 and follow the instructions above to get it to work the Duro dampers. As for wireless and wifi operation, I know the honeywell prestige 2 iaq system will work with the hz322 board. It is an internet accessible stat and handles multistage systems and does mate up with the hz322
Bare in mind however that it will not be a cheap solution.
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Old 11-29-2016, 09:23 PM   #14
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Re: Replaced Zone controller, no M2 terminal for dampers?


Sorry for posting to such an old thread, but I'm new and can't send a private message.

Eeelpout, Hello. I'm new to the forum, and was hoping you could spend a few minutes to advise me based on your previous posts. I purchased a couple of Nest thermostats (Black Friday deals) and I'm now replacing my DuroZone controller with an HZ311. I don't want to run into the same issues you encountered, and was hoping you could give me some advice on wiring the dampers. There are three motorized dampers on each zone, and I have the DuroZone 40VA transformer.

I should receive the HZ311 in a day or two. Any chance you could share a photo or two of the wiring at the controller and damper motor to make sure I don't screw it up?

Thanks for the consideration,

Dan
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Old 12-01-2016, 12:12 AM   #15
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Re: Replaced Zone controller, no M2 terminal for dampers?


Quote:
Originally Posted by NEWFOZ View Post
Sorry for posting to such an old thread, but I'm new and can't send a private message.

Eeelpout, Hello. I'm new to the forum, and was hoping you could spend a few minutes to advise me based on your previous posts. I purchased a couple of Nest thermostats (Black Friday deals) and I'm now replacing my DuroZone controller with an HZ311. I don't want to run into the same issues you encountered, and was hoping you could give me some advice on wiring the dampers. There are three motorized dampers on each zone, and I have the DuroZone 40VA transformer.

I should receive the HZ311 in a day or two. Any chance you could share a photo or two of the wiring at the controller and damper motor to make sure I don't screw it up?

Thanks for the consideration,

Dan
The OP isn't likely active anymore. We can however help you in your own thread.... When we wake up, lol.

The wiring should be easy as pie as long as you mark all your wires before starting.

Cheers!

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